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Crystal Crag and Lake Mary
The icy waters of Lake Mary in California’s Mammoth Lakes Basin are a perfect reflecting pool for the unusual granite rock-tower behind.
California’s Eastern Sierras are a jaw-droppingly beautiful outdoor playground.
How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers).
July, when I visited, is the hottest month of the year in these mountains, but the air cools dramatically overnight. It was cold (about 8°C; 47°F) and dark when we got up on my second morning in Coleville. With our cameras and tripods in tow, we set off on a short drive and brisk walk to watch the sun rising over a river bend, high in the Sonora Pass.
Locals will tell you this is the best place in California to live. Mono County is more than 50 times less densely populated than the state as a whole, and clearly appeals to a younger demographic (see: Towncharts: Mono). What it lacks in population, it makes up in unique outdoor beauty. Lee Vining, where we stopped for lunch, for example, is a locality of less than 200 people! But, being on the southwest shore of Mono Lake, near the east entrance of Yosemite National Park, and a short drive from the Bodie State Historic Park (see: Light, Lines and Reflections), it survives on tourism.
The town of Mammoth Lakes, with a population of just over 8,000, is more substantial – but still surrounded by wild beauty that is popular in every season. We spent that evening and the next several days based there before returning to Coleville (population <500).
This is arid country, with most of its precipitation falling as winter snows, so we had crisp, clear skies for our walks among the seasonal flowers. Do join us:
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A Bend in the River
Drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees cling to the rocky riverbanks here, where a low shutter speed slows down the racing waters. In the predawn light, you can just see the snow on the mountains in the distance.
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Pine Needles
Looking at the dried out needles at the end of these branches, you can understand how fires tore through this region in August-September of 2020.
Photographer in the Frame
Morning Sun on the Mountains
Just after six in the morning, a golden glow touches the mountains in the background.
Sun Below the Horizon
Finally! The sun breaks over the trees and sagebrush behind us.
“Prospector Pete”
This is mining country: silver ore was found in Mono County in 1862, and gold was discovered shortly after. The shop at the Whoa Nellie Deli, in Lee Vining where we stopped for lunch on our way to Mammoth Lakes, pays tribute to the old prospectors. (iPhone4S)
Afternoon in the Sierras
Once we are settled into our accommodation in Mammoth Lakes, we set out again on a late afternoon hike.
Trees in the Hills
The skies are clear and the air is hot and dry.
European Starling – Sturnus Vulgaris
I was so excited to spot some wildlife – until I realised it was an introduced common starling!
Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja
Wildflowers dot the hills and line the tracks.
Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss
White Wildflowers
I couldn’t find a name for these flowers – ironically, there is a picture of them in the Bishop California wildflower brochure, but even there, they are not labeled.
Natures Artwork
Gorse
As pretty as it is, common gorse is considered an invasive plant in California.
A Big Backyard
Even around housing developments, there is a real sense of space.
Stump in the Lake
Our last stop – late in the day – was at Lake Mary, the largest of the of the Mammoth Lakes.
Fly Fishing
The freshwater lake is popular for fishing …
Got One!
… for rainbow, brook, and brown trout.
Lake Mary from the West
We were there to collect a family member who was practicing for an ironman swim in the mile-wide waters.
Boat on Lake Mary
On the last day of our stay in Mammoth Lakes, we made another trip to Lake Mary – this time in the early morning. The lake has two marinas, and little rented kayaks were already out on the water. (iPhone4S)
Crystal Crag
At 3159 metres (10364 feet), the granite rock tower on Crystal Crag is a challenging, but popular, climb starting from nearby Lake George.
Kayak on Mary Lake
We opt for more sedate activities.
Kayak Colours
There are plenty of rentals available if you don’t have your own boat. I love the colours and patterns they make in the almost-still waters.
Lake Mary Stillness
Our endurance swimmer, in his full-body wetsuit against the cold, hardly disturbs the morning peace. (iPhone4S)
California Milkweed (Asclepias californica)
Later, as evening falls, we are back in Coleville for a last walk …
Moonrise in the Eastern Sierras
… and to watch the moon rise over the surrounding hills. (iPhone4S)
I live at sea level these days, and my morning walks are mostly on the flat, so walking in the Sierras where our starting-points were between 1600 – 2900 metres was a challenge!
But, it was well worth the effort.
I’m so glad I have the photos to look back on: with our Australian borders locked down tight, it will be a long time before I get back there – or anywhere else!
Happy Travels …
Photos: 15 and 21July2013
[…] with a fellow-photography-enthusiast at her home in Mammoth Lakes, in Mono County California (see: Waters and Wildflowers). Well known as a winter skiing base, the town also provides easy access to nearby summer […]