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Ruta de las Agüeras
Walking trails criss-cross the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. Some of these ancient routes are the pathways of medieval saints; most connect old villages; and one we found even lead us through a landscape of magical Cantabrian characters.
There is something about a European woods that lends itself to cautionary tales of faeries and ogres. Away from the densely populated modern cities, there are still mountains where wolves might dwell, and winding forest paths that have been used for centuries by pilgrims, saints, and ordinary travellers.
In the days before telecommunications, this network of pathways was the only way of disseminating goods and information between towns. Today, the pathways are still used for recreation, and as a means of getting in touch with nature and with the past.
Although I’m getting older and lazier, I still love a walk in the wilds – especially through new terrain. That – and my New Year’s resolution to study a language – was what attracted me the Peak Me language school, located in Panes, in the north of Spain. When the world is not locked down by Covid-19, this school offers a “Walk-and-Talk” program of morning Spanish language classes and afternoon hikes or adventure activities with their partners at Canoe Adventure Trophy.
Unless you remember one of my previous posts from this area (see: Ruta Alevia), you’ve probably never heard of Panes, a tiny parish of 568 people in the Peñamellera Baja in Asturias. This delightful town is well situated within easy reach of the spectacular Picos de Europa mountains on one side and the stunning Atlantic coastline on the other. The local residents and businesses integrate with the language school, and cheerfully tolerate a small but steady stream of visitors with questionable Spanish skills.
Some of our group had complained of aching joints after our mountain climb (see: Ruta Alevia) the day before, so our guide selected a gentle seven kilometre meander for our second day’s outing. After our morning’s intensive class, we travelled a short distance to the region next door – to Cantabria – where we started our walk from the charming village of Cicera. Following a section of the medieval road from La Hermida to the villages of Alto Peñarrubia, we came upon the very modest Hermitage of Santa Catalina, in use in the 17- and 1800s.
We then turned uphill onto Mount Hozarco, where the beautiful deciduous Atlantic forest of oaks, beeches, and chestnut, was populated with hideous creatures apparently common in Cantabrian folklore. From there, we turned back downhill towards the spectacular Hermida Gorge, following the Las Agueras – a route that gets its name because the two ravines it links: the Navedo and the Cicera, have flowing water throughout the year.
Do join me!
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Camino Signposting
Brick streets, stone buildings, and mountains lost in mist: Cicera is a traditional Cantabrian village. But, as a nod to modern times, that signboard has a QR Code!
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More Signposting
In theory, it should be impossible to get lost! Still, I was happy not to be walking alone as the mists surrounded us and the rains threatened.
Rooftop in the Rain
Every Spanish town has a Catholic church: the clay-tiled roof of Iglesia del Carmen reaches up into the rainy sky.
Iglesia del Carmen
The old stone building is quite lovely, …
Cicera
… as is the pretty town below.
Pastoral
Nothing says “countryside charm” like sheep on a wet hillside!
Rosehips
Hermitage of Santa Catalina
I actually found this cracked and ageing information sign …
La Ermita de Santa Catalina
… far more visually interesting than the 17th or 18th century shrine located here.
Vivi and the Signpost
Although we were meant to be practicing our newly-learned Spanish, our guide Vivi took pity on us, …
Mythological Path of Mount Hozarco
… and explained, in English, about the magical Cantabrian characters who traditionally shared these woods with the local humans.
Ojáncana
The first figure we come across is Ojáncana, a scary creature with wild boar tusks, and dirty and matted hair. She comes out of her cave to eat lost children.
Arquetu in the Woods
Arquetu is a grumpy old man who takes care of those who have lost everything: he lends money to people foolish enough to go broke, …
Arquetu and his Chest of Gold and Silver
… but he will reprimand them first, and curse them to eternal poverty if they do it a second time.
El Roblón
This was my favourite of the creatures: the more subtle sight of a beautiful trunk of an old oak with arms and legs made of ash branches – with a lost child trapped within it.
Walkers in the Woods
As we turn onto la Ruta de las Agüeras, we walk into a beautiful beech forest, …
Stumps and Moss
… where it is cool and mossy, and soft underfoot.
Fungus on the Forest Floor
Mushrooms and all kinds of fungi thrive on the damp forest floor: …
Los Dedos del Diablo
… the most distinctive of these is the devil’s fingers. Also called the octopus stinkhorn (clathrus archeri), it smells like putrid flesh at maturity.
Nature’s Sculptures in the Woods
The natural trees here are as wonderful as those along the community-created Mythological Path.
Rushing Waters
As we drop down towards highway and the Deva River, a stream races down the hill beside the path.
Walking into the Gorge
The steep limestone cliffs rise up on both sides of us and the creek below, as we get closer to the Hermida Gorge either side of the Deva River.
More Signposts
Our path takes us to the edge of the N-621 highway which runs the length of the Hermida Gorge, and where our transport will pick us up and take us back to Panes.
I’m sure I learned a Spanish word or two –
and I certainly enjoyed the walk.
Until next time –
Happy Walking!
Photos: 24September2019
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