Wood Carving in the Ruins : Bungamati (2), Nepal

Woman selling wood carvings, Bungamati, Nepal

Selling Wood Carvings
In the historic Newari village of Bungamati, Nepal, people have lived as woodcarvers for generations.

Historically, the medieval Newar (Newari) village of Bungamati was known for its woodcarvers, its ancient temples, and its views of the surrounding mountains.

Bungamati is a tiny town of about 6,000 residents, sitting on a spur of land overlooking the Bagmati River at the southern edge of the Kathmandu Valley. When I visited, almost two years after the April 2015 Nepal earthquake, the main street of the village was still like a construction zone, with piles of rubble and buildings in states of disrepair everywhere (see: Manual Labour and Smiles).

I was in Nepal on a workshop with photographers Jack Kurtz (sadly, now deceased) and Gavin Gough, and was visiting some of the historic Newar villages in the region (see: Making Mustard Oil). We had the places we visited much to ourselves, as at that time the tourism industry had not really recovered.

Bungamati is celebrated as Kathmandu Valley’s long-established centre of wood carving, where skills and patterns have been passed down through the generations. Although the earthquake created a need to replicate traditional and elaborate doors, windows, and frames – especially on local temples and museums – people have been understandably preoccupied with clearing the debris and making their homes liveable again.

Even with these challenges, the people of Bungamati are still smiling, and many have picked up their hammers and chisels again to carve small items for sale to tourists (e.g.: Nepali Times: Reviving Woodcarving).

I was happy to walk among them, admiring their skills and handicrafts.

Carver in her Doorway
Carvers work in the street,with carvings of all types on display.

Carved Door
Old carvings, rich in religious symbolism, are all around, …

Old Bell
… as are intricately patterned temple ornaments.

Bungamati Buildings
After the earthquake of April 2015, buildings remain in states of partial ruin or repair. Stupas line the skyline.

Rubble
Hindu worship is central to daily life here, and the ruination of so many temples was as heartbreaking as the damage to homes.

Woman with a Picture
Life goes on on the front stoops of houses.

Shrine in the Ruins

Buddha in a Shop
Religious iconography and handicrafts …

Wall Carvings
… are available in the shops that line the street.

Grandma and Grandchild
I have found that having photos of my grandchildren handy on my phone is a great conversation-starter – …

Kohled Eyes and Smiles
… even though we have no language in common.

Bungamati Street
Rubble and ruins are everywhere I look.

Lions in a Courtyard
Bungarati is the birthplace of Rato Machhendranath, and the deity lived here six months out of the year. While the mythical-lion temple guards survived the earthquake, the Rato Machhendranath Temple and the Shikara-style pavilion that housed the deity were ruined.