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Western Highland Woman
Proud, fierce, and carrying their weight in valuable shells; the Highland women of Papua New Guinea can hold their own!
The grassy fields outside the Mt Hagen Showgrounds were dotted with clumps of people gathered around jars of body paint and suitcases full of precious feathers. In the Western Highlands of Papua New Guinea, the annual Mt Hagen Cultural Show was soon to start, and tribal performers from all over the neighbouring Highlands provinces – and even some from the coastal regions – were preparing their unique costumes.
I was excited!
I had attended the Paiya Village Mini Show the two days previously, and had watched a number of performers get ready for that (e.g.: Paiya Village Mini Show), but the long-standing Mt Hagen festival is much larger, and was expecting over 70 cultural groups. Several of these were in front of me, in the morning paddocks, going through the painstaking process of constructing their traditional outfits.
It was overwhelming! So many groups and so much colour!
I decided to focus first on the Western Highland women, and spend some time with them as they layered on their heavy shell necklaces, fashioned skirts out of long leaves, constructed elaborate feathered headdresses, and painted their faces in bold red, white, and blue.
In some ways it reminded me of the days when my daughter was dancing in concerts and eisteddfods: we would arrive early at some strange school auditorium or gymnasium and, grouped together with the rest of her troupe in a corner or a hallway, go through the arduous job of combing-out and hair-spraying curls, re-applying makeup, and conducting quick, between-routine costume changes.
Unlike our costumes, however, the leaves, grass, feathers, and paint these women were applying to themselves and each other represented age-old community traditions, that are today reserved for sing sings, these regular tribal gatherings of dance and song.
Join me!
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Outside the Mt Hagen Show Grounds
The fields outside the show grounds are a hive of activity as people prepare for their performances.
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Western Highland Woman
The bilum hat, traditionally made by looping or crocheting plant fibres or cotton, provides the foundation for the feathers which will be added later.
Shells
We are a long way from the ocean – especially considering the jungle-clad, mountainous terrain and the absence of arterial roads. These shells have been traded for, and are considered precious.
Helping the Child
I love watching the children, as their elders help them take part in age-old traditions.
Western Highland Child
Necklace Detail
Woman in Shells
The smiles are infectious.
Kina Moka Shell Shields
Today, these highly valued breast plates are symbolic; …
Woman and her Kina Moka Shell
… traditionally, they were used for barter. Papua New Guinea money is still called kina.
Western Highland Women Getting Ready
Like the women’s costumes, the building behind them is a work in progress. Change is coming slowly to these regions.
Suitcase Full of Feathers
Fortunately for the birds of paradise and the rare parrots in the mountains around here, …
Preserving the Feathers
… the feathers that go into the ornate headdresses are carefully looked after between sing sings.
Hands at Work
Contemplation
Blue and White
Time has passed – the face painting is starting to take shape.
Fixing Feathers
And, the meticulous process of building the massive headdress begins.
Building a Headdress
Notice the traditional tattoos across this woman’s face.
Eye in the Mirror
Check the Mirror!
I’ve said it before: if I ever get to this region again, I will bring a bag full of hand mirrors: they are a valued commodity.
Helping
The day is heating up, and the start-time is drawing closer: all hands are on deck for the finishing touches.
Face Paint, Feathers, and Shells
Finally! In their full traditional glory, the women gather on the field, …
Party Time
… singing, dancing, banging their kundu drums, …
Western Highland Women’s Group
… and shaking their tail feathers.
Celebrate Good Times, Come On!
They certainly left me feeling happy – especially when they turned on an old walkman, and started dancing to Kool & the Gang!
It was indeed a celebration! A celebration of good times and old traditions.
I feel very lucky to have been a part of it.
Happy Wandering!
Pictures: 19August2017
[…] I was in Mount Hagen with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours. My fellow photo-tour participants and I were enjoying virtually unlimited access to groups as they prepared themselves and danced their way around and into the grounds (see: Western Highlands Women). […]