Winter and Winter’s End – Australia’s Snowy Mountains, Kosciuszko National Park

Looking over the Main Range from the Snow Gums boardwalk, Charlotte Pass, Australia

Looking over the Main Range
The Snow Gums Boardwalk at Charlotte Pass allows views over the top of Australia. Snowed-in during the winter, the boardwalk is accessible from early October – when snow still clings to the ground. In summer (January) the meadows here are bright with endemic wildflowers. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

The snows in the Australian mountains departed before I had a chance to ski this year. A warm front came through, and the season finished early. I even missed the opportunity for post-season walks; I often drive down for an annual meeting in October, but this year I had to phone it in.

As I have written before (see: Winter in the Snowy Mountains), Australia’s ski season is short and unpredictable. But, we are grateful to have one at all!

The aptly named Snowy Mountains in southeastern New South Wales are part of the continent’s Great Dividing Range. Being only a short distance from the coast, they attract a lot of precipitation which falls as snow most winters. What we now call the High Country was a summer meeting place for Aboriginal groups for thousands of years. European explorers visited in the early 1800s, and stockmen soon followed, grazing their cattle in the alpine meadows during the summer months. In 1859, gold was discovered at Kiandra (elevation 1,400 m – 4,600 ft). After a winter with heavy snow in 1860, three Norwegians built skis and introduced recreational skiing to their colleagues there. And so, the Australian Kiandra Pioneer Ski Club was founded in 1861 (see: Alpinestartgate)making it the oldest ski club in the world!

The Snowy Mountains are not very high when compared with mountains around the world; the highest peak, Mount Kosciuszko is only 2,228 metres (7,310 ft). Only the peaks in the main range receive consistent heavy winter snow, and seasons like this year, the light snowpack can disappear early.

To cheer myself up after missing my chance to get on the snow, I’ve taken a deep-dive into some very old photos from seasons past. They are mostly taken on old iPhones – unless I’m wildflower-walking in summer, I don’t usually take the cameras up the hill. 

Join me for some distinctive Snowy Mountain views.

Red eucalyptus leaves against a blue sky, Thredbo, Australia

Eucalyptus Tree Tops
In the Australian mountains and tablelands above 700 m (2,300 ft), beautiful snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) thrive. The new growth in early spring is red; I was once told this is to prevent sunburn in the pure air, but I can’t confirm that. (iPhone5 – 06September2014)

Spring cherry blossoms against a blue sky, Jindabyne Australia

Spring Blossoms
Just 30 minutes down the road, the little alpine town of Jindabyne sits at 915 m (3002 ft) and is in a completely different weather zone. Spring has well and truly arrived there while winter still clings higher up. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Raven against a blue sky, Kosciuszko Australia

Raven in a Snow Gum
The harsh cry of ravens always tell me I’m high in the Snowy Mountains. The region is home to the little raven and the Australian raven; I can’t tell them apart! (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Detail: knot in a snow gum tree, Kosciuszko Australia

Snow Gum Bark
Snow gums (Eucalyptus pauciflora) are beautiful, slow-growing trees. New bark is smooth with colours ranging from white to grey-brown with pink and yellow hues. It becomes more vibrant when there is a lot of moisture in the environment, and darkens with age, peeling in strips. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Snow on Spencers Creek, Kosciuszko Australia

Spencers Creek
Even in mid-spring, pockets of old snow remain in the cool corners where Spencers Creek and Betts Creek meet. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Heath and rocks on Spencers Creek, Kosciuszko Australia

Heath on the Hill
Low shrubs and heath survive under the snow all winter, bursting to life in spring. (iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Sparkly snow and spiky plants, Spencers Creek, Kosciuszko Australia

Sparkly Snow and Spiky Plants
(iPhone5 – 18October2014)

Scarlet robin, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Scarlet Robin – Petroica Boodang
On a walk over the off-season ski hills at Perisher Resort, we spot a small Australian robin. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)

From the Track to Blue Cow
The Ski Tube used to run all summertime, bringing hikers up to the meadows around Blue Cow.  Now that you have to walk up the hill, the off-season resort is almost deserted with only the sounds of nature to be heard. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)

Boulders in the snow, Blue Cow, Kosciuszko Australia

Rocks atop Blue Cow
The almost-empty ski resort looks very different with only pockets of snow left. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)

Fence covered in lichen with a number 43 on it, Blue Cow, Kosciuszko Australia

Fencing on Blue Cow
At 1900 m (6234 ft), much of Blue Cow is above the treeline, and is exposed to the elements all year round. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)

View over snow dusted mountains from the trail to Blue Cow, Kosciuszko Australia

Gravel Track on Blue Cow
The walking track from Mount Perisher to the Blue Cow Ski Resort follows a service road that serves as a rolling green-run in winter. We return to our car the way we came. (Canon 5D II – 19October2014)

Running creek, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Spring Snow Fields
In winter, you can hear many of the small creeks gurgling beneath the snow; in spring, they rush to life with the snow-melt. (Canon 6D – 19October2014)

Haze and snow in the snow gums, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Snow in the Gums
Some years, there is fresh snow into spring, … (iPhone6 – 06September2017)

Haze and snow in the snow gums, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Chairlift and Snow Gums
… but it is coupled with appalling visibility. Still, with a season so short, you ski in whatever comes! (iPhone6 – 07September2017)

Detail: patch of snow on a gum tree, Kosciuszko Australia

Still Life Found : Snow Gum Trunk
(iPhone6 – 08September2017 )

Snow gum, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

The Weight of Snow
Commonly known as snow gums, cabbage gums, or white sally, the eucalyptus pauciflora is a compact tree whose branches twist with the weather. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)

Pretty Valley in Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

A Scattering of Skiers
Pretty Valley is well-named: it is a delightful bowl suited to all levels. (iPhone6 – 08September2017)

Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Top of the World
When I look out over the mountains to the end of snowscape, I always feel like I’m at the top of the world. (iPhone6 – 10September2018)

Trunk of a snow gum tree, Kosciuszko Australia

Wrinkles and Folds
I love the endless variations in the trunks of snow gums … (iPhone6 – 12September2018)

Trunk of a snow gum tree, Kosciuszko Australia

New Growth
… and the way new shoots sprout in seemingly random places. (iPhone6 – 12September2018)

Spreading snow gums with ice cover, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Historic Lodges in the Gums
From one year to the next, the ski runs – and the historic lodges tucked amongst them – look different. (iPhone6 – 23June2019)

Icicles on a tree branch, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Nature’s Artworks : Icicles
(iPhone6 – 24June2019)

Sun in a blue sky, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Touch the Sky
(iPhone6 – 25June2019)

Self-portrait and mountain view in a visor, Perisher Resort, Kosciuszko Australia

Almost Abstract : Visor Selfie
I always try to find someone with reflective goggles, to see what kind of self-portrait results.

Old bicycle, Jindabyne Town Centre, Australia

Bicycle Art
For me, the season always ends in Jindabyne, where I enjoy a coffee before driving back home. (iPhone6 – 14September2018)

I’ve grown to love those slopes, and their twisting snow gums.

I clearly have to plan my travel better next year, so that I don’t completely miss another season!

Until then –

Here’s to Winter!

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