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Johnstone Strait
Fading into the mists, a deep and narrow glacier-carved passage runs between Sayward, here on the east coast of Vancouver Island, and neighbouring Hardwicke Island and the British Columbia mainland.
It was meant to be my reward: a road trip into new territory after an emotionally difficult period. So, I was driving north up Vancouver Island, off Canada’s west coast, in order to catch a ferry. This stop was merely a random pause – not a ‘destination’ at all.
Isn’t it often the way? The journey can take on more importance than the end-point. (Mind you, the intended goal was indeed phenomenal – watch this space!)
During my last rainy days in Nanaimo (see: Neck Point Park), I had booked accommodation in Sayward by phone: basing my choice purely on price and the distance between locations. So, I had no expectations when I pulled a short way off the North Island Highway and landed in a lush green valley, surrounded by mountains and tall trees that disappeared into dancing mists. Enchanting!
A mere ten minutes further on, I found the little village itself and the charming working port on Kelsey Bay – and stunning views over Johnstone Strait. The almost-constant rain was like a soft enveloping mist and only added to the ethereal quality of the landscape.
I was hooked! And became determined to get back there.
One day …
In the meantime, I can look at the photos and dream.
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Oyster Bay
I’ve stopped here before: the view across the Strait of Georgia to the snow-capped mountains on the British Columbia mainland always takes my breath away. (iPhone12pro)
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Driftwood
This is logging country, and everywhere you go, break-away stumps and weathered logs are washed up onto the shore like Nature’s own sculptures. (iPhone12pro)
Johnstone Strait
The next day, I grab the cameras and drive to the end of Sayward Road where there are views over Kelsey Bay and across the Strait.
Kelsey Bay Marina
This is a small but strategically-placed marina with both private and government facilities.
Provincial Park Sign
Historic Yorke Island is somewhere there to the north, accessible only by boat. Perhaps I can explore it some other time!
Mist in the Treetops
In the other direction the mountains rise steeply, with their tall Douglas firs swathed in the descending clouds.
Breakwater
The breakwater on one side of the small harbour is a stone wall; …
Old Ship on the Breakwater
… on the other side, old rusting hulls protect the small harbour from the busy log-booming grounds next door.
Coast Guard
During the summer months a Canadian Coast Guard Inshore Rescue Boat Station is located here. I watched as the small crew – all well rugged up against the cold – went through their pre-launch procedures and finally took their inflatable craft out on the water.
Moving Logs
The noisy timber yard is busy and fascinating to watch.
Cormorant Rock
A 2018 sculpture by Howard Lobb sits outside the yard.
Leaves on the Harbour
I leave the wet harbour behind, and go in search of a nearby walking trail.
Logs and Leaves on the Log Bridge
AllTrails leads me to the H’Kusam Bay Access Trail ….
Wet and Overgrown
… which, unfortunately for my boots and trousers, is muddier and more overgrown than I was led to expect.
Rubus Parviflorus
It is very early summer, so the indigenous raspberry-like thimbleberry fruit are not out yet. Fortunately, their canes reaching across the path have no thorns.
Geranium Robertianum
The wet ground is host to the introduced Roberts geranium.
Maple under Moss
In the tall, dark forest, grandfather’s beard (Usnea) drapes the trees all around me.
Salmonberries
Unlike the thimbleberries, the native salmonberries (Rubus spectabilis) are starting to fruit.
Salmonberry Flower and Fruit
Berries and shoots are still used by some Native American people.
Small Cedar – Large Cherry
The forest is a rich mix of evergreen conifers and deciduous trees.
Pacific Banana Slug (Ariolimax Columbianus)
I have to watch my feet: the under-used trail is home to many creatures.
The Bay in Sight
Finally! The destination is in sight below. But, I’m wet and running out of time, and according to my running app, I have already walked far enough to be in the middle of the bay!
Wet Fir
So, I turn around and make my way back through the wet woods.
Fern
Ferns of all types thrive in this wet maritime climate.
Forest Tangle
As I tread gingerly through the tangle, across boggy ground, I reflect that a little bit of maintenance would make this walk a LOT more enjoyable.
Elk Creek / Salmon Estuary
The next morning, a local took me around to visit other mist-enveloped sights. Thanks to local benefactors, and management by First Nations, government, and business interests, these wetlands around the estuaries into the Salmon River are protected in perpetuity. (iPhone12Pro)
Fallen Logs and Tall Trees
There was an elk across the river from us! It was too far away for the phone camera to capture, but I was thrilled: it was the icing on a magnificent landscape. (iPhone12Pro)
It was with some regret that I drove away from this little gem of a valley.
But, I’m determined to return – and perhaps make a better job of accessing the waterways and trails on offer! I might even put down roots.
Until then,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 01-03June2022
