Wat Sala Kaew Ku Sculpture Park, Nong Khai, Northern Thailand

Ornate Buddha heads, Sala Kaew Ku, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha Heads
At least, I think they are Buddhas! The concrete statues in the Wat Khaek or Sala Keoku (names abound) represent one mystic monk’s unique vision of the intersection between Buddhism and Hinduism.

It was like fever dream!

Anyone who thinks Buddhism is all sweetness, light, and Zen, hasn’t spent sufficient time in Asia. There, you will find many paintings and sculptures telling violent stories of historic battles between good and evil, and depicting truly frightening scenes from Buddhist Hell (eg: Two Artists; Contrasting Visions).

One of the most bizarre depictions of Buddhist and Hindu teachings that I have experienced would have to be the extensive sculpture garden of Sala Kaew Ku (Sala Keo Kou) outside the northeastern Thai city of Nong Khai. The garden – sometimes called a temple (วัด – wat) – was the vision and work of a venerable local monk, Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat (or Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat – spellings vary!), and his followers. According to Lonely Planet, Luang Pu told the story of falling into a hole as a child and meeting an ascetic who introduced him to the mysteries of the underworld. This set him on course to become a Brahmanic-yogi-priest-shaman, blending Hindu and Buddhist philosophy into his teachings.

Luang Pu developed a faithful following on both sides of the Mekong, and his first sculpture park was on the Lao side where he lived until the Communists took control in 1975. The 208 statues on the Thai side of the river – some reaching 25m (82 ft) – were started in 1978 and took 20 years to finish; they are meant to depict his dreams and represent the fantastical journey into the mind of a shaman. Luang Pu died in 1996, and his mummified body is under glass and surrounded by flashing lights in the sala (pavilion) on site.

I was there a very long time ago, and the photos from a long-forgotten camera have been buried on external disks. But, I have thought of them from time to time.

Most recently, they have come back to mind because of insects and yoga.

I recently spent some time at a yoga retreat in Australia’s Royal National Park; it was lovely, but I did come away with an inflamed insect bite of some sort on my abdomen. It made me think of my long-ago trip to Nong Khai for a yoga retreat, where I managed to pick up dengue fever (see: A Day on the Mekong). I don’t think I was yet symptomatic when I visited the sculpture park, but given the nature of the bizarre cement statues that surrounded me, I can’t be sure!

Join me for a weird walk:

From inside a Tuk Tuk: driver in the mirror and the streets of Nong Khai Thailand

In a Tuk Tuk
Many of my explorations start with tuk-tuk rides.

Giant brick Buddha at the entry to the Sala Kaew Ku sculpture park, Nong Khai Thailand

Buddha at the Entry
A giant brick Buddha with scissor-hands like Edward gives me a glimpse of what I’m in for!

Buddha and Text
Explanatory text abounds – but while I could read enough Thai to get around, it was never good enough for lengthy tracts of Sanskrit mysticism.

Sunglasses for Sale
Typical Thailand! You never know what bargains you might find!

Dogs and an Elephant
หมาเห่าข้าม ลภาษาเบราณ – “The dog barked across the ancient language.” I have no idea what that means, but apparently the elephant is calmly ignoring the gossiping dogs.

Tridents
Some of the sculptures are huge, with intricate details. These look to me like depictions of Shiva and his consort Parvati – but I can’t be sure.

Deity or Demon?
Some of the facial designs are reminiscent of the temple guardians common throughout Southeast Asia.

“The Time of Death has Arrived”

Ornate
Delicate faces sit high above decorated bodies …

Animal Face
… while ferocious creatures with weapons take captives.

Arms Against the Sky

Arms and Weapons Everywhere

Seated Bodhisattvas
Many Buddhas or Bodhisattvas are seated in contemplation in front of the pillars decorating the main pavilion.

Bodhisattvas in the Courtyard

Serenity

Bhairava Mudra

Overgrown
Parts of the park were a bit run down and wild.

Creature in the Park
In somes ways the overgrown nature adds to the charm.

More Arms – More Faces

Garuda and Bodhisattva
Some of the images nestle into the grass, …

Standing Buddha
… while others stand tall against the sky.

At the Feet of the Buddha

A Buddha Head

Another Buddha Head

Shelters on the Pond
Local families are out picnicking – sheltering from the oppressive heat in the pavillions on the water.

Buddha on a Coiled Naga
One of the tallest sculptures (25m – 82 ft) is a Buddha seated on a spectacular seven-headed naga (serpent deity).

Small Buddha in a Naga
The naga is revered as a guardian of Buddha, and appears in several forms around the park.

Battle Stories

All Seeing
Brahma is generally represented with four faces – but a number of Hindu and Buddhist Gods can also be depicted that way.

Enter the Mouth
Tunnel through the giant’s mouth to the Wheel of Life.

Seated and Reclining
Buddhas in all sizes and position are everywhere you look. Long stories are written in Thai and Isaan (Northeastern Thai dialect).

Ornate Back
Another naga winds up another Buddha in intricate detailing.

Budai
Frequently called the “Laughing Buddha”, Ho-Tai was actually a 10th century Chinese monk and Buddhist master known for his jolly nature.

Sala Keo Kou
A reclining Buddha overlooks the entry to the large, three-story pavilion that houses – amongst other artifacts – the mummified body of Luang Pu Boun Leua Sourirat, under a glass dome ringed by flashing lights. Fever dream indeed!