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Walkers in the Canyon
The hike through the Samaria Gorge, in the rugged mountains of southern Crete, is stunning – but exhausting. I was told it was 18 kilometres (11 miles) in length – but with the hills, and the extra walk to town, my walking app logged 32 kilometers!
I have a tendency to bite off more than I can chew. This is never more obvious than when I select walks to do while I’m travelling.
Take Crete, for example: on my first day on the ground after many hours in transit, I had booked myself onto a bus trip that included a 7.6 kilometre (4.6 mi) hike with a 270 m (886 ft) drop and rise (see: Preveli Beach and Palm Forest). Add a midday Mediterranean sun and I turned tomato-red and thought I was going to die!
Naturally, I did not learn my lesson. Three days later, I was on another bus, heading to the top of the Samaria Gorge – also in southern Crete. AllTrails, who are known to underestimate rather than overestimate difficulty, list this as a 14.5 km (9 mi) ‘challenging’ route. On the plus side, much of the track is downhill – steeply downhill. On the minus side, there is a long walk to town once the actual gorge is finished, and if you don’t make it to Agia Roumeli for the evening ferry, you are stranded!
Don’t get me wrong, I love walking. But, I no longer have the knees or the stamina I once had, and I found myself quite anxious the night before my trip.
But, I finished. I couldn’t have done it without a walking stick for the steep and rocky downhill sections – of which there are many – and I had to adjust my boots more than once.
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Orthodox Church – Lakkoi Xania
I had my nose pressed to the window for most of my bus trips across Crete – each view was more dramatic than the last! (iPhone12pro)
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Ξυλόσκαλο – Xyloskalo – Wooden Staircase
The northern entrance to the track starts at about 1250m (4100 ft) and drops steeply into the gorge.
Looking through the Samaria Gorge
The gorge cuts through the rugged White Mountains. At 16 km (10 mi), it is the longest in Europe. Stunning views from near the top of the hike make a good excuse to stop for a moment!
Steep Stairs
The first 6 km (3.8 mi) of the trail zig-zag down a steep cobbled staircase. Good boots are a must!
Fire-Fighting Equipment
This was a year before Greece suffered devastating wildfires; clearly the National Parks are prepared.
More Down …
The track continues down, but is softer underfoot where generations of trees have dropped their needles.
Mule on the Trail
The track can be quite hazardous, and there are mules at the ready in case someone needs rescuing. I didn’t see anyone making use of them: one woman fell and required first aid the day I hiked the path, but I think she managed to walk out herself.
Two Kilometres (1.24 Miles)
Only two! My walking app says three – and my knees already say five.
Rocky Walk
Most of the uphill sections ae mercifully short.
Nature’s Sculpture – Twisting Tree Trunk
Samaria cypresses (Cupressus sempervirens var. horizontalis) have strong horizontal branches that give the tree a bulky shape. They can live two to three hundred years.
Rocky Cairn
Humans seem to feel the need to mark their passing: small cairns dot the countryside.
Artesian Waters
There are a number of fresh springs along the route – I think this one is the Spring of Riza Sykias.
Agios Nikolaos Church
This little Greek Orthodox chapel marks the first official rest stop and the end of the steepest sections of track. It wasn’t open, but is was still a lovely spot for a quick break. Nearby, old ruins are believed to be from an ancient shrine to Apollo.
Artesian Pool
All the springs have no swimming signs clearly posted.
Autumn Leaves on the Water
The water is drinkable – and incredibly clear.
Flowering Sea Squill – Drimia Maritima
View over the Scree
Clearly, there is still more descending to do! Some say the gorge was created by a small river running between the White Mountains (Lefká Óri) and Mt. Volakias. Others credit the influence of tectonic processes more than two million years ago.
Walled Gardens in Samaria
The settlement here was populated until 1962, when the Samaria National Park was formed, and the villagers were moved out.
Bridge to the Samaria Settlement
The buildings here remain – but little was open except the toilet blocks. I sat on a garden wall, enjoyed my packed lunch, and retied my boots before setting off again.
Valley of the Gorge
The valley starts out wide enough, dwarfing the walkers picking their way over the rough rocky ground.
Walkers in the Canyon
Soon, however, the canyon walls close in.
Walls of the Gorge
The limestone and dolomite are carved by glacial action and other elements of time.
Afternoon Sun
Walkers are warned to wear sunscreen and hats: the noon sun is hot on the bare stones.
Contrasts
The early afternoon sun can no longer reach sections of the narrow canyon floor.
Slabs and Scree
The landscape is rugged and still changing. In the winter months, the hike is closed due to the high risk of flash flooding along the Samaria River. Even in spring and autumn, waters can rise suddenly. In 1993, some walkers were washed out to sea and drowned.
Walkers on a Bridge
As we approach the narrowest sections of the gorge, bridges keep our feet dry …
Water in a Weathered Cleft
… and protect the pristine spring waters from pollution.
Nature’s Artworks : Water and Rock
Curving Walkway
Autumn maples bend over the track
Winding through the Canyon
The narrowest part of the gorge is 11.5 km (7.15 mi) in from the beginning at the north entrance.
In the “Gate” or the “Iron Gate”
According to the official sign, the distance between the walls here is as little as three meters (10 ft), and they rise up to 300 meters.
Light at the end of the Canyon
The canyon walls reduce in height, and the end is in sight.
Walk to Town
There is a shuttle bus to Agia Roumeli, but there was a long queue and I would have had to wait at least a half hour. I must say the walk felt longer than it was!
I made it into town with time for a meal of stuffed vegetables and a well-earned glass of wine before I had to meet the ferry.
It is a stunningly beautiful area and I’m very glad I walked it.
I’m not entirely sure I would do it again!
Photos: 07September2022
