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Australian Fan Palms – Licuala Ramsayi
These beautiful, slow-growing palms are endemic to the Wet Tropics of north east Queensland, Australia, and are just one of the many reasons this rainforest is UNESCO-listed.
The Daintree is an ancient and magical place.
Part of the much larger Wet Tropics of Queensland World Heritage Site, the Daintree National Park comprises 1,200 km2 (463.3 sq mi) of stunningly beautiful tropical rainforest in Far North Queensland, Australia. The park is divided into two sections: along the coast, north of the Daintree River; and the Mossman Gorge section (Watch this space!), south of small towns and an agricultural area.
If there was an up-side for me to the travel restrictions placed on us during Covid-19, it was the opportunity to travel within Australia. The combination of the Far North Queensland’s Wet Season (i.e.: Low Season) and the rolling lock-downs made accommodation much more accessible and affordable. I managed to organise a week’s accommodation in Port Douglas (see: On Port Douglas Waters), giving me access to this wonderful region.
I have visited the southern section of the park before, but this was my first foray into the area north of the river – arguably the most spectacular, and certainly oldest section of rainforest. In fact, this may be the oldest surviving rainforest in the world, having existed continuously for more than 110 million years. As a consequence, these northern tropical forests have the highest concentration of primitive flowering plant families in the world.
I counted myself extra lucky when a local North-Queensland resident, who knew all the best stops, offered to show me around. This meant I got to just watch the scenery as it rolled past on the slow, windy road north. And, we explored the best boardwalks.
Do come along!
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The Daintree Ferry
Time slows down here: although the wait for the 15-minute cable-ferry crossing is short, it is long enough for a mental reset.
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Walu Wugirriga Lookout
It is a short drive from the ferry to Mount Alexandra, where the Walu Wugirriga Lookout allows for great views over the mouth of the Daintree River and out to the Coral Sea. The higher mountain on the left is Harris Peak (1068m), and Port Douglas, where I started my morning, is hiding, nestled below.
Dubuji Boardwalk
A number of elevated boardwalks lead from the road to the beach; they allow visitors access while reducing the disturbance to soil and native vegetation. Dubuji means ‘place of spirits’ – and it is rather awe inspiring.
Little Red Mangrove Crabs
The boardwalks also protect the small creatures – and keeps your feet dry!
Mangroves on Myall Beach
Mangroves are an often-underappreciated cornerstone of estuarine or tidal ecology. They never cease to amaze me.
Cape Tribulation
From parts of the walk, we can see Cape Tribulation, where the rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. The rocky headland was named by Lieutenant James Cook who saw this area as the beginning of all his expedition’s troubles: his ship, the HMS Endeavour, scraped a reef north east of the cape, and then ran aground on what is now called Endeavour Reef.
Myall Beach
The pristine beach stretches around to the cape.
Creepers
Back away from the beach, it is dark and lush, with vines and creepers everywhere.
A Dead Fan
Jungle Vines
The undergrowth tangles upon itself.
Textured Tree Trunk
Colours and patterns are everywhere you look.
Red Beech – Dillenia Alata
Lace Monitor – Varanus Varius
As we rounded a corner, we startled a small monitor, who scuttled back into the undergrowth before I could get a good shot.
Palm Forest
Sections of the Daintree are known for their fan palms – just one of about 920 different types of trees growing in Queensland’s Wet Tropics.
Australian (or Queensland) Fan Palm
These native palms have spectacular circular leaves that grow up to 2 metres (6.5 ft) in diameter.
Hairy Red Pittosporum – Pittosporum Rubiginosum
This tropical rainforest fruit is one of 200 pittosporums – and much more impressive than the ones that try to invade my garden, some 3000+ kilometres (1820 miles) to the south.
Through the Ferns
There is always a battle for light in a rainforest.
Spring Waters Rising
The creek along the Dubuji Boardwalk is spring-fed; …
Waters along the Boardwalk
… although it is brown with organic matter, it is surprisingly clear.
Standing Tall in the Waters
Patterns and Contrasts
I think that is a large native bee hive hiding behind the umbrella leaves.
Warning
Our last stop was for a short walk along the Kulki Boardwalk, where we were reminded that one or two people – often tourists – are killed by crocodiles every year or two. (iPhone12Pro)
Incoming Ferry
All too soon, it is time to catch the ferry and head back south.
Truly a magical place!
I hope to get back there one day soon
Until then,
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 24February2021
