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Village in the Mist
Ghandruk is a charming Gurung village in Nepal’s Modi Khola Valley. The usually stunning Annapurnas are hiding in the background, behind the rain and mists.
I was distressed to hear about the earthquake in Nepal earlier this month (3 November 2023): multi-storied brick houses in the remote, mountainous districts of Jajarkot and West Rukum collapsed after the 6.4 magnitude (USGS) quake, burying whole families in the rubble.
This beautiful country has had a special place in my heart since my first trekking trip there many years ago. My last visit was in March of 2017. Although that was almost two full years after the previous major earthquake – the Gorkha earthquake of April 2015 – the wreckage of that disaster could still be seen everywhere, and rebuilding was taking place slowly. The Gorkha quake was much more destructive than this November one – at least in part because it was in more built-up and populated areas, destroying homes and precious heritage temples all around the Kathmandu Valley. Even so, the thought of the lives lost and the extra hardships visited on the people affected by this most recent natural disaster as we come into a northern winter gives me pause.
On my 2017 trip to the country, I spent some time walking in the Kathmandu Valley (see: Ursula’s Weekly Wanders: Kathmandu Valley Rim) before participating in a photography workshop with the delightful Gavin Gough. After the workshop, my husband joined me, and a group of us undertook a slow circuit trek in the Annapurnas under the guidance of Angfula Sherpa.
On the penultimate day of our trek, we set off early from Tadapani, and travelled east towards the traditional Gurung village of Ghandruk. Although this portion of the Ghorepani/Poon Hill trek is rated as relatively easy, and is mostly downhill, I wasn’t the only one feeling my joints and my age. It was our fifth day of walking, and much of it had been through rain. I was happy to pace slowly, and thrilled to stop for an early lunch in the tiny hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka (see: One Enchanted Morning).
Sometimes it is easier to enjoy walks when revisiting the old photos! The foot-sore fatigue and insidious rain are all but forgotten when I look once again at the beauty of those hardy people and distant landscapes.
Join me in and around Ghandruk.
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In the Courtyard
We had stopped for early lunch in the hamlet of Bhaisi Kharka, where Gavin chatted with the locals …
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Child with a Phone
… and watched as a young child played with his phone.
Flower in the Stream
We are surrounded by the famous Himalayan forests of rhododendron trees. The spring blooming season is coming to an end, and flowers drop from the tall trees around us and into the waters rushing past.
Waterfall
The mountain waters – in what is probably the Ghatte Khola – rush down the rocks in a steep fall …
Steep Stairs
… and narrow stone steps follow beside them. We are gradually dropping down in altitude; watch your footing!
Prayer Flags
Tibetan prayer flags bless the surrounding countryside and colour our path.
Mossy Steps
I can’t help but wonder how long these mountain paths have been in use …
Stone Steps
… as they wind off around the mountainside.
Twisted Trees
It is like being in the enchanted forests that populate old fairy tales! The mossy tree trunks bend and twist around us in the damp.
Wild Rhododendron
This is the land of the lali gurans (lali guras), Nepal’s national flower, the red rhododendron. Some are still blooming in the dense forest around us.
Buffalo (Bubalus Bubalis) Grazing
Nepal relies on buffalo, which contribute more than half the milk and over one-third of the country’s meat production.
Wood Pile
Winters are long and hard: in the absence of reliable electricity, these remote areas still depend on wood for heating and cooking.
Broken Window
I love the colours and textures – and have to wonder how long it has been since this actually operated as a store!
Ghandruk in the Rain
The heavy mists have developed into full-on rain. As we round the corner to Ghandruk, most of the village disappears into cloud.
Ponies and Donkeys on the Path
Closer to the village, we share the wet cobbles …
Pack Animals at Work
… with trains of ponies and donkeys.
Old Gurung Woman
The local people seem unconcerned by the rain; on the other hand, we are coated in plastic!
Mountain Dog in the Rain
From time to time we meet variations on the beautiful Tibetan mastiff.
Shiny Kitchen
Later, once I’m in dry clothes, I admire the shiny utensils in the kitchen of our guesthouse.
Saleswoman
The next morning, we get up from our cosy room to find a saleswoman ready and waiting outside in the courtyard with her beautiful mountain gems. (iPhone6)
Our Team
This will be our last day walking, so I make a picture of our wonderful guides and porters. (iPhone6)
Ponies on the Track
The pack horses are already at work when we set off out of the village. Even though people are becoming more aware of animal welfare, the dainty animals look a bit sad to me.
Boy on a Rock
The misty rains continue, keeping the mountain range hidden.
A Cheeky Smile
An impromptu environmental portrait session almost makes up for the weather!
Leaving Ghandruk
We pause to mark the start of our final leg , …
Fields Below
… as the valley we’ll be descending into beckons in the mists below …
Ponies on the Path
… and the narrow track winds out in front of us.
Over the course of this portion of our walk, we dropped from about 2548 m (8361 ft) at Bhaisi Kharka to 2012 m (6601 ft) at Ghandruk. It was noticeable in the vegetation around us: almost gone were the rhododendron forests, replaced by expanses of terraced farms.
My legs and lungs also noticed the difference in altitude, and were thankful.
Happy Walking!
Photos: 23-24March2017
