The Grand Canyon of Arabia: Jebel Shams, Oman

A stone cairn on the Omani Grand Canyon, Jebel Shams

A Cairn on the Canyon
Oman’s ‘Grand Canyon’ at Jebel Shams is the second deepest canyon in the world – after the one in Arizona, USA.

I knew virtually nothing about Oman before travelling there – my aim was a long-awaited trip to Egypt (eg: Souvenirs of Egypt) and Jordan (eg: Postcards from Jordan), and I had the chance to tack another stop onto my journey.

Oman has a subtropical dry climate, and is defined as being 82 percent desert; given that it is tucked at the bottom of the Arabian Peninsula, I was expecting – and got – a magical desert sojourn (eg: Life in the Desert). The roads were smooth and straight, making touring easy. Once we were away from the rugged coastline, much of the landscape was rocky and flat, interspersed with date groves and forts. I visited a lot of forts! We had visited one that very morning (see: Jabreen Castle).

The remaining 15 percent of the country is mountainous. The Hajar range – running parallel to the northern coastline of Oman – is home to Jebel Shams (جَبَل شَمْسMountain of Sun), the country’s highest peak (3018 meters, 9902 feet), and the Al Nakhur (Al Nakhr) Canyon

This canyon is also known as Wadi Nakhar, Wadi Ghul, and/or the ‘Grand Canyon’ of Arabia/Oman. It is well named! This gorge, which runs through the valley at the base of Jebel Shams and into the Western Hajar Mountains, is at least 500m (1640 ft) long, and up to 1,000m (3281 ft) deep. The top of Jebel Shams is home to a military installation, and access to that side of the canyon is restricted; the vantage point we drove to was on a high plateau opposite the mountain peak.

You can hike along the bottom of the Wadi Ghul / Wadi Nakhr gulley, or along the top on the 4km (2.5m) out-and-back Jebel Shams Balcony Walk (see: ZigZagonEarth Jebel Shams). Our driver gave us a short briefing and left us to our own devices at the top of the plateau, where I happily wandered taking photos.

Clay brick buildings and a dry mountainside from inside a car, Hajar Mountains Oman

Rocky Hillside from the Car
Because of the brick construction of those buildings, I’m not sure if that is one of the abandoned villages in the area, or if it is still inhabited. This region was once home to dozens of remote mountain settlements, but in the early 2000s the Government of Oman moved most of the inhabitants to less remote locations.

Blue direction sign from inside a car, Hajar Mountains Oman

Roadworks
Most of the roads I traveled on in Oman were smooth bitumen highways. In this region, however, heavy annual rains destroy the road surface, so it is graded, but there is no effort to pave it in between seasons.

Small shrubs and granite boulders, Omani Grand Canyon

Nature’s Still Life Found
Small shrubs cling to the granite boulders at the top of the lookout-plateau.

Parallel striations in the cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

The Canyon
The patterns and striations in the walls of the canyon are mesmerising.

Military installation on Jebel Shams, Omani Grand Canyon

Military Installation
The white domes on the top of Jebel Shams are rather other-worldly.

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Stripes
Those layer of rock speak to the pressures of inconceivable time!

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Overhanging Lookout Ledge
There are no guard rails; …

People on the cliff, Omani Grand Canyon

People on Top
… anyone with severe vertigo might want to re-think their visit.

On the cliff, Omani Grand Canyon

Small Shrubs

Cliff walls, Omani Grand Canyon

Into Forever
The canyon walls and the blue mountains float off into the distance, …

Rocks and cliffs, Omani Grand Canyon

Patterned Rock
… while the unique patterns on the rocks here on the plateau catch my attention.

Looking down into Wadi Ghul, the Grand Canyon of Oman

Don’t Look Down!
The wadi – a ravine or channel that is dry except in the rainy season – winds through the valley far below.

Slabs of granite, Omani Grand Canyon

Slabs in the Sun

Cairn against blue sky, Omani Grand Canyon

Cairn Against the Sky

Landscape, Omani Grand Canyon

An Otherworldly Landscape
Powerlines run alongside the dirt road: the area is not completely isolated.

Rocks and cliffs, Omani Grand Canyon

Tumbled Blocks

Goats and tourists on the plateau over the Omani Grand Canyon.

On the Track
Goats mingle with the tourists on the rocky paths.

Men in Omani dress on the lookout at the Grand Canyon of Oman

Men on the Lookout
In one of the few fenced areas on the plateau …

Men in Omani dress on the lookout at the Grand Canyon of Oman

Guides Chatting
… local drivers catch up on the news.

A rocky landscape, Hajar Mountains Oman

Rocky Landscape
When my travel companion and I have had our fill of the canyon rim, we drive back west – through more rocky terrain.

Text: Happy RamblingIt is a stark, but beautiful landscape; this imposing gorge is well worth exploring.

Happy Rambling!

Pictures: 23October2019

Your email is never published or shared. Required fields are marked *

*

*