Cemeteries, especially old ones, speak volumes. The epitaphs engraved on the headstones, tombs, and mausoleums tell stories about the living. The materials and style of the contruction, the location and orientation of the graves themselves, and the way in which they are cared for, give insights into people’s priorities. The study of burial rituals is one of the mainstays of cultural anthropology, illuminating, as it does, so much about the values and organisation of a society. Photographically, graveyards are a goldmine: rich with textured surfaces and subtle tones.
Chinese graveyards can be particularly interesting. Traditionally, they were built into hills – the higher the better. Funeral observances were elaborate and bodies were buried intact, with the food, money and goods that they might need in the afterlife. During the annual Qingming Festival, the tributes were paid to the dead, and the graves were swept and cleaned. With the pressure of population and scares resources, the idea of cremation was promoted, so that today many Chinese graveyards include provisions for urns.
In many places, however, frugality is ignored. Where money and space permit, urns are housed in mausoleums as large and ostentatious as ever, as is ‘befitting’ the stature of the ancestor.
The spiritual importance of one’s ancestors in Chinese culture makes the old Chinese cemetery on Silom Road in Bangkok even more surprising. Sinking into a watery grave itself, overrun by pumkin vines, weeds and mangy dogs, it is hard to imagine the ancestors feeling at home there.
I had wanted to visit this place years ago when a photographer friend of mine posted the results of one of his visits on his Flickr site, but I never quite made it. It took the suggestion of visiting Manhattan-based artist, Jenny Krasner to pique my interest once again.
Truthfully, had I been alone, I would have never ventured past the gate! Beyond the walled car park, a large sala (pavilion) gave shade and shelter to a collection of rough-looking Thais and assorted car parts and bits of machinery. We greeted the men cautiously in our best Thai, and when they ignored us, we assumed it was safe to proceed. The graves themselves are surrounded by water, and we had to climb over stones, broken glass and rusting cans to get to the pathway between the headstones. I was wishing I was wearing closed shoes, trying to remember when I had last had a tetanus shot and wondering what the place would look like in rainy season (we were there early summer) while picking my way gingerly over the uneven ground with my camera gear. The pack of resident soi dogs (we counted 20), somnolent from the late morning heat, growled and barked whenever we moved too fast or got too close.
People actually live on site, and there was evidence of children on the cluttered back porch that overlooked the flooded grounds and the graves. If these people are caretakers, it is not clear what they have achieved against the decay of a cemetery which is not actually as old as it looks.
I don’t get the feeling too many spirits stay there anymore.
So – keep your eyes open this Hallowe’en! They will probably be looking for a better-kept home.
considering the wet grave sites in these photos’ one would think only a shadow of the water in there now….stay safe.
I am shocked at the state of neglect in the Chinese cemetery. This is quite contrary to the degree of respect and reverence that the Chinese traditionally have towards their ancestors. I find it hard to believe that there could be no surviving descendants of those interred in the cemetery to maintain the grounds? Most cemeteries, regardless of religion, are usually kept in pristine condition. This would be an interesting story in itself.
Hi Selim!
Nice of you to visit.
I agree with you: most cemeteries are maintained better than this one. If I’m reading the dates right, this one is only 87 years old.
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Interesting shots Ursula. I concur with your reading of the date B.E. 2467 which would make it 1924. Certainly looks much older than 87 years!
Always happy to have your visits, Guava!
Hi Ursula
I came from Burma but I have been living in Thailand for 10 years. My grandfather was buried in this cemetery. When I first came here, I asked one of my relatives to take me to the cemetery so that I could pay respect to my grandpa. Since then, I have been paying respect to my grandpa whenever I was around that area. I think more than 10 times now. Before I always went inside the cemetery but I couldn’t go in front of my grandpa’s tomb because the ground was flooded water. However, the last two times which were in this year , I dared not even go inside in the cemetery as there were a lot of dogs in the compound where people park their cars. Before, there were about 6 or 7 dogs but now it was about 15, so I dared not go in. I apologised my grandpa and paid respect to him from the gate only.
It is so sad that the cemetery has been neglected like this. I know my aunt pays a visit on Chaingming Day every year but I don’t know whether she is still alive or not, and her children keep going or not.
I took three photos of my grandpa when I first went there and I think my grandpa’s tomb is in one of the photos that you took. It is photo number 5 and my grandpa’s tomb is beside the big one with two lions on the tomb. It is on the right side of the photo.
Do you have the photo taken from the front so that the tomb I thought is my grandpa’s? In my photo, there was a part of the big tomb and the smaller one. My grandpa’s is between them. Or from the other side of the tombs. If you have it could you please send it to my email address? I would like to take more photos like you but I dare not go in because of the dogs.
Thanks you very much for taking the photos and putting them on the website.
Best regards
May
Hi May,
I’m so sorry to hear about your grandfather. It is sad when graveyards are not maintained properly.
I’ve had a look at my originals, and I don’t think I have what you are after. Some photos that are not on the Blog are on my Flickr site, so you could try looking at those. Just go to my Flickr page (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ursula_bkk) and search “Chinese graveyard”. The pictures currently start from page 43 (http://www.flickr.com/photos/ursula_bkk/page43/) but that changes each time I post.
I’m sorry I couldn’t be more help!
Best regards, Ursula
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I have visited this cemetery as a photographer on a few occasions since 2013 and have always thought it would disappear before I could come back and visit it again. Here I am in 2018 and going to visit it tomorrow. I know the dogs are noisy and if they have puppies may be dangerous but I have a good zoom on my camera and I can take photos from outside the walls. I too have wondered if the people who live there are caretakers or do they just make money from allowing people to park there. I feel great respect for the people buried there even though I am not related to them, I feel my photos may be the last ones taken of their graves – it must be a very desirable site for future real estate development. I will do my best to record what is still there.
I hope the dogs give you space!
Is it safe for a Solo Male in good shape to go in and try and get some photos ? Would love to go in but a bit nervous after reading the above ? Was thinking of going tomorrow..
Hi Jennifer,
Would be very keen to see your photos. I visited late 2017 in an attempt to trace my Straits Chinese family ties, specifically 2 Great GrandUncles who moved to Bangkok from Singapore in the early 1900s. However, the place was closed off and the caretaker did not allow access.
Any of your photos have closeups clear enough to read the tombstone inscriptions ?
Hi Jennifer or Ursula , I am in Bangkok now and was seriously thinking of visiting the Chinese graveyard tomorrow…I am a Male in good shape with a solid stature…should I be concerned about my safety there ? It seems very interesting to me and I am an amateur photographer…..Bob from the Cayman Islands : )
I’m sure you’ll be fine!
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