Thaung Tho Kyaung Market, Inle Lake, Myanmar

Portrait of a Burmese Man with a Cheroot, Thaung Tho, Myanmar

Man with a Cheroot
A man takes a break, squatting on the bundles of bamboo that sit at the docks of the Thaung Tho Market on Inle Lake.

Inle LakeMyanmar’s second largest freshwater body of water, sits in the mountainous-west of the multi-ethnic Shan State. The 45 square-mile (117 square-kilometer) lake is known for its leg-rowing Intha fishermen and its floating villages. Amongst the reeds and narrow waterways, the ethnic markets and buddhist pagodas are also worth a visit.

The markets around Inle Lake are held on a rotating five-day cycle. The one at Thaung Tho Kyaung, a Pa’O (Taungthu) village in the canals well south of the city of Nampan, is a popular event which brings the local people down from the surrounding hills and in from the waterways.

The Pa’O people are the second largest ethnic group in the Shan State – and many live on and around the lake.

Two wooden boats laden with produce, Inle Lake Myanmar

Life on the Water
Whatever you want to do on Inle Lake, you do it by boat.

Burmese man on the controls of a longtail boat, Inle Lake, Myanmar

Our Boat on the Lake
Our boatman steers us through the waterways…

Portrait of a Burmese Boatman at the helm of a long tail, Inle Lake, Myanmar

Portrait of a Boatman
… to our various destinations around Inle Lake.

Thaung Tho Kyaung Pagoda from the water, Inle Lake Myanmar

Thaung Tho Kyaung Pagoda
We pass many beautiful Buddhist temples on our travels.

Wooden boats, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Boats at the Dock
Our docking point near the Thaung Tho Market is already busy with boat traffic.

Portrait of a Burmese Man with a Cheroot, Thaung Tho, Myanmar

Man on a Break
Bamboo is big business. These long, strong, pieces are used extensively for construction.

Woman in the entry of a the boat Dock, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Woman at the Dock
Smaller pieces of bamboo and other non-wood fibres are woven for walls, floors and roofing.

Burmese man washing dishes, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Washing Dishes
The Thaung Tho Market is a busy place: they are already washing up at the coffee hut.

Betel Paan Maker, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Paan Maker
Dotted all around the markets are stalls for preparing paan: betel quid. Called kun-ya (ကွမ်းယာ) in Burmese, the quid is a combination of areca nuts with spice and/or tobacco wrapped up in betel leaves.

Hands spreading lime on Betel leaves, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Making Betel Paan
The word “paan” comes from the Sanskrit word “parṇa” (leaf). The betel leaf is spread with slaked lime – a calcium hydroxide paste – which helps release the alkaloid stimulants in the betel leaf and areca nut.

Limed betel leaves with areca nut and tobacco, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Betel Leaves and Areca Nuts
Limed betel leaf is filled with chopped areca nut…

Weathered tins of tobacco, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Tobacco Tins
… and a mixture of tobacco and spices…

Hands rollin betel leaves into a packet , Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Making Betel Paan
… before being rolled into a packet …

Burmese man with a mouth full of paan, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Chewing Paan
… and tucked into one’s mouth to be chewed.

Young Burmese Man in Thanaka Powder, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Young Man in Thanaka Powder
Although young, this betel-paan salesman already shows some signs of the oral problems caused by chewing quid.

Canopy over Thaung Tho Tribal Markett, Inle Lake Myanmar

Thaung Tho Market
The markets are a centre for the local Pa-O (Black Karen) people and include produce, clothing and trinkets.

Two Pa

Pa’O Women
Although many Pa’O women now wear modern blouses or sweaters instead of the traditional black jackets, they still wear their woven checkered head-dresses. These vegetable-sellers wait for customers, …

Two Pa

Pa’O Women
… as they survey the market area.

Three young monks in Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Young Monks
These three boys were enjoying “window shopping” together. It is not uncommon for young boys to become Buddhist novices.

Ornate pipes, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Pipes
Ornate pipes are amongst the bits and baubles on offer.

Karen Man, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Checking out the Goods
A Karen man examines a length of fabric…

Men finalising a sale, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Transaction
… and makes his purchase…

Karen Man, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Karen Man
… without ever loosening his grip on his cheroot.

Karen Woman and Child, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Karen Woman and Child
With her baby in a carry-sling, a young Karen mum does her shopping.

Burmese me loading bamboo onto Boats, Thaung Tho Tribal Market, Inle Lake Myanmar

Boats on the Dock
As we leave the markets, the dock area is busy with people loading the 20-foot lengths of bamboo.

I love markets for the glimpse they give into people’s every-day lives.

Two things stood out for me at this one:

Firstly, time is paced differently: there is a lot of standing or squatting while watching and waiting – interspersed with bursts of activity or labour-intensive periods. Whether you are waiting to sell your bamboo or your vegetables, or waiting for your betel paan, you will have long spells of inactivity.

Secondly, stimulants – in the form of coffee, cheroots and betel paan – have a more prominent role than any single food-stuff.

Text: Keep smiling

I guess the stimulants help with those long periods of idleness…

Until next time ~

Photos: 21-22September2012

  • gabe - June 4, 2015 - 5:47 am

    Well doneReplyCancel

  • Katy - June 4, 2015 - 12:19 pm

    Nice trip down memory lane. Some excellent portraits, for sure.ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - June 4, 2015 - 5:48 pm

      Thanks, Gabe and Katy. Nice to have your visits. 😀ReplyCancel

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