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Monkey Chorus in Uluwatu
It’s an extraordinary scene: as the light falls over the cliffs of Uluwatu and over the visitors from all around the world, we listen to the sound of the rising wind and the amazing a cappella clicks and rhythmic chanting of the central “monkey-chorus”. The unique Balinese Kecak performance of the Ramayana story has begun!
Bali is real a treat for the visitor: the landscape is beautiful and harmonious, the food and coffee are delicious, and the people are friendly and welcoming.
And, in spite of the number of tourists that stream into this tiny Indonesian vacation paradise, somehow the people of Bali have managed to preserve and cultivate their distinctive version of Hindu traditions.
Dance and drama are integral to guarding the traditional cultural stories and developing modern artistic expressions firmly rooted in the past: “In Bali, dance and drama are interchangeable: age-old dance-drama stories are depicted through precise, stylised movements: movements that include defined body-shape and placement; finger, hand and arm gestures; and the quick, bird-like motions of the neck, head and eyes. The makeup and costuming are as much a part of the ancient traditions as the dances themselves.”
We had enjoyed a number of different Balinese dances (see: Legong and other Balinese Dances) during our stays on the island, but somehow had missed out on what is reputedly the “best known” Balinese dance: the Kecak – pronounced “kechak”. Like many Hindu and Buddhist art forms, the story is taken from part of the Ramayana, the holy book about seventh avatar of the god Vishnu, Lord Ram or Rama. The segment of the Ramayana featured in the Kecak Dance is the kidnapping of Rama’s beloved wife Sita by the demon-king Ravana, and the efforts of Rama and his brother Lakshmana to retrieve her. This is where Lord Hanuman, the monkey god, enters the story, and helps in the rescue.
Unlike other Balinese dances, the Kecak does not use a gamelan-orchestral accompaniment. It is named for the “chat-a-chak-a-chak” sing-song made by the chanting men in the chorus. This relatively modern format (developed in the 1930s) is built on the age-old Balinese Sanghyang traditions of sacred trance dances which are only performed as part of religious ceremonies.
Uluwatu Temple, one of Bali’s principal Hindu sea temples (Pura Segara), is possibly the most iconic place to enjoy the Kecak Dance. Named for it’s location, the Pura (temple) Luhur (sublime) sits at the Ulu (edge) of a 70-meter-high (230 ft) Watu (cliff or rock). It is also renowned for its magnificent sunsets.
We weren’t favoured with much of a sunset, but at least we weren’t drenched by the rains we’d experienced at Tanah Lot, the other popular Western sea temple, which we had visited the week before (see: Chasing the Sunset).
Grab a sarong – modest dress is required in all Balinese temples – and join me for a Kecak dance performance.
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Old Woman at the Coffee Shop
We’d had a long drive, and a morning on the waters around Nusa Dua (more on that some other time), so I was in need of a rich, Balinese coffee before we went into the temple grounds. The shop-owner’s mother was gracious enough to pose for me.
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Gnarled Tree in the Courtyard
The temple grounds are tidy, dotted with shrines, and shaded by ancient trees.
Visitors to Uluwatu
The grounds of the cliff-side temple overlook the Indian Ocean.
To the Temple
The views, the cliffs, …
On the Edge (Ulu) of the Cliff (Watu)
… and the walkway stretch out in both directions.
Puru (Temple) on the Edge (Ulu)
The tiny tiered temple is dwarfed by the seventy-metre cliff and the endless, rolling seas and skies.
Macaque on the Banister
The walkways are the domain of the monkeys, who have learned to steal anything they can get their hands on: phones, eye-glasses, hats, wallets. They might – if you are lucky – be persuaded to return your valuables in exchange for food.
Macaque on the Steps
Temple attendants have been unable to stamp out this thievery; new monkeys introduced to the area learn the behaviour very quickly, and so it continues. One snatched a small coin purse that was attached to my camera bag – a weak chain is no match for a naughty monkey!
Pura Uluwatu
As we walk down the path (holding onto our hats and glasses), we get a better view of the temple itself.
Temple Gardens
The light is falling as we make our way towards the dance arena, …
Tourists in the Temple Grounds
… alongside visitors in “borrowed” sarongs.
Lighting the Fires
As the audience file in and find seats in the bleachers, a Hindu priest makes offerings and lights the lamp flames.
Introducing the Program
A woman introduces the program. From where we are seated, we can’t understand a word she says, but we have a printed handout, so hopefully we’ll have a sense of what is going on.
The Monkey Chorus
The monkey-chorus, making continual rhythmic percussive vocal sounds, form a tight circle around the flaming lamp. Their longyi are fashioned from the ubiquitous black-and-white checked poleng cloth which symbolises the balance of the universe.
The attached short video clip I took with my phone is not great quality, but it shows Rama and Sita entering, and gives a taste of the remarkable sounds the Monkey Chorus makes. Just click the link!
The Golden Deer
Rama is seen hunting a golden deer that he and Sita came across in the forest. Unfortunately, the golden deer is really the shape-shifting demon-king Ravana, who covets Sita; Rama disappears, and the trouble begins!
Garuda
The story gets rather convoluted: Sita has sent Rama’s brother Laksamana in search of Rama; she is left alone in the forest, where Ravana, the mythical multi-headed demon-king who we last saw in the shape of the golden deer, tries to kidnap her; he then disguises himself as an old man and tries again. Her cries for help are heard by the Garuda, who fights for her, but his wings are injured, and Ravana wins.
Hanuman
Meanwhile, Rama and his brother Laksamana have reunited, and when they meet Hanuman, the monkey commander of the monkey army, they enlist his aid in rescuing Sita.
Trijata
We’ve seated ourselves high up in the bleachers, in the hope of a sunset over the cliffs. Each time we blink, the monkey chorus changes formation and there are new characters on set! Trijata is the niece of the demon-king Ravana.
Hanuman Returns
The sky darkens – without any of the colour we had hoped for – and Hanuman returns to help rescue Sita. He poses for the cameras of the work-group who are travelling together on a team-building holiday.
Giant of Alengka Pura
Of course, nothing goes smoothly! The servants of Alengka Pura (???) enlist giants to punish Hanuman; …
Hanuman Captured
… they try to burn him, but he – naturally – escapes and punishes them.
Rama and Sita Reunited
Rama and Sita are reunited, and live happily… until the next chapter…
The Ramayana epic poem in its entirety is some 24,000 verses long, with parts of the text dating back to the 7th century BCE. It is an allegory of Hindu teachings, and as such, underpins culture and art throughout India, Nepal, Sri Lanka and much of South-east Asia. I’ve seen segments presented through cartoon, dance, shadow-puppets and marionettes; the stories are everywhere.
This is a unique presentation of a much-told tale.
Even with the ever-present wind and the threat of rain, the backdrop was magnificent, and the slow-moving, elegant Balinese dance style against the trance-inducing “chat-a-chak-a-chak” of the monkey chorus was mesmerising.
We left bewitched.
Pictures: 04February2017
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[…] taste of Balinese performance: a Kecak show at Tanah Lot. More about that some other time (see: Tari Kecak, Uluwatu) […]