“Mothers of India”
There is something very Indian about women and children joyfully running to music, up and down a border road with a huge flag flapping, while soldiers watch over them.
It has to be one of the most unusual and amusing “ritual” displays I have ever seen!
Every day before sunset, thousands of Indians and a smattering of foreign tourists pour into the Indian BSF (Border Security Force) region at the Attari-Wagah joint check post (JCP) to watch the ceremonial lowering of the Indian flag.
We – a group of travel-photographers under the guidance of photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV – were told exactly where we could sit, and were reminded that – although the dancing, races, and displays of mock-military prowess were all in good humour – the assault rifles that the military guard carried were deadly real. We were to remain in our seats and do as we were told at all times.
Duly noted!
JCP Attari Border
“Activities Carried out at JCP Attari [include:] 1. Daily Retreat ceremony.”
That is what we have come to watch.
Female Border Guard
They might be fully trained military personal, but they are still ready with the welcoming smiles.
Indian Border Security Force (BSF) Officer
The Indian Border Security Force officers stand out in their bright red-and-gold headdresses…
BSF Officers
… as they direct the crowd …
BSF Officers
… into the right sections of the stands.
Indian Border Security Force (BSF) Officer
A relatively modern unit, the BSF have been guarding the Indian border since 1965.
Running the Flag
The first activity involves “racing” with the Indian flag, up and down the road, to loud and joyous music. Everyone is a winner!
Running the Flag
Young men carry the flags into selected areas at the top of the stands…
BSF Officer
… as the guards in their spats and spectacular headdresses maintain order.
Indian Flags
The men in the back rows hold on tight …
Indian Flags
… as the flags wave overhead.
Border Guard
Fortunately, everyone knows their place, and the guards don’t need to say anything twice.
Indian Border
Under the benevolent smile of Mahatma Gandhi, …
Any Excuse to Dance!
… the music changes and dancing Indians fill the street.
Barbed Wire and Smiles
High in the stands, other Indians watch.
Indian Border Security Force (BSF) Officer
The Other Side
Although the Pakistani Rangers also conduct ceremonies on the Wagah side of the border, the mood seemed much more subdued.
Singing the Praises
On the Indian side the national anthem starts, and everybody sings with gusto and pride.
STOP
The gates are closed…
Old Man with a Flag
… a last old man with a flag runs through, …
Forces Marching
… and Sikh soldiers clear the way.
Indians and their Flags
The crowd waits…
Warm-ups
… as a soldier practices his high kicks…
Women Marching
… and two female soldiers march in quick-time.
Women at the Gate
The soldiers stand at the gate to the no-man’s-land between India and Pakistan…
Men in Step
… as the men march quick-time …
Walk and Kick
… and kick at their counterparts on the other side of the gate.
Marching Out
Fortunately, we are not the only ones smiling and laughing as the the men perform their quick marches, high kicks, and crow cries at the “enemy” through the closed gate in displays of prowess.
High Kick …
The struts and kicks continue for some time at the open gate …
… and Return
… as the Pakistan Rangers (PR) stand guard on the other side.
Meanwhile on the other Side
After raised fists, struts, and high kicks from both sides …
Lowering the Flags
… the flags of the two countries are lowered simultaneously.
Marching the Flag In
The flag, specially folded so that the blue Ashoka Chakra shows on top, is marched into the BSF building…
A Portrait of Nitin Tyagi
… and it is time for us to leave …
Preet Singh
… catching a few faces along the way.
Satnam Singh
With all the joyful people and smiling faces, …
Barbed Wire
… it is easy to forget the ongoing deadly tension between the two countries.
It was an incredible display: like matched peacocks showing off.
We were not allowed to move around, but the view at ground level is even more extraordinary, as you can see in this irreverent video I found on YouTube:
I still laugh every time I see it.
Keep smiling!
Pictures: 21November2013
