.jpg)
Chiusi on a Hilltop
It seems that every hilltop in central Italy – that region where Umbria and Tuscany border each other – is home to a fortified medieval town or city.
Late summer last year, my husband and I were in central Italy enjoying the sun – and the sun-drenched olives and tomatoes and grapes – that Italy is known for.
We were holidaying Italian style: we rented a wonderful villa in the tiny town of Gioiella, Umbria (Villa Gioiella), practically on the border of Tuscany, and packed the rooms with three generations of friends and family. We filled the house with wine (so many bottles that it took more than one trip to the recycling depot!), fresh food, late nights and laughter.
The days were long and lazy – but we did get out to explore some of the local countryside, albeit not very efficiently, thanks to many “lost in translation” moments. For example: we drove two hours to the medieval hilltop village of Roccatederighi to take part in their “Medieval Times in the Borgo of Roccatederighi (Grosseto)”, which happens on the first weekend of August – only to discover that we were a week early! It seems that “the weekend” starts on Friday in Italy. On the other hand, we were late for (and therefore, missed out on) our pre-paid visits to the Etruscan tombs near Chiusi because we understood we were to arrive some time after 4pm, not by 4pm.
But, the sun was shining, the wine was good, the food was fabulous, and there were so many places to visit that I think we had more than our fill of culture and history.
Join me for a few highlights from the medieval towns that sit amid the rolling hills and vineyards of central Italy.
.jpg)
Around every Medieval Corner…
As the roads crossed back and forth between Umbria and Tuscany, we were treated to repeated scenes of red roofs against dusty green olive orchards and fluffy white clouds against blue skies. (iPhone6)
.jpg)
Steps to the Citadel
Castiglione del Lago, Umbria, was the city closest to us, so it was where we spent much of our time. Like other medieval cities, the best access was on foot: we’d park in the “newer” neighbourhoods, and walk up to the old walls of the “Castle of the Lion on the Lake.”
The Fortress and the Fountain
The Castle of the Lion was built on an island in the southwest region of Lake Trasimeno in the mid-1200s. Over time, the growing city extended beyond this original island by land-bridge, leaving the well-preserved medieval fortress and historical centre bounded by water on the remaining three sides.
The Fortress of the Lion
The pentagonal-shaped castle was built by Emperor Frederick II and finished in 1247 CE.
Inside the Old City
The old fortified city and its three piazzas are now filled with shops and restaurants.
Old City Gate
Three gates lead in and out of the old city.
Bell Tower
There are three churches within the old city walls; the bell tower of the Church of Santa Maria Maddalena is the most visible. (iPhone6)
Saleswoman
It is the people that make a city. The people in Castiglione del Lago are passionate about their food: …
Saleswoman
… their wine, their olive oil, their soup mixes, and in this case, their truffles. The truffles here were the absolute best, she assured us.
Painted Ceiling
The Renaissance style Palazzo della Corgna or “Ducal Palace” was predominantly painted in the late 1500s. It now operates as a museum.
Window over the Fortress
From the Ducal Palace you can look to the walls of the fortress…
Through the Corridor
… or you can walk to them through the covered corridor, built in the early 1600s.
Castle Courtyard
From the Medieval Fortress, looking back to the Ducal Palace, the most predominant feature is the olive grove.
On top of Castle Walls
We enjoyed glorious summer weather as we walked around the ramparts.
The Lake Beyond
There are great views over Lake Trasimeno and the surrounding countryside from the top of the castle walls.
Up a Castle Turret
The Castle of the Lion (Castello del Leone) features square towers in four of its five corners and a triangular shaped bastion in the fifth.
Looking over Lake Trasimeno
Sun on the Ramparts
Castle Ramparts
Olive Grove
Ancient olive trees grow in the shelter of the ancient walls. They may well have been planted when the fortress was new: olive trees often grow to be centuries old.
Castiglione del Lago Street
Outside the museum/castle grounds, the old streets are cobbled, narrow and charming.
Scooter
Nothing says “Italy” to me like a scooter – even if it is a Japanese model!
Tile City Map
Outside the old walls, there is a ceramic tile map of the city sights and surrounds.
The Citadel
A late evening sky makes the Castle of the Lion (Castello del Leone) look even more imposing.
War Memorial Of The First And Second World War (1923)
Chiusi, only thirty minutes away in Tuscany, is another charming medieval city who’s origins date back even further, to the ancient Etruscans and the centuries before the Modern Era.
Chiusi Arch
The cobbled laneways in these old, medieval cities are narrow, winding, and often covered with arches. They are also well lived in: festooned with laundry and decorated with colourful plants.
Inside “Saint Secondiano the Martyr”
The history in the buildings goes back for years: the Saint Secondiano the Martyr Cathedral dates to the 6th century.
Chiusi Street
Tourists admire the old, narrow, streets. (iPhone6)
Statues in the Atrium
Chiusi is known for its National Archaeological Museum which houses priceless Etruscan artefacts.
Canopus Headed Urn
The Etruscans, from whom the name “Tuscany” is derived, had a complex civilisation. Although little is known about their origins, they left behind artworks in terracotta and bronze, and elaborate underground tombs. This beautiful bronze canopic jar dates to the 6th Century BC.
Etruscan Canopic Urn
A terracotta head and other pottery, dating to 675-650 BC.
Etruscan Sarcophagus
An ancient sarcophagus, dating back to about 800 BC: the sarcophagus itself depicts the battle of the Greeks against Gauls. Many of the sarcophagi were carved from la pietra fetida, a type of limestone that smells due to its sulphur content.
Roccatederighi
Another medieval city on another hillside, Roccatederighi comes alive for its annual medieval festival; what a shame we missed it!
Sunset
Many were the bottles of wine we drank as the sun went down over Gioiella, Umbria, Italy.
Food, family, friends…
… and great sights.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 01-07August2015
