Stories in Stone: the Monuments at Mahabalipuram, Tamil Nadu, India

Pancha Rathas
Carved out of a single pink granite outcrop, the five distinctive monuments in this complex resemble the wooden chariots (rathas) of their day. They have stood here since the 7th century, and have weathered two tsunamis and constant salt winds from the nearby Bay of Bengal.

Morning Sea Fog
Our first stop was at the aptly-named Shore Temple, built between 700 and 728 CE. You can just see the waters of the Bay of Bengal behind the fence.

Family of Visitors
I love how so many Indians are willing to let perfect strangers take their pictures!

Shore Temples
The three temples at the complex are built on the same platform; the larger two of these are dedicated to Shiva and the small third shrine, between the two, is dedicated to a reclining Vishnu.

Pilgrims in Red and Yellow
Pilgrimage to sacred places is a cornerstone in Hindu practice – and Mahabalipuram is one of many Indian places on the target list.

Visitors to the Temples
Pilgrims often wear auspicious red or saffron. Plenty of other local visitors – including school groups – are around as well.

Shore Temple Roof
This is one of the oldest structural (as opposed to rock-cut) stone temples in Southern India, built with blocks of granite in the Dravidian architectural style.

Indian Palm Squirrel – Funambulus Palmarum

Shore Temple Repairs
Considered the finest early example of medieval southern Indian architecture, after standing by the sea for over 12 centuries, it needs some support and structural repair.

Shore Temple Water Tank
From the water tank, we get a good view over the temple complex.

Pancha Rathas
A short distance away, we enter a grouping of extraordinary monolithic structures: the Pancha Rathas (Five Chariots). They are generally believed to have been carved during the reign of Narasimhavarman I (630–668 CE), but some historians attribute the monuments to Narasimhavarman II (690–725 CE).

Draupadi Ratha Doorway
This unfinished structure is dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Durga; because they were never finished, the rathas were never consecrated, and therefore are not strictly ‘temples’.

Nandi
As the sacred bull of the God Shiva, Nandi often makes an appearance at Hindu sites.

Pilgrims at the Elephant
The site is lively with visitors and pilgrims. The beautifully carved two-storey, Vesara-style ratha next to the elephant here is Nakula Sahadeva, and stands almost 5 m (6 ft) high.

Yudhishtir Ratha
Each of the five monuments in the complex resembles a wooden ‘chariot’ (ratha) – like the palanquins or howdahs used to transport people or deities. Where they are unfinished, you can see how the ratha and the plinth have been carved into a single, long granite monolith.

Pilgrim Family at the Pancha Rathas

Yudhishtir Ratha from the Side
Walking along the outer perimeter of the site, I got a whole new appreciation for the intricate designs.

Bhima Ratha
The largest of the rathas, Bhima is 14 m (46 ft) long and about 7.6 m (25 ft) high and wide. Unlike the other buildings, this ratha has no inscriptions or sculptures.

Kolam Lady
Outside the complex, I stopped to appreciated the rice-flour designs called Kolam, a traditional decorative art originating in Tamil Nadu. Every morning, women draw designs in front of their doorways to bring prosperity to their homes.

Stone Carver
I also had a chat with a local craftsman – possibly a long descendent of those who created these impressive sites.

Krishna Mandapa (Cave)
A short distance away, we find more beautiful carvings telling stories from Hindu mythology and showing scenes of everyday life in 7th-century Tamil Nadu. This complex and extensive rock-cut cave was completed in the mid-7th century.

Descent of the Ganges or Arjuna’s Penance
Considered one of the largest bas-relief works in the world, this intricately chiseled artwork covers two large boulders of pink granite and measures 15 by 30 metres (49 ft × 98 ft). It depicts the elaborate story of how Bhagiratha, a legendary king in Hindu literature, brought the Ganga River to earth to purify the ashes of his relatives, thereby releasing them from their sins.

The Ganesha Ratha
Our walk around the property leads us past the back of another elegant ratha.

Krishna’s Butterball
This boulder and the optical illusion it creates gives tourists some light relief. The name refers to Krishna’s favourite food; it is also called the Stone of the Sky God. Measuring 6 m (20 ft) high and 5 m (16 ft) wide, this precarious-looking rock has been unmoved by kings or earthquakes for as long as anyone can remember.

Adi Varaha Perumal Cave Temple
The last rock-cut cave temple I visited is also the oldest. Dedicated to Vishnu and dated to around 650 CE, the strikingly beautiful and elaborate relief sculptures inside show the God in various different manifestations: here he is a boar, lifting Bhudevi – the mother earth Goddess – up from the sea.

Goats in the Garden
Outside the caves, goats wander around the protected domain …

Mahabalipuram Street
… and in the seaside resort beyond, modern life goes on.