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Bái Tử Long Bay
A Dragon’s Pearl junk at rest in Vườn Quốc Gia Bái Tử Long (Bai Tu Long National Park), North Vietnam.
<<Knock, knock, knock!>> “The cooking class is starting upstairs,” said one of the boat’s crew through a closed cabin door downstairs.
“I guess the optional cooking class is not so ‘optional’!” I whispered to my husband, laughing.
We were already standing in the dining room of our purpose-built traditional Chinese junk, waiting. I was keen to watch and participate in the preparation of our afternoon Vietnamese spring rolls. Plus, I’d forgotten how low temperatures can be in North Vietnam in February, and had no warm clothing in my bag, so I couldn’t stay outside on the upper deck admiring the foggy winter scenery.
We were cruising through the waters between the port city of Halong and protected Bai Tu Long Bay, after being picked up in Hanoi very early that morning (see: Yen Duc Rice Fields). I had visited Halong Bay on a two-day trip with my daughter some eight years before, and had always wanted to revisit with my husband.
The area, which includes over 1600 mostly uninhabited islands and islets, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1994 for its spectacular seascape of limestone karst pillars and its biological interest. Although all activities in the region are under strict regulation to minimise environmental impacts, the increase in tourism along with ongoing marine transport, fisheries, and daily activities of the local people, create a continued tension and challenge.
The region has become increasingly popular and, as a consequence, crowded, so visitors are often steered to Lan Ha Bay, at the south end, or towards the adjoining Bai Tu Long Bay, just north – even though tour operators tend to refer to all of these as “Halong”.
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Bồ Hòn Island
Bồ Hòn Island (Soap-Berry Tree Island) is part of a beautiful chain of islands on Hạ Long Bay. Famous for its view over the World Heritage site waters and for its magnificent caves, it was already a busy and popular stop for visitors eight years ago when I was there. According to local operators, the area is much more crowded today, with as many as 500 boats moored in Halong waters overnight. (Photo: 12January2008)
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Hon Gai International Harbour
That was then; this is now.
Our boat leaves from a completely different harbour, and I miss the hustle and bustle of the commercial docks I’d set off from in 2008 – and that I had already excitedly told my husband about. The afternoon haze bounces off the waters of this quieter harbour as we wait in drizzly winter weather for our tender to collect us.
Our Tender Awaits
Green matting is laid out to keep us from slipping as we make our way down the steep concrete steps to our tender.
Bái Tử Long Bay
Limestone karst islets pass by us as we settle into our cabin.
Ingredients for Spring Rolls
In the teak- and oak-lined dining-room, the fresh and colourful ingredients for the spring rolls we’ve been promised are set out and waiting.
Our Chef and Our Translator
Soon we are joined by the boat’s chef who talks us through the ingredients and process in making the filling for spring rolls.
Breaking Eggs
Eggs help bind the filling mixture.
Adding Flavour
A sprinkle of salt completes the ingredients.
Mixing Spring Rolls
The filling is evenly mixed …
Filling Spring Rolls
… before being spooned into the rice paper and rolled up into neat parcels.
Making Sauce
The chef mixes the dipping sauce before setting us to work filling and folding our own rolls.
Chef in the Galley
We follow the chef into the galley to watch as spring rolls are fried up…
Frying Spring Rolls
… for our afternoon snack.
Ship’s Helmsman and Mate
Up in the wheelhouse, the helmsman and mate are happy to take their eyes off the ‘road’ and flash smiles for the camera.
On the Boat Deck
Passengers brave the cold as our boat continues into the karst cliffs rising all around us.
Boats on Bai Tu Long Bay
Our boat anchors, and we have the opportunity to climb into kayaks and paddle around Cap La Island.
Kayaking at Cap La Island
The paddling warms me up. I am shocked by how dirty the water is with rubbish and slime-slick; between that and the cold air- and water-temperatures, I am surprised that some of our companions choose to go swimming.
Sun Lowering on Bai Tu Long Bay
The sun lowers in the winter sky, the waters go quiet, …
Bai Tu Long Evening
… and the world goes still.
“Lovebirds”
Back in the dining room, the chef shows off his food-decorating skills: a pair of lovebirds carved from turnips wish us good luck and happiness. (iPhone6)
Cruising, cooking class, and kayaking: it was a full day, really.
Top it off with plenty of fresh, tasty food and good drink and company, and you have a satisfying feast.
Dreaming of lovebirds and rocked by gentle waves, we drifted off to sleep…
‘Till next time,
Happy Sailing!
Pictures: 20February2016
[…] Limestone Karst Formations Roughly 20 million years of geological upheaval combined with the effects of erosion have carved out a landscape of caves and hollows and jagged shapes. Happily, the waters here seem cleaner than where we have been kayaking the day before (see: Spring Rolls and Winter Weather). […]
[…] me a chance to go back to Halong Bay (see: Vung Vieng Pearl Farm, Karst Mountains and Caves; and Spring Rolls and Winter Weather), and took us into a region of Vietnam I had always wanted to […]