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Rocky Outcrop
The views over the Sapphire Coast from the Bermagui Coast Walk in the far south of New South Wales on a sunny spring day are breathtaking.
If you are going to be locked in your own region because of Covid-19 border controls, it helps to have a magnificent back yard!
For most of the past almost-two years, those of us in Australia – like people in much of the rest of the world – have been under some level of travel restriction. Part of this period, I couldn’t venture further than five kilometres from home, and even then only for ‘essential purposes’.
Fortunately, I live in a beautiful area, and unlike last year, this year we weren’t hampered by raging bush fires. There were windows of opportunity when the boundaries expanded slightly, and I took advantage of those when I could.
Back in July, the walking group of my regional branch of the National Parks Association was able to meet up – in a Socially-Distanced manner, of course – for a short walk in Ben Boyd National Park, which is literally on my doorstep.
I’ve done this walk before (see: In the Aussie Bush), but what amazes me when I looked back over the pictures from both visits, is how many differences there were in what caught my attention. Both times I’ve done this undulating 6 kilometre (return) walk, we started at Haycock Point picnic area, had our picnic lunches on Barmouth Beach, and then returned.
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Roos in the Grass
On a flat area just north of our starting spot at the Haycock Point picnic area, a couple of eastern grey kangaroos (macropus giganteus) are resting in the grass.
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Haystack Rock
Haycock Point gives us views over the rock platform to the dome-shaped Haystack Rock. The iron-oxide that colours these red, riverine rocks is a relic of the atmospheric oxygen from the Devonian Age.
Colours of the Sapphire Coast
The variations of the blues in the waters are impressive against the layers of colour in the rocky coast.
Colourful Lichens and Tumbled Rock
The fungus on the boulders, and the shrubs on cliff face, are a veritable patchwork of hues and textures.
New Holland Honeyeater – Phylidonyris Novaehollandiae
The Jagged Shore
From the cliff tops, a break in the heath, banksia, and gum trees, allows us views back over the coast to Haystack Rock. The SS Empire Gladstone survived World War II only to ground – without loss of life, fortunately – on the rocks on the south side of this spit in 1950. The sunken ship is now a popular dive site.
Arched Rock Lookout
Shortly, we come to another break in the overgrowth, where we have views over an unnamed arch of rock.
The Unnamed Arch
This unusual rock arch is just one of the many craggy sculptures created by the eroding forces of the ocean.
Pambula Beyond
Around the next bend, the colours of the water deepen at the mouth of the Pambula River, and parts of the small town of the same name come into view.
Red Rocks on Barmouth Beach Below
Silver Gull – Chroicocephalus Novaehollandiae
A hopeful gull watches us as we lunch.
After lunch on the beach, we walked back the way we had come …
Some months later, in spring – and after another lockdown spell – I had the opportunity to do a walk that I had always promised myself: overlooking the Horse Head Rock near Wallaga Lake.
My walking companion and I started with a late lunch in Bermagui before driving a short way north and parking the car at Hayward Point. From there, we picked up the walking track that follows the old Tilba Road. In spite of being unpaved until 1963, this was the main road into Bermagui from the north-south Princes Highway. It threaded its way between the Long Swamp Nature Reserve and the Pacific Ocean. Sections of the road washed away in the 1970s, before it finally became a cycle- and waking-track.
Bermagui to the South
We start our walk at Hayward Point, where we can look south over the beach to the little coastal town of Bermagui …
North from Hayward Point
… and north along the empty sandy coastline.
Long Swamp Flora and Fauna Reserve
After walking a short way, we are on a slight ridge with water on both sides: Hayward Beach drops down to Horseshoe Bay and the Pacific Ocean on the right, and Long Swamp stretches out along the left.
Coastal Banksia – Banksia Integrifolia
Pig Face Yellow – Lampranthus Glaucus
When we come back into the open, pig face – or ice flowers – are defending the sands from erosion.
Branching Trees
The path leads us under the trees, …
Camel Rock
… and back to the cliffs overlooking the aptly-named Camel Rock.
Rocks on the Sapphire Coast
Even the unnamed rocks are pretty impressive!
Daisies on the Path
Horse Head Rock
The next feature is the one I have been waiting for: Horse Head Rock, which is believed to be approximately 500 million years old!
Sandbar and Wallaga Lake
Our walking path ends near Murunna Point, where we admire the sand bar that keeps Wallaga Lake separated from the Pacific Ocean …
White-Bellied Sea Eagle – Haliaeetus Leucogaster
… and a white-bellied sea-eagle circles overhead. Raptors always get my attention, and although I never get ‘the shot’ I want, I love watching them soar.
Cobargo-Bermagui Road
As stunning as the coastal walks are, driving home through the verdant fields is just as beautiful! (iPhone12Pro)
Wherever you have found yourself in this strange and
locked-down world, I hope you have some natural beauty to comfort you, and blue skies overhead.
Until next time –
Stay Safe!
Photos: 18July2021 and 22October2021
