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Vega de Sotres
A late-afternoon Spanish sun slants over walkers on an ancient track in the magnificent Picos de Europa in Asturias.
This is a long way from the Southern Spanish beaches of the Costa del Sol that are favoured by crowds of Northern European visitors who want to sit in the sun!
Here, at the opposite end of the country – in Asturias, Northern Spain – stunning craggy mountains rise up in all directions. The wilds are punctuated only by small mountain villages and collections of ancient shepherd’s huts, connected by narrow winding roads and walking tracks. Thanks to a typical Atlantic climate, temperatures tend to be moderate, and there is a chance of rain or snow throughout most of the year. Visitors to this part of the country are looking for rugged outdoor activities like mountain climbing, canyoning, kayaking, and hiking.
The Picos de Europa are part of the Cantabrian Mountains in northern Spain. They stretch across the autonomous communities of Asturias, Cantabria, and León, and are almost wholly contained within an eponymous national park. First established in Cantabria in 1918, and expanded to its current size in 1995 and 2014, the park achieved UNESCO Biosphere Reserve status in 2003.
The almost 650 square kilometre (just under 250 square miles) park includes 11 rural villages, making it Spain’s only inhabited nature reserve. People have lived in this demanding environment for many generations. They still make artisanal foods and drinks, operate traditional cottage industries, and follow their herds of goats and lambs into the wild pastures – all while surrounded by over 200 jagged limestone peaks higher than 2000 metres (1.24 miles), and divided from their neighbours by deep and spectacular gorges. The region is isolated enough that it is still reputedly home to Cantabrian brown bears (Ursus arctos pyrenaicus) and Iberian wolves (Canis lupus signatus) – not that we ventured far enough into the more remote regions to spot any! On one walk, however, we did see a small herd of the more common rebeccos (Cantabrian chamois – Rupicapra pyrenaica parva).
I was in the region for an Introductory Spanish course at the Peak Me language school in Panes, not far outside the Picos de Europa National Park. Our small group did class work in the mornings, and then went for hikes in the afternoons with a guide from Canoe Adventure Trophy.
The tiny village of Panes is well placed to take advantage of some well-marked walks through the magnificent scenery nearby. On our third afternoon, for example, we drove north and then walked a section of trail along the Cantabrian Coast (see: An Afternoon Walk in España Verde). And, the town itself – especially with its arboretum, the Botanical Garden of Panes, a project developed over the previous five years by the Peñamellera Baja City Council – was a great place for my morning walks, and longer explorations.
On our penultimate day at the school, we took our last walk into the Picos de Europa, following a section of the Vega de Sotres and the Ruta de la Reconquista.
Do join us!
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Panes Botanical Gardens
Our class orientation walk took us past the wonderful green spaces along the Deva River (iPhone6).
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Iglesia de San Andres de Sieḥu
Panes has several churches – I’m not sure if this Medieval stone building is still operational (iPhone6).
Village Walk
The back streets are narrow and winding, crowded with tall, colourful buildings (iPhone6).
Ermita de San Juan de Ciliergo
Another walk takes me past the ruins of an old church, first built in 1184. (iPhone6)
“A Little Estate”
Outside the main street of Panes, the properties – mostly farms and apple orchards – look quite historic.
Panes
From the hills, there are nice views back over the town and the mountains.
Classroom Daydreams
Even while class is in session, I can enjoy views over the nearby hills (iPhone6).
Tunnel House
In the afternoon, we follow the road into the Picos de Europa, past an extraordinary tunnel house, high over the Río Cares in Poncebos (iPhone6).
On the Vega de Sotres
Our transport drops us just outside the village of Sotres, and our guide Vivi leads off down the trail.
Invernales del Texu
We pass a collection old cabins and livestock barns or majadas, built by local shepherds as ‘winters’ to protect themselves – and their goats and sheep – from the inclement mountain weather. Buildings like these are still in regular use (see: The Last of the Vegas de Sotres).
Cows on the Bend
There is a fork in the trail: that path follows the Vega de Urriellu to Pandébano and beyond, …
Nuestro Guíe Vivi – Our Guide Vivi
… whereas we are following another section of La Ruta de la Reconquista (The Reconquest Route).
After a battle in Covadonga in 718 to reclaim the Peninsula from the Muslim conquest, a handful of Cantabrian and Asturian rebels who were cornered fled across the Picos de Europa using this route. Unfortunately, they were ultimately buried by a landslide in Cosgaya.
Jagged Rocks
Classified as alpine karst, the meadows are punctuated by jagged limestone peaks and rivers of scree.
Walkers on the Path
The Río Duje is far below us as we find a good pace downhill. Coming back might not be so easy!
Grassy Slope
These mountain grasses are what attracted the wandering shepherds.
Rocky Ridge
Glaciers rolled through these mountains – leaving behind jagged ridges above, racing rivers below, and some perennial snow patches hidden away.
No Ensucien el Agua – Don’t Dirty the Water
Stone Buildings – Stony Crags
More of the Invernales del Texu to protect shepherds against the cold. According to Wikipedia, the walls are [made] without mortar, but they look pretty solid.
Rebeccos
If you squint, you’ll see the Cantabrian chamois (Rupicapra pyrenaica parva) on the hill; it is starting to darken, and they are a fair distance.
Rocky Bight
As we make our way back up the hill, the shadows lengthen …
Huts in the Valley
… and the last light barely warms the rocky mountaintops.
Apples for the Cows
This man was originally from the French end of these northern mountains and valleys, so I was able to chat with him. He told me he comes out every day to make sure the nursing mums get a fresh apple or two to supplement their diets.
Mountaintops and Rooftops
When we return to our starting point, our van is waiting to drive us to Sotres, which, at 1050 metres (3445 feet), is the highest village in Asturias.
Main Street – Sotres
It is seven-thirty in the evening – but the Spanish eat dinner late, so we stop for a quick drink in the charming hotel that is named for the nearby mountain, Peña Castil.
Back in Panes, I have time for a shower before we head to a restaurant across the river to partake of the local specialties – notably the local cheeses and natural cider (sidra). This cider has to be poured from a great height to oxygenate it – and then must be drunk in one go, as soon as it is poured.
When in Asturias …
Pictures: 23-28September2019
