
Boats off Bang Rak Beach, Mermaid Resort, Koh Samui
White coral sands, emerald green seas, copious sunshine and fresh, briny salt air: truly a perfect three days. A little more wind would have been nice, especially as we were trying to sail, but really – you can’t have everything!
Whenever we are on one of Thailand’s many islands, we try to spend some time on the water: whether that be a romantic sunset cruise, a busy island- and beach-hopping trip on a speedboat, a slow snorkelling trip on one of the fishing boats outfitted for tourists, a kayak paddle through limestone caves, or a quiet sail around one of the many bays. On our most recent trip to Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand, we decided to practice our nascent sailing skills, and chartered a small (26′ Mac Gregor) sailboat and skipper for three days.
Our experiences of boats and skippers in Thailand have been patchy: we’ve sailed with some excellent and knowledgeable people, young and older, from around the world. But we’ve also had trips where the dinghy has been lost, the motor has refused to work, the water has run out and the food has spoilt. We’ve slept aboard in stiflingly hot berths over noisy motors or under dripping hatches where we fight off mosquitos. So, I was really pleased when I found out that Armin Kundke (Kunta), the owner-operator of Samui Ocean Sports & Yacht Charter, rather than one of his staff, was to be our sailing and island guide. I’ve no doubt that the staff are excellent, but it’s always better to deal with the boss!
The Samui archipelago must be one of the safest, most pleasant places to sail: the surrounding Gulf ensures that the waves virtually never exceed ten feet in height, the waters are warm enough for swimming and clear enough that you can easily see the coral reefs and other underwater obstacles, and a safe, secluded shelter is never far away. Ideal for us. And the dearth of wind just meant more time for me to take pictures.

Skipper Kunta keeps a watchful eye as the helmsman steers a course.

With our dinghy firmly in tow, we leave the Big Buddha and Koh Samui behind us.

After only two hours on the water, the coast of Koh Phangan is within reach.
Even with low winds, we reached our first coral reef and snorkel-spot off Haad Rin Nok in less than two hours. After a splash around in the water, we climbed back aboard our boat, the Viva 2, for the short cruise around the next point before anchoring at our lunch destination.

The waters of Koh Samui and Koh Phangan are quiet, giving a feeling of peace.

Our tattered flag waves as we leave Laem Ta To (Koh Phangan) behind.

One of Thailand's most iconic spots: the wooden walkway on Haad Yuan, Koh Phangan.

Thai food is always fresh and tasty; at the Bamboo Hut, Haad Yuan, it is served up with a peerless view.

The locals are pretty chilled-out; the living is easy on Haad Yuan.

Visitors lounge on beach chairs on a postcard-perfect beach. Haad Yuan, Koh Phangan.

The rocks take on beautiful shapes: I thought this looked like an elephant bathing.

Long afternoon shadows on the sands of Haad Yao.

Almost deserted ~ Haad Yao in the afternoon.

Walk with me... Haad Yao

The beautiful lines and finish of the Naga make us feel very rough and small by comparison!

Low afternoon light falls on the rocky islands of the east coast of Koh Phangan.
A backpacker haven, Koh Phangan attracts a lot of budget travellers who come in from the mainland on the regular ferry runs. It featured in the 1996 novel “The Beach” (although the movie of the same name was filmed on Koh Phi Phi, quite some distance away) and is probably best known for its riotous all-night Full Moon parties which draw young Westerners to the island in over-crowded boat-loads.
So, it was a pleasant surprise to see quiet beach after quiet beach on the less-populated east coast as we sailed north, and to find charming little resorts nestled into the hillsides. For the most part, big-money developments haven’t made it here yet, and the parts of the island we saw retain the beach-castaway feel – but with the modern comforts of hot water, air conditioning, and wifi.
At Haad Than Sadet, where we stayed overnight in modest bungalows, we had the added bonus of a superb breakfast – an absolute treat in Thailand where “American Breakfast” is the one meal that small “resorts” generally ruin – before setting sail and motor again for points north.

A tiny swallow catches a lift in our shrouds as we head north.

Low-lying waters between Haad Mae Haad and Koh Ma.

Cleaning the Floats

Anchored in Mae Haad Bay

I had a long chat with Chai, a local who has fished these waters for 20+ years. He introduced me to WindGURU, an internet site designed for wind- and kite-surfers, etc. to predict weather conditions.

Little treasure: nestled in on the corner of a beach massage table is the owner's grand daughter.

As we head back to Ao Thong Nai Pan Yai for the night, heavily laden fishing boats head out.

The winds die and the sun lowers, so we chug back to harbour.
On our third morning, after another excellent breakfast at the Dolphin Bungalows, we set off south for a short walk and jungle swim in COLD water before returning to Koh Samui.

A favourite location for generations of Thai Kings, the waterfalls of Than Sadet are a perfect place to cool off.

A white dog joins us on our visit to the upper falls.

The beach chairs of Haad Than Sadet sit empty.

Sails

Almost abstract: Tatters and Tails

Riding home.

Shackles and Bits

Samui in sight.
What a perfect place!
We’ll be back one day ~ hopefully with a bit more wind.
WOW…Magic and how Beautiful. I can only imagine living in such an idyllic location, those houses above Haad Than Sadet are amazing and to think of that view on your doorstep every day is what dreams are made of, a boat to sail the local waters can’t imagine anything more.
Indeed, Signe – it was fabulous! 🙂
Dear Ursula and Gabe,
thank you so much for the good reviews, really apreciate and had a great time with you on this cruise! Super nice Blog you made there with wonderful pictures! hope you come sailing soon again, there is a lot more out there to explore!
all the best
Kunta
[with an Austrian accent] Ve’ll be BACK! 🙂
In Holland it’s still cold. a little bit warm I get it from your nice story and images. Greetings Dietmut
I’m glad you enjoyed it, Dietmut. I’d love to get to Holland for the spring flowers one year! Enjoy. 🙂