Rainy Alpine Hillsides: Leysin, Switzerland

Ever since reading Heidi as a child, and “studying” Switzerland in Grade 3 Social Studies, I have dreamed of walking in the flower-filled meadows of the Swiss Alps. When my husband and I planned to visit some Swiss friends last year, I thought my chance had come.

Alas, being geographically challenged as I am, I didn’t realise how much of Switzerland is actually the rolling, lake-filled central plateau, or Mittelland. Like two-thirds of the population, this is where our friends have their home: “You do know, don’t you, that we don’t live in the mountains? Zurich is in the “Low Country!”

So, if I wanted Heidi’s mountains, I needed a Plan B.

I booked an extra week in Leysin, a village at 1263 metres in the Vaud Alps, high above Aigle in the Rhone Valley (q.v.: A Walk through the Waters), home to international schools and a sports academy, and reputed to be a year-round holiday resort with access to hiking and mountain-biking trails. I imagined myself singing “The Hills are Alive” (ok – wrong country, but same mountain chain…)

Of course, when we arrived, it rained, rained, and rained some more. We mostly travelled down the hill, rather than up, to try to escape the wet mountain weather (see: Castles, Cheese and Chocolate; The Salt Mines; Lake Geneva’s Medieval Fortress).

One day, when we thought there was enough of a break in the rain, we attempted a hike up hill: aiming for the Berneuse (2048 m.), a near-by mountain-top with a glass revolving restaurant reputed to provide a 360° panoramic view of the Valais mountains and over the Rhône Valley to the Dents du Midi, Lake Geneva and the Jura Mountains.

After we set off, however, the rains started again. With umbrellas and raincoats, we slogged up hill, hoping it would ease – which it did, but not soon enough. Wet to the skins, the highest point we reached was Le Témeley, a fromagerie-buvette (“cheese-refreshment” house) at 1705 metres; well short of our original aim.

Even though we walked half as far as we had planned, we arrived back at our lodge wetter and more tired than I had expected. The cold mountain rains had sucked all the warmth and energy out of us. But, we enjoyed our evening meal all the more for it.

I’m stuck in an armchair at the moment, with a pair of crutches at my side. It was another mountain that put me here – well, to be fair, it wasn’t the mountain’s fault: the Australian spring snow was heavy, my ski bindings were too tight, and I took a clumsy fall. No “weight-bearing” for many weeks for me.

So, I sit dreaming of walks in mountains.

Even a wet, cold walk has its beauty – and is better than no walk at all.

‘Till next time,

Happy Rambles!

Pictures: 20-24July2014