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Flying the Greek Flag
On the craggy outcrops above the very pretty Preveli Beach, a flag proudly heralds our location.
If you want to knock the long-haul fatigue out of your mind and legs, I can think of no better way than a visit to a Cretan beach.
But, I clearly didn’t fully understand the trip description! The fact that I was – by far – the oldest person on the tour bus should have given me a hint.
Preveli (accent on the first syllable) Beach, on the south coast of Crete, with its unique palm-lined river flowing into the Libyan Sea, is touted as stunningly beautiful.
Which it undoubtedly is.
It is also a 250m (820 ft) drop in altitude from the bus parking lot – which means you access it via a steep, rocky track better suited to mountain goats than my old legs! Going down was testing on my thighs and knees; coming back up in the midday heat – no shade in sight – was nothing short of gruelling! You can actually drive to sea level on the other side, and access the beach via a five-minute walk. But then – as one site pointed out – you miss out on the spectacular view from the tall cliffs on the west side.
Of course, being at the mercy of tour buses or convoluted public transport, I went where I was taken!
The beach is delightful, and visitors – mostly from Northern Europe – were enjoying Grecian September sun and the warm waters of the Libyan Sea. Not being much of a beach person myself, I followed a narrow sandy path through a unique forest of Cretan date palms, up-river along the Mégas Potamós – the Great River. Officially called Theophrastus palms (Phoenix theophrasti), these trees are distinct from the more common date palms (Phoenix Dactylifera) that they resemble. They are only found on Crete and in limited other locations around the Aegean. Remarkably, this particular forest, and thousands of hectares of land in the region, was razed by fire in August 2010. You’d never know it today!
I was in search of a waterfall I was told was twenty minutes up-river, but when I hit a wall of boulders, I had found no more than a few little trickles over rocks. It was a very pretty area, even so.
Recognising my limits – still being exhausted from travelling across more than half the world – I turned back. I had taken note note of what the down-hill trek felt like, and was determined to set back up the hill early and give myself plenty of time to pause and recover.
But, the hard work was unquestionably worth it – as I’m sure you will agree.
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North Coast
The bus follows the highway along the rugged coast of Crete between my starting point near Heraklion, and the turn south at Rethimno. (iPhone12Pro)
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Big Buses – Narrow Roads -Rocks Falling
After turning south into even more rugged terrain, we follow another tour bus through the breath-taking Kourtaliotiko Gorge. (iPhone12Pro)
Asomatos Hills
Finally out of the gorge, the sea is just visible in the distance, and the fields whizzing past are patterned with crops, orchards, and olive groves.
Glimpses of the Libyan Sea
We watch as the sea comes into view. Meanwhile, our tour guide gives us an overview of the place we are going to visit in four languages! (iPhone12Pro)
At the Top
When we finally arrive at the top of the cliff, the almost-noon-day sun is pounding on the earth …
The Impossible Brightness
… and mountains in the distance float over the Libyan Sea. That is probably Gavdos, the southernmost Greek island, to the right. But we are only a few hundred kilometers from Libya and that may be what we can see on the distant horizon.
A Dramatic Coastline
The water changes colour from one minute to the next, and the beautiful coastline stretches out forever.
Preveli Beach Is a Long Way Down!
As I continue to pick my way along the rocky path, I can see the resort that allows access to the beach from the other side.
Preveli Beach
Those beautiful turquoise waters are getting closer …
A Steep and Rocky Path
… but the path remains treacherous, requiring constant attention.
Preveli Beach and the Palm Forest
Finally, we get a view over the fabled palms that line the riverbanks of the Great River.
The Palm Forest
Odysseus, the King of Ithaca and the bane of High School English students, reputedly stayed near here, and there is a magical story (which I cannot entirely remember or find on line!) about the origins of this forest. What is scientifically remarkable is the rarity of these palms – named Phoenix Theophrasti for the Grecian scholar of botany – and their ability to recover from fire.
Lookout Overhead
When I look up, I can see that I have made progress, …
Incoming Boat
… but I admit: I’m starting to feel a little envious of those who are coming in by boat!
Rocks in the Bay
More Boats – More Rocks
Noon-Heat Pounding
Just a few more bends in the pathway, …
In the Waters
… and finally! We can appreciate the beach itself.
Where in the World?
Many of us have come a long way to be here!
Into the Palm Forest
Rather than swimming or sunbathing, I follow the sandy path upstream through the palm and oleander forest.
In the River
Majestic cliffs rise up all around, but even so, Great River (Μέγας Ποταμός – Mégas Potamós) seems a rather ambitious name for a river you can literally wade up! Elsewhere, I have found it named the Kourtaliotis River for the gorge where it originates, or the Kissano Faraggi.
Rocks in the River
There is meant to be a waterfall here somewhere, …
Trickles over Rocks
… but the canyon was blocked with rocks. I made do with this little cascade.
Tree on the Canyon Wall
It is incredible to me the way life clings to these almost-bare rocks!
A Primordial Landscape
This landscape took its current shape about 3-4 million years ago, but I can imagine dinosaurs wandering here. More recent animal fossils: giant tortoises, crocodiles, squirrels, wild boars, and antelope among them, have been found in the area.
Sandy Path
Following the same gritty-sandy path back, …
Down Stream
… I soon glimpse the beach at the river’s mouth.
Rocks on the Beach
Back at the beach, people are rock-climbing, sun-baking, or enjoying the water.
Bougainvillea and Old Props
I opt for a Greek coffee in the semi-shade. Named for the Moni Preveli Monastery nearby, these lands are now protected under the Natura 2000 program, meaning permanent facilities are limited.
Narrow Path
Too soon it is time to start clambering back up that goat track.
A Rugged Coast
I make plenty of stops on the way back up the hill – ostensibly to admire the coastline.
Berries
… or the local vegetation.
Steep Stairs
One Last Look
Naturally, I make another stop at the lookout, before dragging my tired self back the rest of the way to the top.
Fortunately, at the top of the hill, the bus was waiting with the air-conditioner running!
Once I sat down, I felt quite proud of myself and forgot how tired I was.
Certainly, the walk was worth it!
Pictures: 04September2022
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