Postcards from Jordan

Water merging into air over a Dead Sea landscape, Jordan.

The Dead Sea
It’s a magnificent landscape: desert light shimmers over the dense salty waters of the Dead Sea in Jordan.

Jordan is one of those places where I’d go back.

I’ve had a lifelong love of deserts, and a fascination with Lawrence of Arabia. So, to walk and camel-ride in Lawrence’s boot-steps in the magically beautiful sculpted desert landscape of Wadi Rum was an absolute dream-come-true (see: Desert Rains and the Seven Pillars of Wisdom; A Morning in Wadi Rum). I also loved the stories, the colours, and the textures of the breathtakingly beautiful Nabatean cities of Petra and Little Petra (see: Nabatean), and could have used more time in that whole area.

At just over 89,000 square kilometres of semi-arid country, Jordan is relatively small. But, it sits at the crossroads of Asia, Africa, and Europe, and has borne witness to at least 200,000 years of civilisations and migrations. The evidence of this history that still sits on the landscape just is amazing! As well as the Nabateans, the Romans left their mark (see: Ancient Jerash) – as did the early Christians (see: Shobak and Mosaics and Churches). Today’s population of 10 million people is 98% ethnic Arab; although about 84% of people live in the cities, they still cherish their nomadic desert roots. This is evident in all aspects of culture, food, art, and dress.

I only spend a week in the country, but with a small bus and a good guide, we criss-crossed north-to-south and back again, taking in a wide variety of sites, and stopping at some roadstops full of fascinating offerings for tourists.

My last afternoon was spent at the Citadel, an archeological park at the center of downtown Amman which epitomises the long and varied history of the country. Although most of the ruins and structures still visible at the site are from the Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods, evidence of Neolithic and Bronze Age inhabitation has also been found on the hill.

Join me on some Jordanian roads and road stops

Commercial hangers, Queen Alia International Airport, Jordan

On the Tarmac
Even from the airplane window as you land at the Queen Alia International Airport, you get a sense of a modern world blending into a desert landscape. (iPhone6S)

Straight highway lined with light poles, Jordan.

View from the Bus
Jordan has a relatively modern educational system, which probably helps with maintaining decent roads and infrastructure.

Ornate Inlaid Furniture – Midway Castle
There some extraordinary things for sale at the various highway rest stops! (iPhone6S)

Spices and Resins
Spices and scents are available everywhere – as are cremes, lotions, clothing, and souvenirs. (iPhone6S)

Our Guide
On our bus rides, our guide kept us oriented, educated, and entertained …

Scenes from the Bus
… as the magnificent desert landscapes flew past. This is around Wadi Rum, where rock mountains and mesas were thrown high above sea level by tectonic shifts, and carved by millenia of fierce winds and blowing sand.

Valley Gulf
At a roadstop further north, near the top end of Valley Gulf, the sculpted mountains rise in the east over the Dead Sea Highway.

Almost Abstract : Scenes from a Bus
Floating off into a haze of heat and power lines, the south end of the Dead Sea comes into view.

Edge of the Dead Sea
The high mineral content of the Dead Sea makes for rich colours in the early afternoon light.

Lot’s Wife
On the other side of the road stands Lot’s wife, who, according to the Book of Genesis, was turned into a pillar of salt for looking back at Sodom.

Down to the Beach
Once we are checked into our room for the night, we can walk down to the Dead Sea itself.

Beach on the Dead Sea
Between climate change and excess use of water up-stream, the Dead Sea is receding dramatically – and the walk across the beach is a lot further than it used to be. Israel is hiding a short distance away, in the heat haze on the horizon.

That’s Me – in the Dead Sea!
When in Jordan … you have to cover yourself in black mud, and have a float … It is actually harder than it looks! If you are not careful, you can be flipped over.

Night Lights
By complete contrast, Amman, the capital of Jordan, is vibrant and modern.

The Beautiful People After Dark
With a population of over 4 million, it houses almost 40% of Jordan’s population, and is the fifth-largest city in the Arab world.

Blue Amman
The roof of our hotel gives me a good view over the darkening city.

Information Panels
The Amman Citadel, in the middle of downtown, has a long history of occupation by many civilizations. Stylish stone information signs as you enter the site outline some of this history. The Greeks called the city Philadelphia; the Rashidun Caliphate took the city from the Byzantines in the 7th century CE and restored its ancient Semitic name of Amman.

In the Ruins
A large part of the Citadel has not been excavated; ruins scatter the ground and the unfinished Roman Temple of Hercules sits at the height.

Temple of Hercules
According to an inscription, this temple was built some time between 162 and 166 CE. Archaeologists believe it was not finished, and that it suffered later earthquake damage.

The Roman Theatre
Where you had Romans, you had a theatre! The city has grown around this 6,000-seat, 2nd-century theatre, which sits on a hill opposite the Amman Citadel.

Pillars at the Roman Temple of Hercules

Gateway of the Umayyad Palace
The palace here was built between 661 and 750 CE, during the second caliphate after the death of the prophet Muhammad. Much of the palace is in ruins, but the domed entrance, known as the “kiosk” or the “monumental gateway”, has been restored.