Petra : Nabataean Marvel and Architectural Jewel (1), Jordan

The Treasury
Who can forget their first sighting of the awe-inspiring Hellenistic-style mausoleum known as Al-Khazneh, The Treasury! Hewn out of the pink sandstone rock face, it stands almost 40 meters (121 ft) tall. The beautifully carved tholos near the top depicts two victories on either side of a female figure, believed to be the goddess Isis-Tyche.

The ancient Nabatean/Nabataean city of Petra is an absolute marvel.

UNESCO-World Heritage Listed for its “Outstanding Universal Value” and chosen as one of the New 7 Wonders of the World, the capital city that the Nabateans cut into the steep pink cliffs of iron-laden sandstone is extraordinarily beautiful.

The city is believed to have been established as early as 312 BC as a trading post by the Nabateans, an Arab Bedouin tribe who emerged as a distinct civilization between the 4th and 2nd centuries BC. These fiercely independent nomads were accustomed to living in these barren deserts that now comprise southwestern Jordan. Their skills in taking advantage of the area’s mountainous terrain, harvesting and managing rainwater, supporting agriculture, and carving stone, led to their becoming prosperous traders who established successful settlements all along the Incense Road. At its peak, the city of Petra housed between 10,000 and 30,000 residents.

In ancient times, Petra might have been approached by a track from the south or via the high plateau to the north, but most modern visitors come in from the east. Starting at the Visitor Centre and Ticket Office, a path runs down to the entry of the natural winding rocky cleft called the Siq. This 1.2km (0.75m) long gorge once had the Wadi Musa streambed running through it. The Nabataeans built a system of dams, cisterns, and conduits that diverted water, creating an artificial oasis and protecting the area from flash flooding.

Petra declined under Roman rule, in part from the gradual changes in trade routes. The Galilee earthquakes in 363 AD damaged buildings and – more importantly – the sophisticated water management system. Residents gradually moved on, and by 700 AD only a scattering of Bedouin lived in and around the city. It was subsequently forgotten by all except a few locals.

The Swiss traveller Johann Ludwig Burckhardt was the first European to describe the site after finding it during his travels of 1812. Today, more than a million tourists visit every year.

I was lucky enough to be one of those visitors in 2019, before the world stopped for Covid.

I was with a group, and had two days in the area with our guide. We started with a morning tour of the smaller – and probably younger – site of Little Petra or Siq al-Barid (Cold Canyon) (see: Little Petra). This provided a bite-sized introduction to the magnificent Nabatean architecture.

In the afternoon, we walked as through the Siq and to The Treasury, with our guide pointing out all kinds of details which I have since forgotten. We made our way back out of the Wadi Musi on our own, knowing we’d have time to explore more fully the next day.

Join me for some first-day highlights as I walk through the stunning gorge towards the famous Treasury:

Djinn Blocks
Looking at the sandstone rock formations as you walk into the UNESCO site, it can be hard to discern the natural forms from those carved by the Nabateans over 2000 years ago. The Djinn Blocks are named for the djinns, the genies or spirits, who lived around here. Although no one is quite sure what the purpose of the blocks was, some suggest they are actually funerary monuments.

Obelisk Tomb and the Winding Path
You need water, good shoes, and a hat: it is a three kilometre walk along the Bab as-Siq, the road to the Siq, and through the canyon to the famous Treasury. But, there is plenty to look at along the way. An inscription inside this tomb close to the entry indicates it was probably built in the first century CE.

Petra Landscape

Obelisk Tomb
Further down the path allows a better view of the structure of the Obelisk Tomb: the lower story is a triclinium, a formal dining room for funeral banquets, and the second story contained loculi – little niches – and shaft-graves to house all the family members “forever after”.

Spice Seller
The Bedouins never fully left this area, and some are still enthusiastic sellers of spices and incense.

Kohl Eyes and a Silver Janbiya
They say Captain Jack Sparrow was modelled on Keith Richards, but I was often reminded of him here. (iPhone6)

Textured Canyon Walls
The walls of the canyon, once we enter it, are textured by time, and punctuated with carvings.

Aedicula in the Siq
I learned a lot of classic architectural terms while trying to make sense of the carvings in the sandstone! This weathered aedicula – or niche – on the north of the Siq probably contained a small shrine.

Another Aedicula
The gorge broadens out, and another aedicula is carved into a boulder in the middle. On one canyon wall there was a water-dripping shrine; on the other side there is a cistern.

Sculptured Sandstone in the Siq

Light at the end of the Canyon
It is hard to describe the scale of the colonnades of The Treasury, as you first glimpse them though the steep and dark canyon walls.

Through the Siq

Al-Khazneh – The Treasury

Rain at Al-Khazneh
Although this was built as a mausoleum, legends talk of treasures hidden inside. This led to the name Khazneh el-Far’oun : “Treasury of the Pharaoh”, and the damage done by people over the years looking for riches.

Camel Waiting
In the forecourt, decorated camels are ready to give rides to tourists.

Bedouin in a Black Keffiyeh

Sand Art
The Outer Siq is scattered with souvenir shops showcasing Nabatean crafts, arts, and foods.

Sand in a Bottle
A craftsman shows us how the bottles are made: he adds colored sand slowly with a thin stick or funnel, painting the desired picture one layer at a time.

Bedouin Sand Artist

Street of Facades
Nabataean burial facades line both sides of the widening Siq.

Back into the Gorge
This is only a short introductory visit, …

Riders in the Siq
… and we are soon walking back through the gorge.

Greenery in the Chasm
Plants cling to life on the canyon walls where waters run down; dams like the brick one on the left here break the force of waters that rushes down into the Siq during the rainy season.

A Narrow Cleft
At its narrowest point the walls of the gorge are only 3 metres (10 feet) apart.

Last Looks
In some places, the ancient (or renovated?) road bed is still visible.

I was absolutely awestruck – and so pleased that I had the chance to return the next day and visit some of the other remarkable ruins and remains that Petra has to offer.

Until then,