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Guard in an Alcove
The security detail in Amer Fort – which is perched on a hill outside Rajasthan’s capital, Jaipur – is ready with a smile for the visitor.
When I think of northern India, it is the incredible Rajput (Hindu) and Mughal (Islamic) architecture of Rajasthan that I remember: fortified walls and sandstone edifices climbing across hillsides; exquisite turrets floating in the hot, dusty air; delicate lattice work shielding windows and casting intricate shadow patterns in the cloistered rooms behind them.
But, I also think of the people: tall, elegant people with dark eyes and quick smiles; casually seated in corners or lounging in doorways – almost as if they are waiting for someone with a camera to notice how perfectly they compliment their surroundings. Without hesitation, they pose, or they hug the foreign tourist and lean in for a quick “selfie” with their new “friend”.
Amer (Amber) Fort, in Amber (or Amer – the spelling seems to be interchangeable!), the small town 11 kilometers from Jaipur which was Rajasthan’s capital until 1727, has both: magnificent architecture and people ready and willing to be photographed.
Built by Rajput prince Raja Man Singh in 1592 out of sandstone and marble on the site of an 11th century fort, this multi-layered enclosure of courtyards, palaces, halls, and gardens climbs up a hillside overlooking Maotha Lake. It is one of the six “Hill Forts of Rajasthan” designated on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 2013 for their “testimony to the power of the Rajput princely states that flourished in the region from the 8th to the 18th centuries.”
When I visited the fort in 2013 as part of a Jim Cline Photo Tour with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh, I had fond memories of my first trip there with my husband, some five years before.
It was as beautiful as I remembered.
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Amer Fort
From the other side of Maotha Lake, we can see the paths zig-zagging up the hill towards different fortress entry gates.
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Hindu Shrine
You are never far from a Hindu shrine in India! This small one honouring Lord Brahma affords a view of the extensive fort on the hill.
Dil Aram Bagh and Hillside Ruins
On the northern end of the lake, we will cross past the pergolas in the 18th century Dil Aaram Bagh garden.
Young Women
A group of women who have finished their morning visit of the fort pause for a quick picture.
Feeding the Birds
Our guide DV took a few minutes to feed the pigeons before we rounded the lake.
Fort on the Lake
Fresh Food Cart
Women on the Steps
On the steps, women in their colourful saris stop to rest and chat.
Woman in the Ruins
Near the ruins at the top of hill, I came across the incongruous sight of a woman in a beautiful sari searching through the rubble; I have no idea what she was hoping to find.
View from the Hill
From the top, there are views back over town, and to the fortified walls that continue along the ridge of the hills in the distance.
Family on the Steps
At another rise in the stairs, a large group gathers for a rest.
Angel-Face
The youngest member of the group was very excited with her orange soft drink. Nail polish and kohl or eyeliner is common on children in India.
Security Guard
There is a visible security presence around the fort, …
Security Guard
… but the guards are all very friendly.
Ganesh Pol Entrance
The palace buildings are beautiful; this shot is an old one from my first visit in 2008.
Visitors to the Fort
Amer Fort is one of India’s most-visited forts; most of those visitors are from other parts of the country.
Visitors to the Fort
A young couple poses at a window overlooking the fortress turrets and hills behind.
Marble Arches
A courtyard houses the Diwan-e-Aam (Hall of Public Audience) with its beautiful marble pillars.
Ornate Entry
All the buildings around the various courtyards are intricately decorated.
Mirrored Rooms
The Diwan-e-Khas (Hall of Private Audiences) is the best known part of the fort: …
Mirrored Wall Detail
… the elaborate decorations were crafted using glass imported from Belgium.
“Mirrored” Sheesh Mahal
Domes on the Hill
The palace rises up four levels, each around a courtyard.
Latticed Views
Ornate lattices look out over the upper courtyard and the hills behind.
Door Detail
Painted Wall Detail
Upper Courtyard Garden
There are new delights at every turn.
Rooftop Rooms
Women in a Window
Guards at Ease
I never tired of wandering around these buildings, admiring the craftsmanship and the architecture, and taking impromptu portraits of people in the various nooks and crannies.
But, I had an appointed time to reconnect with my group, and we would be setting off to somewhere equally intriguing.
That’s the thing about India: every palace is more beautiful than the last, and every corner is another adventure.
Until next time,
Namaste!
