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Old and New
Every nook and cranny in Greece is layered in history. For example: in the middle of Nafplio Harbour there is a beautiful, historic castle – Bourtzi Castle Fortress – built by the Venetians between 1471 and 1473. On ancient Mount Arachnaion in the background, controversial wind turbines generate energy for the Peloponnese region.
I loved everything about Greece.
I love Greek coffee and food. I loved the landscape and the architecture, and the history layered within it all. I loved how the place names were both exotic and vaguely familiar from long-forgotten school lessons.
And, I loved the variety that was in every day of the small-group tour I took part in on the mainland.
In just one morning on the Peloponnese Peninsula, we drove through the spectacular mountains and charming villages between Dimitsana (see: Mountain Villages and Hidden Monasteries) and Nafplion (Nafplio), where we visited a family run distillery to learn about the making of ouzo, that anise-infused quintessentially Greek liquor. An alcohol taste-testing at ten in the morning is a risky business: I bought more than one bottle!
We were given a few free hours to explore the sites, streets, shops, and eateries of Nafplio, a delightful seaside town that was once the capital of Greece. Then, back in our bus to continue across the Peloponnese to ancient Epidaurus (Epidavros), the most famous healing centre of the Ancient Greek and Roman world. There, we had a locally guided tour of the museum and the magnificent UNESCO-listed third-century theatre.
Our last stop of the day before continuing to Athens was at the Corinth Canal. First conceived of in the 7th century BCE, and finally completed and opened in 1893, this 6.4 km (4.0 mile) cleft through the Isthmus of Corinth is interesting, but too narrow to be of much practical value today.
Do join me:
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Morning in Dimitsana
I was enchanted by the mountain village of Dimitsana: the view from my balcony was mesmerising. (iPhone12Pro)
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Scenes from a Bus : Argos Crossroads
Our morning trip takes us through dramatic mountains and attractive villages. (iPhone12Pro)
The Owner of the Karonis Distillery
Just outside of Nafplio, fifth-generation distiller Yiannis Karonis welcomes us to his property. He introduces us to the process of distilling alcohol from grapes in large copper vats, …
Dried Angelica
… and shows us some of the fruits, herbs, and spices that go into the making of ouzo, tsipouro (raki), and specialty Greek liqueurs.
In the Karonis Distillery Museum
The family-owned Karonis Distillery first opened in 1869 – and has collected some historic memorabilia along the way.
Keys to the Safe
I love these old keys – they have such character!
Bell Tower
After the Venetian Bourtzi Castle Fortress in Nafplio Harbour, my first sighting in the city itself was the bell tower of the Orthodox Church of Panagia. In Medieval and Modern Greek, Panagia is one of the affectionate titles for Mary; this church is devoted to the Presentation of Virgin Mary. The church itself dates the the 15th century, and was significantly changed during the second Venetian occupation (around 1700), the bell tower was added in 1907.
Statue of King Otto
King Otto was a young Bavarian Prince who reigned over the newly-independent Kingdom of Greece from 1832 until he was deposed in 1862. This bronze statue in Nafplio’s Trion Navarchon Square was created by Florinian artist Nikolaos Dogoulis (1937 – 2013).
Palamidi Fortress
Built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, this baroque fort has commanding views over the Argolic Gulf, the city of Nafplio, and the surrounding countryside. In spite of that, it was captured by the Ottomans in 1715.
Old Doorway
Some of the buildings around town are showing their age.
Archimandrite Christoforos Kokinis
You are never far from a reminder of the Orthodox faith. An archimandrite is the superior of a large monastery or group of monasteries.
Nafplion Housefronts
Pensiones
The cobbled streets and laneways are a delight to wander.
Kokkinou Steps
It is easy to get your exercise!
Ottoman Fountain
There is a surprise around every corner.
Colourful Cloths
The streets are lined with cheerful restaurants, …
Stylised Ancient Greek Horse
… clothing boutiques, and arts and craft stores.
Coffee Pot
I stopped in a gorgeous jewellery boutique and bought myself a pair of earrings inscribed with a Greek love poem in elegant calligraphy. Then, it was definitely time for a Greek coffee and some lunch. (iPhone12Pro)
A Deconstructed Falafel with Bulgur Sokaki (“Back Alley”)
Fresh and delicious! (iPhone12Pro)
Waterfront Musings
The waterfront is serene in the midday sun; Bourtzi Castle floats off on the other side of the harbour. (iPhone12Pro)
Local Guide
Just half an hour later, we were on the other side of the peninsula at Epidaurus to meet our local guide.
Medicinal Scripts and Potions in Ancient Greek
UNESCO touts the Sanctuary of Asklepios at Epidaurus as a testament to the healing cults of the Ancient World and the turning-point in terms of emergence of scientific medicine. The stone tablets recovered around the site are effectively medicinal treatment plans. (iPhone12Pro)
Draping Fabric in Marble
The Archaeological Museum of Epidaurus is one of the oldest museums of ancient Greek architecture. I was allowed my phone inside, but not my cameras. (iPhone12Pro)
Metal Tools
Originally, the site had major religious importance in the cult of Asclepius. Over time, practitioners began using herbs, cleansing rituals, and other techniques that transformed treatments from divine to more scientific. (iPhone12Pro)
Theatre Of Epidaurus
The striking Theatre of Epidaurus … is renowned for its perfect architectural proportions and exemplary acoustics.
The Corinth Canal
Our last stop on the Peloponnese was at the rather impressive canal that joins the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea with the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea.
From ouzo to earrings, from mountain villages to coastal cities, from modern boutiques and trendy cafés to ancient healing spas … Talk about variety!
Until next time,
Happy Travels!
Photos: 17September2022
Great pictures
Travel Agent?
Thanks, Perin!
I was on an Intrepid tour (https://www.intrepidtravel.com/en/greece).