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Red Rocks and Emerald Waters
These are the colours of the Far South Coast of New South Wales, Australia – or at least they are when there are not fires raging across the land, filling the skies with smoke.
Once upon a time, our waters were sapphire blue, emerald green, and foaming diamond white. Once upon a time, our sands were pristine shades of white and yellow. Once upon a time, we could walk among the she-oaks, the wattle, the Banksia, and the eucalypts.
Once upon a time … before our spectacular conflagrations razed communities, turned the air brown and the sun red, and coated our beaches in ash … before we made international headlines with the apocalyptic destruction of swathes of bushland by firestorms which chewed up animal habitats and pushed species to the brink of extinction.
As I write this: “All parks in South Coast [NSW] are closed due to active bushfires”. Kosciuszko National Park – just inland from me, and where I normally hide out this time of year – still has 26 active fire-alerts in place. My local branch of the National Parks Association of NSW has cancelled their next bimonthly bush walk.
We will be a long time counting costs and trying to recover.
To take a break from the smoke-filled skies and to cheer myself up, I’m visiting photos I’ve taken in the past: on two walks in the Bournda National Park. This 2,655-hectare (6,560-acre) reserve boasts a magnificent coastline and three bodies of water: a fresh lake, a salt lake, and a brackish lagoon. It is just a short drive north of me, but I’ve only ever visited when my walking-group organises something along sections of the tracks (e.g.: Kangarutha Track).
So far this year, this particular park has been spared direct bush-fire damage, but like others in the region, it is currently closed to all visitors because of the risks.
But, once upon a time, we walked there, and enjoyed it immensely.
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Checking the Map
I love the NPA bushwalking program! It allows me to be rather lazy: someone else has done the planning and is carrying safety- and first-aide equipment. (iPhone5)
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Guinea Flower – Hibbertia Obtusifolia
Walking with a group can be slow, but it allows stops to appreciate small sightings along the track.
Guinea Flower – Hibbertia Obtusifolia
There is a wealth of knowledge and interests within the group of walkers: sometimes people even know the names of things!
White Sands
The white sands and rocks here are so beautiful that they were once quarried nearby.
White Sands – Green Trees
The pale sands provide an attractive foil for the trees that cling to the windy cliff top.
Waves in the Inlet
The waters here have worked their way into gaps and crevices, carving inlets into the cliffs.
Lunch on White Rock
White Rock is the half-way mark if you are walking the whole Kangarutha Track – as we did on a different visit to the park (see: Kangarutha Track). On this occasion, however, we were walking out-and-back to one of the several access spots, making White Rock our end-point.
On the Rocks
There are great views from White Rock: including whales off shore, raptors overhead, and roiling waters below.
Almost Abstract: Grass atop White Rock
Grass in the Crevices
Colours and patterns are all around as hardy grasses cling to inhospitable grounds.
Burned Out Car
This is the land that fire built: natural and man-made fire; even in a good season, there are reminders everywhere.
Trail Sign
Much of the Kangarutha Track is steep, uneven, and close to cliffs – giving it a difficulty rating of 3-4. The access points, however, are graded fire trails which are a pleasure to stroll (Phone5).
Looking towards Bournda Island
The Sandy Creek Loop Track further south in the park takes in a completely different environment!
Photographer Overlooking Sandy Creek
Mangroves make for tidal filters between the Pacific Ocean, Bournda Lagoon, and Sandy Creek.
Walking through the Tea-Trees
Apparently, Bournda means ‘place of tea tree and kangaroos’: we spent much of our walk lacing in and out of Myrtaceae – commonly known as paperbarks, honey-myrtles, or tea-trees.
Sandy Creek
Following the six kilometre loop up and down over rough terrain, we are regularly rewarded with views of Sandy Creek.
Almost Abstract : Sandy Creek
The crystal clear waters of the creek are like an impressionist painting.
Sandy Creek
Pacific through the Trees
Looping around Bournda Lagoon, we once again get views over the Pacific, …
Sapphire Waters
… and over the beautiful curve of beach stretching back to the little town of Pambula.
Surfer on the Beach
Red Rocks
Iron oxide contributes to our wonderful red rocks; the brilliant blue waters give the Sapphire Coast its name.
Beach Walk
The last stretch of the walk takes us across the beach, straight into the early afternoon sun, and back to our cars.
Looking at the pictures of these walks makes me realise how much cabin-fever I am feeling. I haven’t seen the sun without its red smoke-filter in weeks, and the ebb and flow of ash and smoke in the air has made exercise difficult.
I can only hope that the powers-that-be will take better care of our landscape once these fires finally loosen their grip.
I can’t wait to get our parks back!
Happy Walking.
