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Terraces
The ridges that skirt the Kathmandu Valley between Nagarkot and Sankhu provide panoramic views over lushly planted terraces, ancient Newari villages, and the foothills of the Himalayas.
I always feel like I’m finally getting into the rhythm of a walk when it is about to finish!
I suspect that this is an illusion, as it doesn’t matter if the walk takes four hours or four days.
It was the final leg of an “easy” four-day trek around the Eastern Rim of the Kathmandu Valley. I had organised the walk with local guide Angfula Sherpa, and although he had made allowances for the fact that neither I nor my walking-companion were particularly young, fit, or spry, it didn’t feel very easy!
Still, on day four, I was sad that it was coming to an end.
In beautiful spring weather, we had walked a good 16km (10 miles) from Dhulikhel (1550 m – 5085 ft) to Nagarkot (2175 m – 7136 ft) the day before (see: Kathmandu Valley Part 4). The altitude gain of over 600 meters (much more if you count the ups-and-downs) had exhausted me, and after a great meal I was looking forward to bed. Accommodation has improved markedly since had I first trekked in Nepal many years ago, but even so, most places have no central heating, and our rooms at the Stupa View Resort were frigid! It was only thanks to the hot-water bottles that the staff managed to find that I was able to relax my aching muscles and collapse into sleep.
We started our next day in Nagarkot without the views of the Himalayas that the village is known for; the weather conspired against us, and we spent part of our morning getting in and out of rain gear as we walked through a pine forest shrouded in mist, drizzle, and outright rain.
But, it was downhill, and mostly soft underfoot.
Before long, we made our way out of the forest and into better weather, and into terraces planted with grain, potatoes, and mustard. With our arms swinging and our feet finding their pace, we walked down towards the Newari town of Sankhu (1382 m – 4534 ft), stopping en route for lunch at a restaurant that wasn’t officially open and that only an experienced guide would ever have found.
A vehicle met us in Sankhu, and drove us the hour back to Kathmandu – a world away ….
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Angfula on the Track
We walked down from Nagarkot, out of the trees and rain, and onto a track over the terraced hills.
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Earthquake Damage
In the villages, the buildings we pass still show extensive damage …
Brick Ruins
… from the April 2015 Gorkha earthquake which killed about 9,000 people.
Sun on the Terraces
The amount of work that goes into tending the narrow terraces is mind-boggling.
Gathering the Grain
Using head straps, women carry large loads through the fields.
Child Playing at a Hindu Shrine
Hindu and Buddhist shrines are dotted all around the Kathmandu Valley. A boy playing – with what appears to be a pretend gun – seems in odd juxtaposition with this linga, an abstract representation of the Hindu deity Shiva.
Farmhouses and Terraces
As we drop down in altitude, grains give way to potato and mustard. Crops are planted in rotation to make the best of the short growing season.
Mustard Flowers
The mustard is in bloom, …
Potato Flowers
… as are the potatoes.
Working the Fields
The Women of the House
In spite of earthquake-damage to their buildings, this delightful Nepali family were able to produce a wonderful lunch for us.
Young Woman
I had a long chat with the daughter of the house, who – two weeks after our visit – was heading to Australia to study at university. Most Nepali I spoke to have relatives working or studying overseas: about 8.5% of the the country’s population lives outside its borders.
Potato Furrows
Food stretches out all around us: Nepal is still an agricultural country, with over two-thirds of the population directly engaged in farming.
On the Road
Nepal is also among the least developed countries in the world, with a severe lack of skilled labor. We could see evidence of this in the roads we travelled and the buildings we passed.
Woman in Green
About one-quarter of Nepalese live below the poverty line and, no matter their age – like this old woman carrying her greens – most are engaged in manual labour.
Sorting Potatoes
So much of the labour seems rather informal: at the side of the road, these people were sorting potatoes for bagging and sale.
Sankhu
It is a bittersweet moment when we can finally see the end of our walk: the ancient Newari town of Sankhu, where we will meet our car back to Kathmandu.
Swasthani Mata Temple
On the way into Sankhu, we cross the waters of the Sali Nadi, and pass through a temple dedicated to the Hindu Goddess Swasthani.
The Sali Nadi
These littered, polluted waters are sacred: during the month-long Shree Swasthani Brata Katha festival, Hindu devotees to Goddess Swasthani bathe here.
Swasthani Mata Temple
The temple itself has a unique octagonal roof.
Icon in a Niche
Everywhere you look, there are icons: coloured with candle wax and chalk, …
Icon in a Niche
… and draped in cloths and garlands.
Swasthani Mata Temple
The wonderful gold-plated octagonal roof of the temple is supported by struts carved with depictions of the Goddess Swasthani.
Hindu Priest
You will always find a priest tending a Hindu temple.
Blessings
I made sure to receive my blessing before leaving.
Hotel Room
Back in Kathmandu, my room was positively palatial – especially after the modest accommodation on our trek.
Palatial room or not, I’d rather be walking!
Like the rest of Nepal, the Kathmandu Valley is a joy to trek around.
Until next time,
Namaste!
Photos: 9March2017
Wasn’t that grand? I agree, we aren’t particularly young, fit, nor spry but that which we lack is made up with our determination. Arthritic hips be damned! They can always be replaced later. Thanks for this trip down Memory Lane.
Thanks for the company!
I’m thinking of Milford Track next year? 😉