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Sundown on the Backwaters
Could anything be more peaceful? Tourist boats bask in the late afternoon sun on Vembanad Lake and the Kavan River in Kerala, South India.
The heat; the soft chug of the motor; the sun glinting in the hazy sky and off the water; it was one of those iconic ‘Pinch me!’ moments.
I was finally on the backwaters of Kerala in south-western India.
The backwaters are a network of more than 900 km (560 mi) of waterways, stretching north-south on the Malabar Coast, between the Arabian Sea and the Western Ghats. Comprising five large lakes and several brackish lagoons linked by canals – both man made and natural – this interconnected network of waters is fed by 38 rivers whose names depend on the map you are reading. The freshwater from these rivers meets the saltwater from the Arabian Sea, making for a unique and rich ecosystem.
I had travelled down the mountains from the Cardamom Hills in the Western Ghats (see: In India’s Spice Garden) to the small hamlet of Kavanattinkara in Kottayam district with a small group. From there, a boat transported us the short distance up Vembanad Lake to our CGH Earth Coconut Lagoon resort.
This beautiful boutique resort is conscious of the local heritage: the cottages set amongst the luxuriant coconut groves were built from the remnants of relocated and reassembled old mansions – tharavads – that were once the family homes of local nobility.
The resort – which is located between the lake and a river (sometimes identified as the Kavan River) – is also environmentally aware. The lush lands around Vembanad Lake are included in a list of wetlands of international importance, and are a sanctuary for a huge variety of bird life. Coconut Lagoon is doing its best to protect the surrounding natural environment through a variety of measures.
We arrived at the resort early enough to enjoy an afternoon cruise on the waters of the lake and river before our magnificent South-Indian dinner and bedding down in rooms fit for royalty.
Come for a magical boat trip:
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View from the Bus : In the Western Ghats
We were in our bus early, and the mists were still in the trees as we drove west from Idukki and down out of the mountains. (iPhone12Pro)
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Picking Tea
I was thrilled to spot my first tea-pickers! The bus stopped briefly to allow us a quick look, but the women were a long way up the terraced hill.
Palm Trees from the Bus
The Western Ghats are lush and fertile, with a huge range of plants growing. (iPhone12Pro)
Rubber Plantation
We made another quick stop for the benefit of those who had never seen rubber trees.
Dockside in Kumarakom
We spent the middle of our day in transit, at lunch, and visiting our guide’s home, before finally swapping our bus for a river-transport in Kumarakom Village on Vembanad Lake.
Rippled Waters
It was wonderful watching the the life on the shore …
A Boat on the Backwaters
… as we chugged up the lake.
Shikaras on the Backwaters
The backwaters are known for their houseboats – which we would be boarding the next day – but shikaras: covered, open-sided wooden boats like those found on Dal Lake in Kashmir, are also common.
Welcome
When we landed at Coconut Lagoon – which is only accessible by water – we were greeted with scented bindi paste and flowers.
Backwater Boat
Late afternoon we had the opportunity for a shikara ride through the water hyacinth (Pontederia crassipes) and the water lilies (Nymphaeaceae) on the backwaters.
Golden Hour on the Kavan River
When we looked towards the lowering sun, the light changed and silhouetted the other boats on the water. (iPhone12Pro)
Lilies on the River
The water lilies (Nymphaeaceae) have closed for the day.
Tourist Boats
The water is almost choked with water hyacinth (Pontederia crassipes), a free-floating perennial originally from South America. One of the fastest-growing plants known, it is now found on every continent except Antarctica. (iPhone12Pro)
Twilight
Facing into the late afternoon sun casts a golden glow on the waters. (iPhone12Pro)
Backwater Houseboats
Kerala houseboats come in different shapes and sizes, …
Large Houseboat
… but they are closed in, with bedrooms, ensuites, a kitchen, and communal living spaces.
Chasing Sunset
The tourist shikaras and houseboats are all out on the lake to watch the sun drop in the afternoon sky.
Sundown
The colours of the afternoon changed dramatically, depending on which way we looked.
Watching Sunset
Red Sun – Black Bird
There is a beautiful calm on the water, as the sun turns red …
Birds on the Wing
… and birds swoop and circle overhead.
A Kerala Dance
Back on land after dark, we were treated to some traditional Kerala dances, … (iPhone12Pro)
Musicians in the Dining Room
… and a lot of food and music. (iPhone12Pro)
As far as introductions to the backwaters of Kerala go, it couldn’t have been more perfect! I went to sleep peacefully – full and happy – among the coconut groves.
Pictures: 28January2023
