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Across the Jordan River Valley
From Mount Nebo in Jordan’s Abarim mountains, one has extensive views over the dry and rugged landscape that is the backdrop to some ancient bible stories.
It is a truly biblical landscape.
Referenced in the Old Testament, it was on this rocky desert terrain that the Hebrew prophet, teacher, and leader Moses walked, gave sermons, and ultimately died.
Moses is considered the most important prophet in Judaism and one of the most important personages in Christianity, Islam, and other Abrahamic religions. He reputedly led his people out of slavery. He is credited with writing the Torah (the first five books of the Hebrew Bible) and is said to have received the Ten Commandments from God at Mt. Sinai. Here at Mount Nebo, God putatively granted Moses a view of the Promised Land before his death.
And what a view it is!
On a clear day, you can see across the Jordan River Valley and the Dead Sea to the Palestinian city of Hebron, and to Herodium, which is now an archaeological site named for the palace of King Herod. You can see Bethlehem and Jerusalem and Jericho; familiar names to anyone raised in the Judeo-Christian traditions. You can see Lake Tiberias, perhaps better known as the Sea of Galilee, where much of the ministry of Jesus took place. Later, the Crusaders conquered cities and built castles here (see: Shobak Montreal Castle)
You don’t have to look as far, or as far back as that, to appreciate the magnificent mosaics found here. Housed on Mount Nebo in the archaeological remains of the Byzantine Basilica Memorial Church of Moses, mosaics dating from around 530 CE feature patterns, religious symbols, plants, and animals. In the nearby town of Madaba, the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church contains an extraordinary mosaic map depicting Jerusalem and the Holy Lands that was crafted between 542 and 570 CE.
Even when looking across the almost barren, almost boundless land, it is hard to fathom the layers of time and the momentous events that have taken place here, and grown into such legends, told and retold.
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Memorial of Moses
The Franciscan Custody of the Holy Land has owned this site since 1932, so it is technically Vatican property. Over the years, extensive excavations, surveys, and preservation programs have been undertaken by archaeologists affiliated with Franciscan study institutes (see: The Memorial Church of Moses).
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Mosaic from Khirbet al-Mukhayyat (the City of Nebo)
Dated to 565 CE, this is one of the extensive mosaics found in the nearby the Church of St. George, and moved here to the Mount Nebo Memorial access area. This peacock in a grapevine medallion is one of many animals depicted, alongside portraits of the benefactors: that is John, son of Ammonius, in the top right corner.
Protecting the Excavated Church Remains
The original church here was built in the second half of the 4th century. Modern exploration of the site began in 1863. When the Franciscans took over, they built a shelter over the archaeological remains to protect them. This one was renovated between 2016 and 2019 CE.
Rolling Stone – the Fortified Door
In the forecourt, a rolling stone found nearby at Faysaliyah (Kufer Abu Badd) has been mounted. Tourists and pilgrims are everywhere: Mount Nebo was designated a Millennium 2000 pilgrimage site by the Vatican.
Across the Jordan River Valley
The Brazen Serpent
This stunning sculpture by Italian artist Giovanni Fantoni represents the serpent mentioned in the book of Numbers, entwined with the cross upon which Jesus was crucified.
Patterned Mosaic
In the northern hall of the basilica, this patterned mosaic was covering (and protecting) an earlier one, which was found about a meter below.
Central Mosaic
Tiled circa 530, the incredible Byzantine mosaic floor in the Diakonikon-Baptistery covered an area of 9 x 3 m. This central section, framed by a chain-style ornamental border, depicts hunting and pastoral scenes.
Stained Glass
There are three stained glass windows in the apse of Modern Church of Moses; the middle one shows Moses standing under the Brazen Serpent with his siblings, Aaron and Miriam.
Mosaic Sample in the Theotokos Chapel
Those Names!
A sign shows the direction to various locations in the Holy Land: Bethlehem is only 50 km (31 m) away.
Bits and Columns
Excavations and restorations continue.
The Abu Badd – The Rolling Stone
We seem to have outlasted other visitors to the site, and as we make our way back out, I get a chance to photograph that extraordinary Byzantine monastery door without people all over it!
Sculpture by Vincenzo Bianchi
Back at the site entry, I have time for a better look at the monolithic sculpture inscribed “Unus Deus, Pater Omnium, Super Omnes” (One God, The Father Of All, Above all).
‘Book of Love Among Nations’
The monument by Vincenzo Bianchi was erected in honor of the visit of Pope John-Paul II in March, 2000. The back is inscribed with author’s names.
City Street
It’s a short drive down the hill to Madaba; we get a glimpse of the shops along the way.
The Church of Saint George
Our next stop is at the Greek Orthodox Saint George’s Church in Madaba.
Saint George’s Church
Built between 1894 and 1897, it has simple lines.
Mosaic Map
The church’s simple structure is not its principal drawcard: St George is also called the Church Of The Map. This mosaic map, found in 1894 when the church was being reconstructed, was made between 542 and 570. It the largest mosaic map in the world and the oldest map of Palestine on record. About a quarter of the original two million pieces of coloured stone survive in place.
The Mosaic Map Explained
Although the map is detailed and very accurate, it can be hard for us to interpret. It was not designed as a practical road map for pilgrims, instead, it is a complex work of Christian art with layers of embodied meaning.
The Apse inside St George
“Virgin and Child”
“Mary As A Well Of Life” and “St Nicholas”
I’m guessing the mosaics and paintings of icons and saints that adorn the inside of the church are much more recent than the map floor – but I could find no information on most of them.
Rugs for Sale
After a morning of biblical history, it was nice to come back to the present, and admire the local craftsmanship.
Ceramics for Sale
Naturally, tourists are targeted, …
Nuts and Seeds for Sale
… but everyday items are available as well.
Shopkeeper
I’m happy to settle for a local smile.
The exquisite craftsmanship that went into making those intricate mosaics of the past continues now: Madaba is the hub of mosaic-making in Jordan today and is known as “The City of Mosaics”.
But, it was the history that blew me away.
Happy Travels!
Pictures: 18October2019
