Morning Portraits from the Village ~ Thar Desert, Rajasthan, India

Rajasthani mother and boy in a dark room, Thar Desert village, India

Woman and Boy
Kohl-darkened eyes shine out of murky, back-lit interiors; even the low light can’t hide the brilliant colours of mum’s turquoise sari.

With 83 people per kilometre, compared with about two and a half people per km in the Sahara, the Thar Desert – that large arid region that stretches across most of the border between India and Pakistan – is the most densely populated desert in the world.

About 85% of this desert is in India, and about 60% of that covers Rajasthan – where it is home to 40% of the state’s population.

As you would expect given the harsh climate, the HindusMuslims, Sikhs, and minority groups who live in the desert are a hardy lot. Outside of the desert cities of Jaisalmer and Bikaner, most of these people live in small, scattered villages, growing drought-tolerant crops and raising robust animals.

But, they are also known for their rich and colourful cultural traditions, including their folk music and poetry. I love the soft desert colours woven into the rugged dhurries, and the wildly vibrant colours in the saris and soft furnishings.

I also love how welcoming the people are.

I visited a number of desert communities during my stay in Rajasthan (India+desert) with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh. Granted, the villagers received a small stipend for allowing entry to our group of photography enthusiasts, but I never felt ‘in the way’ as people went about their daily lives, pausing to look at the camera with open faces.

Taking candid portraits in Northern India is such a pleasure!

Old Rajasthani Man in a yellow turban and blanket, Thar Desert village, India

Old Man at Daybreak
Mornings in the desert are cold – the village residents are well wrapped-up when we arrive for our visit.

A bedroom in a Rajasthani house, Thar Desert village, India

A Room in the House
The rooms indoors are simple but colourful, with richly decorated fabrics in true Indian style.

A pile of colourful millet, Thar Desert village, India

Ancient Millet
One of the oldest grains cultivated by man, millet (“basra” or बाजरी) is a Kharif – or monsoon – crop, grown and harvested during the rainy season.

Old Rajasthani Man and small cat in a Courtyard, Thar Desert village, India

Old Man in the Courtyard
Rural Indians – especially in the desert – work hard. But, they have also mastered the ability to sit with a stillness that – even during meditation – I struggle to achieve!

Young Rajasthani Woman and Child, Thar Desert village, India

Young Woman and Child
The young children are shy; their elders have no trouble making clear, direct, eye contact.

Rajasthani Woman in an Orange sweater, Thar Desert village, India

Woman in Orange

A Rajasthani woman

Hennaed Hands
When asked (through sign language: I speak no Hindi, and English drops off long before one reaches these villages), the self-possessed woman in the orange sweater was happy to show off her henna decorations. As far as I could find out, there had been a local wedding recently. Autumn (post harvest) is a big time for the long, loud, and extravagant wedding celebrations in Rajasthan.

Rajastani Family Group Outdoors, Thar Desert village, India

Family Group
It is still early-morning, but the Autumn sun is starting to burn off the night chill and is casting sharp shadows.

Rajasthani Woman and Child, Thar Desert village, India

Woman and Child

Rajasthani man at a village well, Thar Desert village, India

Man at the Well
Water, a precious commodity in the desert, has to be carried by bucket from the village well.

Rajasthani Woman in an Orange sweater, Thar Desert village, India

Smiles from the Woman in Orange

Woman in Green with Child

Woman in Green with Child
Back inside one of the houses, a grandmother shows off her toddler.

Young Rajasthani Woman in a dark Doorway, Thar Desert village, India

Young Woman in a Doorway

Three young Rajasthani Faces in an open Doorway Thar Desert village, India

Three Faces in the Doorway
People in India, whatever their ages, seem to just drape themselves photogenically in windows and doorways.

Three young Rajasthani Faces in an open Doorway Thar Desert village, India

Eyes Everywhere!
Of course the risk when travelling with a group, is that as soon as you have worked up to the shot you want, other people with cameras walks over, and the subjects’ eyes go everywhere.

Rajasthani Child in the Kitchen, Thar Desert village, India

Child in the Kitchen
Meanwhile, one of the young children has decided it is past his breakfast time.

Rajasthani Man holding a Child, Thar Desert village, India

Man Child and Wife
Numerous studies have looked at the place of females in Indian society, and they say that it is the ‘most dangerous [place] in which to be a girl’.

Rajasthani Man holding a Child, Thar Desert village, India

Father and his Girl
While I’m sure that this is true, it is also true that everywhere I’ve been in Northern India, I’ve seen (and photographed) proud dads with their daughters.

Shrine in the Fields, Thar Desert village, India

Shrine in the Fields
Whatever religion local people practice, their practice of it is an integral part of their daily lives.

Rajasthani Man in a Moustache, Thar Desert village, India

Man in a Moustache
It there anything more Indian than a man in a moustache? This man was our driver – his English was rudimentary, …

Green-leafed plant, Thar Desert village, India

Medicinal Plant
… and all he could tell me about this plant growing at the village boundary, was that it was medicinal.

Rajasthani Man in Red Turban, Thar Desert village, India

Man in Red Turban
When it is time for us to go, the village elders say their goodbyes …

Woman in Yellow Sari, Thar Desert village, India

Woman in Yellow Sari
… and the women go back to work.

I alway feel so privileged to have the opportunity to make portraits in these communities, and to have a small glimpse into other people’s lives.

Sign-Off-Namaste

Until next time ~

Namaste!

Photos: 10November2013

  • Karl Grobl - April 22, 2016 - 1:50 pm

    Ursula, It’s wonderful to see these images! Thanks for sharing, they bring back great memories of our trip! Always enjoy your blog posts….keep them coming! Cheers, KarlReplyCancel

    • Ursula - April 22, 2016 - 2:36 pm

      Thanks for your visit, Karl! It’s always great travelling with you. ?ReplyCancel

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