Woman and Boy Kohl-darkened eyes shine out of murky, back-lit interiors; even the low light can’t hide the brilliant colours of mum’s turquoise sari.
With 83 people per kilometre, compared with about two and a half people per km in the Sahara, the Thar Desert – that large arid region that stretches across most of the border between India and Pakistan – is the most densely populated desert in the world.
About 85% of this desert is in India, and about 60% of that covers Rajasthan – where it is home to 40% of the state’s population.
As you would expect given the harsh climate, the Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and minority groups who live in the desert are a hardy lot. Outside of the desert cities of Jaisalmer and Bikaner, most of these people live in small, scattered villages, growing drought-tolerant crops and raising robust animals.
But, they are also known for their rich and colourful cultural traditions, including their folk music and poetry. I love the soft desert colours woven into the rugged dhurries, and the wildly vibrant colours in the saris and soft furnishings.
I also love how welcoming the people are.
I visited a number of desert communities during my stay in Rajasthan (India+desert) with photographer Karl Grobl and local guide DV Singh. Granted, the villagers received a small stipend for allowing entry to our group of photography enthusiasts, but I never felt ‘in the way’ as people went about their daily lives, pausing to look at the camera with open faces.
Taking candid portraits in Northern India is such a pleasure!
Old Man at Daybreak Mornings in the desert are cold – the village residents are well wrapped-up when we arrive for our visit.
A Room in the House The rooms indoors are simple but colourful, with richly decorated fabrics in true Indian style.
Ancient Millet One of the oldest grains cultivated by man, millet (“basra” or बाजरी) is a Kharif – or monsoon – crop, grown and harvested during the rainy season.
Old Man in the Courtyard Rural Indians – especially in the desert – work hard. But, they have also mastered the ability to sit with a stillness that – even during meditation – I struggle to achieve!
Young Woman and Child The young children are shy; their elders have no trouble making clear, direct, eye contact.
Woman in Orange
Hennaed Hands When asked (through sign language: I speak no Hindi, and English drops off long before one reaches these villages), the self-possessed woman in the orange sweater was happy to show off her henna decorations. As far as I could find out, there had been a local wedding recently. Autumn (post harvest) is a big time for the long, loud, and extravagant wedding celebrations in Rajasthan.
Family Group It is still early-morning, but the Autumn sun is starting to burn off the night chill and is casting sharp shadows.
Woman and Child
Man at the Well Water, a precious commodity in the desert, has to be carried by bucket from the village well.
Smiles from the Woman in Orange
Woman in Green with Child Back inside one of the houses, a grandmother shows off her toddler.
Young Woman in a Doorway
Three Faces in the Doorway People in India, whatever their ages, seem to just drape themselves photogenically in windows and doorways.
Eyes Everywhere! Of course the risk when travelling with a group, is that as soon as you have worked up to the shot you want, other people with cameras walks over, and the subjects’ eyes go everywhere.
Child in the Kitchen Meanwhile, one of the young children has decided it is past his breakfast time.
Man Child and Wife Numerous studies have looked at the place of females in Indian society, and they say that it is the ‘most dangerous [place] in which to be a girl’.
Father and his Girl While I’m sure that this is true, it is also true that everywhere I’ve been in Northern India, I’ve seen (and photographed) proud dads with their daughters.
Shrine in the Fields Whatever religion local people practice, their practice of it is an integral part of their daily lives.
Man in a Moustache It there anything more Indian than a man in a moustache? This man was our driver – his English was rudimentary, …
Medicinal Plant … and all he could tell me about this plant growing at the village boundary, was that it was medicinal.
Man in Red Turban When it is time for us to go, the village elders say their goodbyes …
Woman in Yellow Sari … and the women go back to work.
I alway feel so privileged to have the opportunity to make portraits in these communities, and to have a small glimpse into other people’s lives.
Ursula, It’s wonderful to see these images! Thanks for sharing, they bring back great memories of our trip! Always enjoy your blog posts….keep them coming! Cheers, KarlReplyCancel
- Performing the Ganga Aarti from Dasaswamedh Ghat, Varanasi
- Buddha Head from Shwedagon Pagoda, Myanmar
- Harry Clarke Window from Dingle, Ireland
- Novice Monk Shwe Yan Pyay Monastery, Myanmar
Packets of 10 for $AU50.
Or - pick any photo from my Flickr or Wanders blog photos.
Ursula, It’s wonderful to see these images! Thanks for sharing, they bring back great memories of our trip! Always enjoy your blog posts….keep them coming! Cheers, Karl
Thanks for your visit, Karl! It’s always great travelling with you. ?