Modern Life in a Medieval Town: Cahors, France

Through a patterned window, over the red-tiled rooftops of Cahors, France.

Over the Rooftops
How lucky am I? This is the view from the room I was staying in the historic centre of medieval Cahors in the south of France.

I love how European cities have protected their historic centres.

And, I love how one doesn’t have to forgo any modern creature comforts to enjoy these old quarters!

Cahors, near Toulouse in the Occitan Region of Southern France, features an old-town centre of half-timbered houses, Renaissance windows, and narrow alleyways.

I had never heard of Cahors – although I’d been in the general region many times before (eg: Weekly Wanders Southern France). On this trip, I took the train south from Paris to visit a friend; one of the beauties of having been an Expat is having friends who live in some less-travelled corners of the world.

Cahors truly was a delight! I’ve posted before about Pont Valentré, the fortified bridge from the middle ages that has become the symbol of the city (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge) and about the beautiful St. Étienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors), which – like the bridge – is UNESCO-Heritage Listed as part of the French portion of the pilgrim paths to Santiago de Compostela.

I was staying right in the midst of it!

I was lodging in a beautifully modern, retrofitted apartment in a preserved, period-building in the medieval quarter of town. The one bedroom apartment (Bel Appartement), which is usually rented out, belongs to my friend and her partner, and is a short walk from their place.

I was impressed with the whole of the historic town, and marvelled at how all the modern conveniences were nestled into priceless old building of great heritage value.

It was autumn, and so it rained. A lot. But It was still a pleasure walking the cobbled streets among buildings that date back centuries. Join me:

Pont Valentré
First port-of-call on any walk around Cahors is the beautifully preserved bridge that pilgrims have crossed since it was opened in 1350 (see: A Pilgrim Pathway and a Medieval Bridge).

Lycée Gambetta Clock Tower
I started my wet-weather explorations early – following my interests rather than the map. The clock tower from the Gambetta boys’ high school caught my eye. I don’t know when it was built, but the building operated as a Jesuit school between 1604 and 1762 – and currently houses a mixed high school.

Place François Mitterrand
A walk to the Tourist Office (in the building in the background) takes me through the square named for France’s longest-serving president.

Léon Gambetta (1838 – 1882)
The statue of in the centre of the square is of a Cahors-born lawyer and republican politician.

Autumn Leaves

Jean-Baptiste Bessières, Duc d’Istrie (1768 – 1813)
In the park west of the square, I find another statue: this one honouring a French military leader during the French Revolutionary Wars and the Napoleonic Wars.

Southern Magnolia – Magnolia Grandiflora

Fallen Leaves

Street Art
Keeping a medieval city vibrant and relevant is a balancing act!

Medieval Street
The original building fronts hide modern interiors. (iPhone15Pro)

Rooftops
The Roman Catholic Saint-Etienne Cathedral (see: The Heart of Cahors) is the centrepiece of the old town, and visible from all around.

Cathédrale Saint-Étienne de Cahors
It dominates the narrow streets …

Inside Saint Stephen’s Cloisters
… and is well worth exploring.

Another Medieval Street (iPhone15Pro)

The Dog Fountain
You never know what you will find! In the centre of Place Alain-de-Solminihac is a fountain made in 1992 by Jean-Luc Bertrand, a stonemason in Cahors.

Square Olivier de Magny (1529 – 1561)
The town is known for its heritage half-timber houses; several face the square named for a French poet born in Cahors.

12 Rue Daurade
Possibly the most noteworthy is this one from the late 13th century.

L’Ange du Lazaretin – the Angel of the Lazaret
In nearby Place Clément-Marot, almost on the doorstep of the north portal of the cathedral, this mournful bronze sculpture by Marc Petit (1961 – ) seems to be crying in the rain for those souls sequestered in quarantine hospitals for people with infectious diseases.

Place Clément-Marot
Meanwhile, life in the rain goes on.

Arched Doorway (iPhone15Pro)

The Little Train of Cahors
A tourist train makes regular circuits with live commentary around town. Building and renovation work – under strictly monitored guidelines – goes on all around in the Rue du Château du Roi.