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Málaga Cathedral Front
Renaissance architecture (constructed between 1528 and 1782) and a modern scooter: that is Málaga, Spain – an effortless blend of the old and the new.
Málaga, the southernmost large city in Europe, sits at the crossroads of civilisations on the western shore of the Mediterranean Sea.
One of the oldest cities in Europe – and one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world – Málaga was originally founded by Phoenicians around 770 BC. It fell under the authority of Carthage in the 6th or 5th century BC. The Punic Wars (264 BC to 146 BC) put the city under Roman rule. After the falls of the Roman and Byzantine Empires, and the demise of the Visigoths, the area was conquered by the Umayyad Caliphate in 711, and it remained under Islamic control for 800 years. Today, archaeological remains and monuments from the Phoenician, Roman, Arabic, Mudéjar (a post-Islamic style that reflects its roots in Moorish taste and workmanship), and Christian eras are on display around the city.
This Andalusian port was also the birthplace of Pablo Picasso, and although the family moved away when he was ten, the city still trades on his origins there, turning his childhood home into a museum, and opening (in 2003) a museum in his honour. As one site puts it: “Málaga itself offers unique insights into the rich cultural heritage that surrounded Picasso from birth. A Roman theatre, Arab fortress and Catholic cathedral are all mere steps from the artist’s childhood home.”
No wonder, then, that the city has reinvented itself as a centre of art and history, marketing itself as a “ciudad de museos donde habite el arte” – or a “city of museums where art inhabits”. We didn’t have time for all the museums: my husband and I had only one day in the region – our floating hotel was one of the more than 220 cruise boats that dock in this port every year; a port that is conveniently close to city centre, and that has 10 quays in use for cruise ships, ferries, cargo ships and recreational boats.
We took advantage of an “included” bus and walking tour of Málaga and set off to explore the city’s rich history and to get a ‘feel’ for the place.
Join us!
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Mirador (Viewpoint) de Gibralfaro
Our tour bus takes us up a hill towards the ruins of Castillo Gibralfaro, a Moorish castle-fortress dating back to the 10th century. From here, we have a view over the Plaza de Toros de La Malagueta, the heritage-listed Málaga bullring, built in 1874 by Spanish architect Joaquín Rucoba.
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Spanish Guide
Our guide points out the sights and explains the history of the city, …
Málaga Cruise Port
… as we look over the city, and our boat – safely tied up in the cruise port.
Alcazaba and Teatro Romano
Our bus took us back into the city, to the entry to the Alcazaba.
Pigeon in the Wall
A pigeon guards its cubby hole as we ascend the path, …
Ruins of Teatro Romano
… walking up past the remnants of a 1st century BC Roman theatre, which is being restored.
About the Ruins
A perspex signboard explains the history of the Roman ruins, and the process of recovery.
The Alcazaba of Málaga
The Alcazaba, a palatial fortification built in the early 11th century by the Hammudid dynasty, is the best-preserved Moorish citadel in Spain.
Street Art: la Judería de Málaga
We walk through to the historic quarter where the Jewish community lived during the Middle Ages. The proposed site of a new synagogue was covered in murals in 2016 when the planned building project was abandoned.
Málaga Street
The Costa del Sol lives up to its sunny reputation as we meander through the charming old quarters.
Pablo Ruiz Picasso
In Plaza de la Merced, the square in front of Pablo Picasso’s family home, a life-size bronze statue sits with a pencil and paper. Tourists join him on his marble bench and take selfies.
At the Church Door
The Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol (Santiago Church) is the oldest Christian church in Málaga. Built in 1490 on the foundations of a ruined mosque, its architecture reflects its Mudejar origins. Pablo Picasso was given his full 23-word name when he was baptised here in 1881.
Look Up!
Narrow street make for an interesting skyline. The square bell tower of the Santiago Church was built in the Mudéjar style in the 16th century; the detailing is like fine lacework.
Alcazaba Palace
As we walk across Plaza Jesús el Rico, we get another view of Alcazaba Palace, high on a hill overlooking the sea.
Worker
One of the things I love about exploring cities …
Man in a Hardhat
… is watching as people go about their daily lives.
Street to Malaga Cathedral
The city’s most famous monument, Cathedral of Málaga, dominates the skyline.
Málaga Cathedral Tower
The Cathedral was built between 1528 and 1782, but only the north tower was ever finished.
Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga
From the front (West) end of the Cathedral, you can see both the finished and unfinished towers.
Frieze Detail : Málaga Cathedral
Guitarist
We enjoy a coffee in Plaza del Obispo while listening to music …
Palacio Episcopal
… and admiring the ornate buildings around us.
Calle Strachan
Málaga Cathedral
We walk along the south of the Cathedral towards the harbour …
Floss Silk Tree – Ceiba Chodatii
… and wait for our bus in the small, but exotic, garden that sits opposite the Universidad de Málaga.
Juxtapositions – Parque de Málaga
Town Hall in the Rear Window
It might be more like a Salvador Dalí than a Pablo Picasso, but I thought the distorted view of the Malaga Town Hall in a tour bus window was a fitting last image!
Called the gateway to the Costa del Sol, Malaga clearly has a lot to offer.
But, we needed to get back to our boat; lunch was calling!
Until next time,
Happy Wandering!
Photos: 17April2018
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