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Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
The Cantabrian city of Santander has some wonderful architecture. This eclectic palace was built between 1908 and 1912 on the site of an old fort on a peninsula jutting into Santander Bay. Between 1913 and 1930, it was the summer home of King Alfonso XIII of Spain. With the declaration of the Second Spanish Republic in 1931, the space was given back to the city, and still operates as a conference and meeting facility.
The little city of Santander with its sheltered natural harbour on the Bay of Biscay has a long and rich history. It is thought to have been the location of the 26 BC Roman port: Portus Victoriae Iuliobrigensium, but no definitive archaeological evidence has been found. The first documentary mention of the settlement was in 1068, although it is believed to have been inhabited much longer. By the later Middle Ages, it had become an important port for the Castile region, and was also a centre for trade with the New World, officially becoming a city in 1755.
Unfortunately, the much of the medieval city centre was razed by the Great Fire of 1941, which burned for two days and left thousands of families homeless (q.v.: My Santander).
Even so, some historical buildings remain, and walking around the edge of the old city, where it wraps itself around the Bay of Santander, is a joy – the first part of which I have documented previously (see: Art and Architecture in Santander).
I was particularly delighted to spend time on the Magdalena Peninsula, which is the site of an historic royal palace, an extensive public park, sculpture gardens, the three Cantabrian galleons which sailed in Columbus’s wake, two beaches, a lighthouse, and even a small zoo!
Join me for a lovely city walk.
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Gran Casino – Plaza de Italia
This plaza, named for the Italian legionaries who helped in the Spanish Civil War, houses the Gran Casino building, designed by Santander architect Eloy Martínez del Valle (1870 – 1939) and opened in 1916.
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Painter Enrique Gran (1928 – 1999)
On the coast walkways high above the Playa del Camello, two sheet-metal sculptures by Colombian artist Enrique Grau (1920 – 2004) depict and frame a local painter.
Calle Juan de Borbón – Península de la Magdalena
The road into the Magdalena Peninsula is stately – as befits the royalty once housed here. It is named for Juan de Borbón y Battenberg (1913 – 1993), head of the Spanish Royal House between 1941 and 1977. Those were the days of the Second Spanish Republic under General Franco, so he never actually reigned.
Parque Juegos Magdalena – Magdalena Playground
When this was the Royal Family’s summer home, the buildings in the background were the Royal Stables – designed by Santander-born architect Javier González de Riancho (1881 – 1953) to look like an English medieval village. When the palace itself was used for summer university courses, the stables were converted to house students.
Tren Turistico Peninsula de la Magdalena
A charming tourist train takes visitors around the peninsula.
En Memoria de las Víctimas del Terrorismo – In Memory of the Victims of Terrorism
In a large green space, the 2005 rusty-iron sculpture by Spanish artist Agustín Ibarrola (1930 – ) commands attention.
Parque Marino – Marine Park
Calling this a zoo – or even a mini-zoo – is a bit of a stretch, but the small collection of animals (seals, sea lions, and penguins) from Spanish territories in the New World is no doubt popular with families.
Grey Seals – Halichoerus Grypus
They are mesmerising: I spent some time watching the seals swim their laps.
Seawater Splash
The park been built into the rocks of the cliff, and pumps fresh seawater into the enclosures.
Humboldt Penguins – Spheniscus Humboldti
A pair of South American penguins made an appearance …
South American Sea Lions – Otaria Flavescens
… and the sea lions lolled around, doing very little.
Museo El Hombre y la Mar – Man and the Sea Museum
Rather a grand title for a small area! I’m not entirely sure if this is a replica of La Balsa, or the actual raft built by Santander-born sailor, scientist, and adventurer, Vital Alsar Ramirez (1933 – 2020). After reading about the Kon-Tiki expedition, he was determined to duplicate it. In 1970, he and this raft sailed 161 days and 13,800 kilometres (8,600 miles) from Ecuador to Australia.
Mermaid Figurehead from the Marigalante
The museum houses three full-size replicas of Christopher Columbus’ caravels. In 1977, Ramirez sailed these ships across the Atlantic Ocean in celebration of the original 1492 – 1493 voyage.
La Isla de Mouro – Mouro Island
The views from the peninsula are beautiful – in all directions.
Palacio de la Magdalena – Magdalena Palace
My walk – clockwise around the peninsula – brings me to the sprawling T-shaped royal summer residence, designed by local architects Javier González de Riancho and Gonzalo Bringas Vega (1880 – 1943). The design blends French, English, and local influences in honour of Victoria Eugenie of Battenberg (1887 – 1969), Queen Consort, wife of King Alfonso XIII of Spain, and granddaughter of of Queen Victoria of the United Kingdom.
El Coloso
The lawns around the palace are dotted with sculptures, like this one …
The Colossus
… in granite by contemporary Spanish artist Francisco Leiro Lois (1957 – ).
ATIOS
Another granite piece installed as part of the “Sculpture 88” exhibition, is this piece by Manuel Paz Mouta (1957 – ). In the background, the metallic piece called Untitled by Tom Carr (1956 – ) is commonly referred to as Tela de Araña or ‘Cobweb’.
Los Niños de Cantabria a Félix – Félix’s Cantabrian Children
Felix Rodriguez de la Fuente (1928 – 1980) was a Spanish naturalist and broadcaster best known for his TV show El Hombre y la Tierra – Man and Earth.
Fuente y Humilladero de la Virgen del Mar – Fountain and Shrine of the Virgin of the Sea
Off the peninsula and back on the Queen Victoria Avenue, Spain’s Catholicism is on prominent display, …
Iglesia San Antonio (Padres Capuchinos) – Church of San Antonio (Capuchin Fathers)
… and churches are everywhere around the city.
Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía – Parish Church of Santa Lucía
Bell-Tower : Iglesia Parroquial de Santa Lucía
Plaza de Pedro Velarde (Plaza Porticada – Porticoed Square)
After the Great Fire of 1941, Santander needed extensive rebuilding. Inspired by the 18th century customs office which was destroyed in the fire, architects Javier González de Riancho, Rafael Huidobro, and Valentín del Noval designed this square in neoclassical Herrerian style. Pedro Velarde, for whom the square is named, was a Cantabrian hero of the Spanish War of Independence.
Catedral de Santander – Santander Cathedral
The Plaza Porticada is made up of two buildings. Through the gap between them, we can see Santander’s Gothic cathedral, more properly known as Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción de Santander, or “Cathedral Basilica of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary of Santander”.
Parroquia Nuestra Señora de la Anunciación – Our Lady of the Annunciation Parish
In the other direction, another church.
Casa Consistorial de Santander – Santander City Council
The town hall building was started in 1897, and was expanded between 1963 and 1967. It is described as being modernist and eclectic in style.
The Ingenious Knight of La Mancha
My last stop before boarding my airport shuttle was a complete change of pace! A road and pedestrian tunnel called the Passage of Pain (el Pasaje de Peña) doubles as an exhibition space. When I visited, it was decorated with children’s artworks illustrating scenes from Don Quixote. (iPhone6)
When I went to retrieve my luggage and wait for my shuttle, I was pleasantly tired. It had been a lot of walking.
But well worth it!
Until next time…
Photos: 29September2019
