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White Water at the River Bend
Rearguard Falls are magnificent! This small but beautiful waterfall is one of just two along British Columbia’s longest river. The source of the 1,375 kilometre (854 mi) long Fraser River is just 115 km (71 mi) upstream from here.
I do love a road trip!
Of course, it can be easier with two people: with the non-driver navigating, map-reading, and watching for interesting stops. I find that I need to do much more preparatory planning ahead of time when I’m travelling solo.
On my last Canadian road trip, I made a point of breaking my drives up with walks. Thanks to the greater availability of free wifi, I made extensive use of the AllTrails App, identifying several potential short walks or a single longer one daily, and setting the starting points as my Google Maps destination before leaving my overnight accommodation.
Of course, if I had access to local advice, I’d make use of that as well.
After spending a couple of nights in Jasper, Alberta (see: A Day in the Maligne Valley), I was heading west. The first leg – to Prince George, British Columbia – was four hours of driving time, allowing me plenty of late-spring daylight for exploration along the way.
An hour into my morning drive, the information centre at Mount Robson came into sight. I was ready for a coffee, and pulled into the parking lot – just ahead of three large tour buses. Unfortunately, the centre had no power: therefore, no lights, no wifi, and no coffee! So, being at the front of the queue didn’t help me much. But at least the restrooms were still operational.
Mount Robson is a impressive peak: the highest point in the Canadian Rockies, with a beautiful, snow-covered south face standing out behind the information centre. I know this from photos, and from previous trips along this road; on this occasion, I could barely see it! The clouds dropped down to obscure the summit, and intermittent rains made the nearby walks very wet and chancy. The Parks staff recommended Rearguard Falls as a nearby walking alternative – just 12 minutes away, but outside the enveloping rains.
It was great advice! The trail barely counts as a walk – only 0.4 km (0.46 mi) return, but the small falls are quite magnificent. One of only two waterfalls on BC’s long and winding Fraser River, they mark the furthest that chinook salmon can swim upstream to spawn in late summer. The viewing platforms attract a lot of visitors from mid August to mid September to watch the tired fish attempt to leap up the rushing water.
I was there in late spring – so no salmon. But, one of the things that amazed me is how different the forest looked and felt around me with every passing kilometre as I descended out of the Rockies.
Do join me for a very short stroll:
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West on Highway 16
I point the car west out of Jasper, and follow the Yellowhead Pass through the Rocky Mountains. (iPhone12Pro)
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Mount Robson Visitor Centre
The inside the visitor centre was dark and quiet: they were entering their second day with no power! The top of Mount Robson was shrouded in cloud – which released light rains while I was in the centre.
Into the Woods
Not 15 minutes down the road, I stopped in the tiny Rearguard Falls Provincial Park, and set off on the short (0.3 km – 0.2 mi) walk to the eponymous falls.
Sun through the Maples
Patches of light filter through the tall trees all around me.
Leaving a Mark
Rearguard Falls
You hear the falls before you see them! Viewing platforms allow you to look over the roaring waters. (iPhone12Pro)
The Water’s Edge
The speed and force of the water is incredible! Every year in late summer, intrepid chinook salmon swim up the Fraser River to spawn; …
White Water
… only the largest and strongest of the salmon make it this far – a trip of about 1,260 kilometres (783 mi) from the Pacific Ocean. These falls mark the final barrier for all but the very hardiest.
Pleats in the Water
Spruce Against the River
My visit was in spring, so there were no salmon, but there was plenty of new growth in the surrounding trees, …
Wild Rose – Rosa Acicularis
… and many wildflowers along the path were in bloom. (iPhone12Pro)
Bunchberry Dogwood – Cornus Canadensis
These pretty little shade-loving ground covers always make me smile.
Red-Osier Dogwood – Cornus Sericea
A related – but very different looking – plant, commonly known as red twig dogwood, is a medium-to-tall upright-spreading shrub.
Dandelion in Seed
Nature’s Artworks – Insect Trails
Tall and Twisted
The twisted branches of the tall stands of western red cedar (thuja plicata) are draped with old man’s beard (usnea barbata).
Natures Artworks – Stripes and Textures
The gold dusting on the textured bark is comprised of gold dust lichens (Chrysothrix), which – like the canary in the mine shaft – are an indicator of excellent air quality.
Maples Overhead
Before I know it, I’m back at the carpark.
I could have lingered longer, but I had other walks earmarked on my AllTrails – and I still need that coffee!
Until next time,
Happy Walking!
Photos: 31May2023
