Lines and Curves and Sacred Spaces: Two Muscat Mosques, Oman

Carved marble dome, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Carved Domes
The delicately carved marble domes of the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, high on a hill in Muscat, are a magnificent example of modern Islamic architecture.

Mosques – masjed or masjid – are a prominent feature in any Islamic landscape (eg.: Jama Mosque). With their beautiful domes, their graceful arches, and their soaring minarets, these houses of Muslim worship draw attention upwards and engender admiration, reverence and calm.

During a short stay in Muscat, capital city of the Sultanate of Oman – a Muslim country on the southeastern coast of the Arabian Peninsula – I spent the morning in two of the cities largest and most beautiful mosques: the Sultan Qaboos Mosque or Grand Mosque, and the Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque.

Non-Muslim visitors (in modest dress, of course) are only welcomed into these holy places during restricted hours, but I had a local guide to maximise my time and to explain what I was seeing.

Traditionally, Islam doesn’t allow the depictions of human or animal figures in religious art, in part because of the prohibition against idolatry and the fear that people will respect or worship the creation whilst forgetting the Creator, and in part from the belief that the creation of living things is God’s prerogative as the divine musawwir (maker of forms, artist).

So, the beauty of mosques is in their architectural structures, and in the richly complex and intricate patterns that decorate them.

The typical mosque form includes ten elements (see: Rethinking the Future), comprising: domes, usually as a part the roofs and often with an oculus to let in light; arches, generally marking the entrances to buildings and rooms; muqarnas, a type of honey-combed ornamental vaulting on the underside of domes or arches, from the Arabic word ‘qarnasi ’meaning ‘intricate work’; tall minarets, often with balconies; a mihrab, a semicircular niche in the wall of a mosque which faces Mecca and marks the direction for prayers; Arabesque art; a rectangular or square hypostyle hall; courtyards; gardens; and an iwan, a rectangular hall with walls on three sides and one open side.

The decoration of mosques relies on three principle motifs: complex tessellations of geometric patterns; arabesques inspired by the curving and branching of plants; and stylised calligraphy of religious texts in Arabic.

Exploring the beautiful Indian sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, the third largest mosque in the world, and the newer marble-clad Mohammad Al-Amin Mosque, we can see all of these elements in situ.

Distant approach to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Approaching the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
On the walk up to the Grand Mosque, we get a sense of space, and can appreciate the architectural elements of the surrounding gardens, the dome, and a minaret. The mosque was built between 1994 and 2001 using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone.

The dome of the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque from the entry, Muscat Oman

Dome in the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
The beautiful filigree dome rises 50 metres (160 ft) above the floor of the main musalla or prayer hall.

Portrait: Male Omani, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oma

Omani Guide
Our guide, Said (from NTT Oman), wearing his blue and white muzzar, gives us a briefing before we go inside.

Arches inside the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Repeated Patterns 
With the minaret in the background, the arches inside the mosque are reflected in the shiny patterned floor in the foreground.

Lamps and arched ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Lanterns Above
Intricate patterns are everywhere I look – in the ceiling and the filagree lamps above …

Stained glass arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Stained Glass Arch
… and in the colours of the lead-light glass in windows.

Painted Patterned Ceiling, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Inlayed Patterned Ceiling

Omani man in a thawb, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Omani Man in a Thawb

Light and Dark

Dome and Blue Sky, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Dome and Blue Sky

Arch and Lamp, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Lamp

 Arch and Minaret, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch and Minaret

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Chandeliers in the Main Prayer Hall
The gold-plated Swarovski crystal chandelier at the centre of the prayer hall is 14 metres (46 feet) tall, and until 2007, was the largest in the world. 

Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arches and Chandeliers
A number of smaller chandeliers of the same design decorate and light the building.

People and the Mihrab, Main Prayer Hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Mihrab
The mihrab (or qibla wall) indicates the direction to the Kaaba in Mecca. The honeycomb muqarna above it symbolises the complexity of Islamic ideology.

Outdoor arch, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arch to the Outside
Delicately carved arches frame the surrounding mountains.

Holy Books, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Holy Books

Seated woman, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Woman at Rest

Arched Corridors, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Arched Corridors

Outside the prayer hall, Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque, Muscat Oman

Gardeners in the Courtyard
The main musalla or prayer hall is 74.4 by 74.4 metres (244 by 244 feet) square, and can hold over 6500 worshippers.

The Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Bright White
A short drive away, the magnificent marble-clad Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque is smaller and newer than the Grand Mosque. Sometimes called the Bahwan Mosque after its benefactors, it sits up on a hill and can be seen from all parts of the city.

Elaborate Interior, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Elaborate Interior

Omani guide with a holy book, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Guide with a Holy Book
Said shows us one of the many ornately decorated religious books at the mosque.

Filigree Lamps in the Ladies Prayer Hall, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Filigree Lamps
Men and women are separated during prayer. The Ladies Prayer Hall is empty and dimly lit when we enter.

Marble portico, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

The Riwaq
Arcades or porticos, open on at least one side, are a common element in Islamic architecture and design.

Mosque Library
Countless gilded volumes fill the shelves of library.

Portrait: two young Omani men at a library table, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Religious Students
Two of the scholars in the library are happy to take a break from their work and chat with us.

Marble minarets against a blue sky, Mohammed Al Ameen Mosque, Muscat Oman

Marble Minarets
All the columns and walls of the mosque are cladded with white Italian Carrara marble, so it shines in the morning sun. At night, the mosque is bathed in blue floodlights.

These two mosques are truly beautiful examples of Islamic architecture – and were quite a delicate contrast to the many Omani forts I later visited.

Until then,

Happy Wandering!

 

Pictures: 20October2019

  • […] HallOur first stop on a day tour was at the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (see: Sacred Spaces), where – outside prayer hours and with our heads suitably covered – we wandered around […]ReplyCancel

  • […] a day of exploring Muscat at ground level (see: Sacred Spaces and Between the Past and the Future), I had the chance to take a sunset cruise on the Arabian Sea […]ReplyCancel

  • Dhanika Ranasinghe - November 14, 2021 - 8:14 am

    Accidentally dropped into your page while looking for some photos of Al Ameen Mosque. As one of the architects heavily involved in the design & construction of the Al Ameen Mosque, I felt extremely happy to see your post, which is very accurate.

    As you have written, both Grand Mosque & Al Ameen Mosque have somewhat similar architectural language/ features. It is no wonder when both were designed by the same architect !!!ReplyCancel

    • Ursula - November 14, 2021 - 9:04 am

      Hi Dhanika,
      So lovely of you to stop in and leave a comment – how wonderful that you are involved in creating such beautiful buildings! I’m very glad you didn’t find any errors in the text – I am pretty careful. 😀ReplyCancel

  • Tesis Early Oman | geoabbasid's Blog - September 9, 2022 - 10:17 am

    […] Lines and Curves and Sacred Spaces: Two Muscat Mosques, Oman. ursulas weekly – link. […]ReplyCancel

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