.jpg)
Hindu Priest Making Offerings
Time and space have a different meaning on the banks of the river named for the Sacred Mother Ganga. Every nook and cranny along the ghats of Varanasi houses a priest or acolyte or religious ascetic, engaged in meditation or study or constructing ritual offerings.
I was already in love with India when I made my first visit to Varanasi. That magical northern city exceeded my already-high expectations and left an indelible impression.
The spiritual capital of India, Varanasi (Benares, Banaras, Kashi), sits on the left bank of the Ganga (Ganges) in the northern state of Uttar Pradesh. Dating back to the 11th century B.C, it is one of the seven sacred Hindu cities. We first arrived at the ghats, the stairs leading down to Ganges, in the dry heat of the afternoon. The air seemed to vibrate with electricity, and in this holiest part of the holiest of cities, it was easy to believe that this energy can infuse you with its special magic.
Certainly, the Varanasi ghats attract a range of people – most with lifestyles very different from my own. I found myself slowing down and musing about the nature of human existence and endeavour. As I watched people engaging in their spiritual practices, I had a visceral understanding of how different our perspectives on the world, and our place in it, really can be.
It was a long time ago now. If there is an up-side to our Covid-closed borders and seemingly endless lock-downs, it is the time to revisit old photos and relive memories.
Of course, as I’ve said before, going back to old photos is always risky! I’ve reprocessed these, as when I took them I was not using Lightroom. They were taken on an old camera that was always a bit ‘soft’ on focus, and some of my settings were questionable. But, I hope they convey something of the pulsating heat, and the magical spirit of the place.
Revisiting them certainly put a smile on my face.
.jpg)
North Indian Fields
As we ride the rails southeast from Delhi to Varanasi across the fertile Indus-Gangetic Plain, I’m reminded of how much space there still is in the second-most populous country in the world.
.jpg)
Grain Stacks
Indian agriculture is labour-intensive, employing over 40% of the country’s workforce.
Schoolgirls
By contrast to the open countryside, the streets of Varanasi are narrow and full of daily life, …
On the Ghats
… and the buildings on the ghats stretch off shoulder-to-shoulder into the hazy distance.
Boats on Assi Ghat
The ghats are haphazard, and dirty – and quite magical. Going from south to north, Assi Ghat is the first of the 88 or more.
Boats on the Ganges
The heat and the smells envelope me as I watch life unfold.
Three Boats on the Ganges
Gangamahal Ghat
The unique old buildings add to the feeling of timelessness. The Ganga Mahal (palace) was built in 1830 CE by the Narayan dynasty.
Man in a Niche : Tulsi Ghat
Every niche houses a mystic …
God in a Niche
… or a sacred shrine.
Priest Making Offerings
A bit further along, I came upon a young Hindu priest constructing the complex offerings to the Mother. We silently acknowledged each other, and he went back to his work as I watched and photographed.
Burning Incense
Flowers and Smoke
The offerings contain a number of elements – which were later explained to me by a lovely young woman in Haridwar (see: Street Scenes and Portraits).
Hindu Prayer Book
Hindu Priest
The process continued, and the candle and incense burned. The kumbh (copper pot) sits ready with sacred water from the filthy river.
Pilgrims on the Ghats
Everywhere I look, there are pilgrims and sadhus with their swags; who knows how far across India they have travelled to be here.
Candy Colours on Vaccharaja Ghat
Everyday Life
Boats tied Up
All along the cluttered waterfront, dilapidated wooden boats wait for work.
Pastel Paint
I am captivated by the colours …
Rough Wood
… and the textures.
Buffalo on the Ghat
Buffalo wander freely …
Cows on the Ghats
… and cows sit contentedly at the water’s edge.
Buffalo in the Ganges
This stretch of river near the cremation ghats is full of buffalo escaping the heat, …
Boys Splashing in the Ganges
… and the local children join them.
Ablutions
To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away your sins – making it an attractive proposition in spite of the unholy pollution of the water.
Clay Cups
This was the trip that I learned how wonderful masala chai – made with buffalo milk – truly is. Like the milk and water in this picture, it is served up in little single-use clay cups: when you finish, you smash your container on the ground.
Dog on the Ghats
They told me that the masala chai here at Maharaja Harishchandra Ghat was the best: I can’t disagree!
Shiva Shrine
I sat in the shade with my spiced tea, marvelling at the confusion of the colours …
Indian Woman in Red
… and the welcoming warmth of the smiles.
The Chai Wallah’s Daughter
Education is compulsory and free in India for children aged 6 to 14, but opportunities are still limited, depending on the class you are born into.
Revitalised by my rich tea, I continued my explorations (watch this space!).
Given the opportunity, I would go back in a shot. Magic. Just magic. People say that there is something in the air in Varanasi. Certainly, my impressions of the city have never left me.
Until next time,
‘Let it be so.’
.jpg)
[…] I was captivated: the dry heat was uplifting, the air was electric, and the people were both fascinating and welcoming (see: Life on the Ghats). […]
I arrive in Varanasi on October 9
I can’t wait to experience meeting a Hindu priest this will fulfil my life I have 5 weeks to see and pray 🙏
Good luck! Enjoy!