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Flower Seller
The flower market in Madurai, Tamil Nadu, is one of the biggest markets in India, selling all manner of flora to local and export traders.
Like other Indian cities, Madurai in the southern state of Tamil Nadu offers up some magnificent palace and temple architecture.
But, it was the life in the streets that I loved best.
I was travelling around South India with a small group. We had driven to Madurai from Thanjavur the day before, stopping to visit two old and notable Hindu temples in Tiruchirappalli on the way (see: Temples and Street Scenes).
We had another temple on our itinerary for the day ahead: the historic Arulmigu Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple, also known as Arulmigu Meenakshi Amman Thirukkovil, built in the late 12th, early 13th century. But, it was India’s Republic Day – and clearly half the local populace had the same destination in mind. The temple is a major pilgrimage destination within Tamil Shaivism traditions, and the public holiday was an auspicious day for weddings, baptisms, and just paying respects in general. In spite of our guide’s best efforts, we were looking at more than an hour in a queue before being allowed through the temple’s impressive doors.
We had already visited the city’s renowned flower market and the impressive 17th century Thirumalai Nayak Palace – both of which I loved, so I was not too disappointed when the group opted to wander and shop, rather than stand in line. I was happy to engage with locals on the street and to view some of the impressive and colourful gopurams (monumental towers) from the rooftop of a nearby shop.
Join me in the streets of Madurai.
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Mattuthavani Flower Market
All manner of flowers – mostly grown in the nearby foothills – are for sale.
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Crowd in the Market
The flower market is open 24 hours most days, with early mornings reputed to be the busiest. We arrived relatively late: around 9:30 am, but the laneways were still crowded.
Flowers for Sale
According to some reports, there are about 10 tonnes of flowers on display.
Bags of Flowers
Wikipedia put the number of growers selling their flowers in the market at about 2000 daily (see: Madurai).
Value Adding
Everywhere you look, hands are busy at work, fashioning flowers and ribbons together to make elaborate garlands.
Jasmine Garlands
Finished garlands are mostly destined to be temple offerings. The local jasmine – Madurai Malli – smells divine.
In a Market Laneway
Women with Lotus Flowers
Lotuses are another popular local offering.
Crafting the Lotus
The flower is associated with the Hindu God Vishnu and Goddess Lakshmi.
Opening the Lotus Flowers
A powerful symbol in Hinduism and Buddhism, …
A Lotus Flower
… the lotus represents purity, strength, resilience, and rebirth.
Jasmine in the Flower Stalls
Vandiyur Mariamman Teppakulam
On our way back to the centre of the city, we stopped to admire the huge, man-made Vandiyur Mariamman water tank, connected to the nearby Vaigai River with underground channels. The tank – and the temple in the middle – was built in 1645 by King Tirumala Nayaka (spellings vary).
Drying Dyed Threads
At the side of the road alongside the tank was the most extraordinary scene: …
Freshly Dyed Threads
… meters of threads intended to be woven into sari cloth were stretched out to dry. Men keep the freshly dyed threads moving, so they don’t stick together.
Kingfisher
Meanwhile, a little kingfisher watches the tank for food.
Thirumalai Nayak Palace Clocktower
Our next stop was at a palace built by King Tirumala Nayaka in 1636, using bricks excavated while digging the tank we had just visited. The clock is wrong – it is 10:30 in the morning.
Main Hall
The Thirumalai Nayak Palace (spellings vary) is elegantly beautiful. The story is that the king enlisted the help of an Italian architect. Art historians doubt this, suggesting that this fine example of Vijayanagara architecture came about because of the influence of the many Portuguese, Dutch, and other European traders, missionaries, and visiting travelers in this region at the time.
Decorated Arches
The delicate colours and detail everywhere are mind-boggling. The brick structure was finished-off with a stucco called chunnam made from shell lime mixed with egg white. This results in the glossy, smooth texture.
A Griffini-Like Creature
Painted Ceiling Detail
The ceilings of the palace are richly decorated.
Visitor to the Palace
Light and Colour
The internal pillars and external walls launch high overhead to give an open, airy feel.
Narasimhar – God of Yoga
What was the Dance Hall now houses a display of archaeological objects – some dating back to 2000 BCE. Unfortunately, the space is dark, dusty, and unkempt. It’s sad to see precious historical objects so poorly cared for.
In the Streets: Still Life Found
In the centre of town, we attempt to access the Meenakshi Amman Hindu Temple.
Entry Gate: Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple
It doesn’t look that crowded – what we didn’t realise was that police and security forces had people lining up all along the outside walls of the temple. (Phone12Pro)
Flower Seller
I amused myself by chatting with one of the many venders outside the temple. She pinned my purchase of Madurai Malli into my hair for me. (Phone12Pro)
Bride and Groom
Republic Day is an auspicious time for blessings on any event, and there were a number of wedding parties outside the temple. Looking at the elaborate garlands worn by the bride and groom, you start to understand where some of the tonnes of flowers at the market end up! (Phone12Pro)
‘Baptism’
It’s a bit like a baptism – on an auspicious day (like Republic Day) towards the end of a baby’s first year, their head is shaved and the hair given to the household God. The infant is then washed, dried, and their head covered in yellow paste. This little girl was not impressed, but her family were in a celebratory mood. (Phone12Pro)
Our next stop was at the impressive and educative Gandhi Museum, where I was reminded of Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi’s background and enormous influence on India and the broader world. It was in Madurai, in 1921, that Gandhi renounced European-style clothing and decided to wear the white loincloth that he considered symbolic of India’s poor.
I left Madurai with countless colourful impressions – as well as some new carved elephants, and some embroidered cottons. 😊
Much better than a long wait for another temple!
Photos: 26January2023
