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Face in Powder
Holi – known as the ‘festival of colours’ or the ‘festival of love’ – is a joyful occasion.
Today is Holi: the much-loved Hindu ‘festival of colours’.
In India and Nepal, Holi is celebrated for a night and a day: starting on the full-moon evening of the month of Phalguna or Phalgun on the Hindu calendar. This usually falls somewhere between the end of February and the middle of March, according to the Gregorian calendar. This year, Holi is on March 21; two years ago – when I was in Nepal as part of a photographic group with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz – it was observed on March 12.
The first written mention of Holi dates to a poem from the 4th century. Then, it was a celebration of the start of Spring, and a thanks for fertile soils and a good early harvest. Today, it also celebrates the victory of good over evil: one story is that it is a symbolic representation of a legend from Hindu mythology, with full-moon bonfires commemorating the victory of Prince Prahlada, a worshiper of Lord Vishnu, over his resentful demon-king father and demon-aunt who tried to murder him by fire.
Holi is the time to rid oneself of flaws, to end conflicts with others, and to forgive debts and grievances. But, mostly, the day is for partying and pure fun. Armed with water guns and coloured powder, people (especially – though not exclusively – young people) roam the streets in groups, covering everyone they see in colour. Many groups carry drums and other musical instruments as they sing and dance from place to place. In Nepal, Holi is a public holiday, so the streets and city squares are full of revellers.
Out doors, everyone is fair game, and it pays to wear clothing one is not attached to! The colours are meant to be water-based (traditionally, natural dyes from turmeric, neem, dhak, and kumkum; today, more commonly commercial pigments); in practice, they are messy. I had plastic covers taped over my cameras, and was wearing light-coloured clothing that I was willing to leave behind, an old scarf to protect my hair, and goggles over my glasses.
I was prepared for almost anything as we headed into the ancient Newar city-state of Bhaktapur in the Kathmandu Valley, just a short drive from our hotel in Kathmandu.
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Face-Powder in the Crowd
The town square is crowded with young Nepali looking to apply colour to anyone they find, but the mood is friendly and respectful: …
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Model in the Crowd
… a model in traditional costume (who is in the square for a formal photo-shoot) passes through the crowd untouched. This is in stark contrast with stories I have heard out of India, of visitors being roughly handled while being covered in powder.
Into the Streets of Bhaktapur
Laughing and singing, the group moves off into the old city.
Powders on the Pavers
Traditional colour are made from medicinal herbs prescribed by Āyurvedic doctors, and are thought to prevent Spring fevers and colds. They are sold in the weeks before Holi – …
Colours for Sal
… but there are plenty available on the day.
Boy with Colour on his Nose
Most of the colour I see is cheerful, …
Old Newari Woman
… but some of it is more traditional vermillion tilaka.
Wearing Colour
Groups of young people are all around, …
Pasting Colour
… happily plastering each other …
Young Woman with Face Powder
… with cheerful Holi colours.
Smile in Powder
The broad smiles are as warm as the sunny morning.
Powder Selfie
Just like young people the world over, the friends in the square pose for selfies.
Group on a Lion
Holi is a time for friends: they gather in groups around the earthquake-damaged relics in the city, …
‘Colour Gang’ in the Street
… and roam the narrow, cobbled roads; …
Like Tevye in ‘Fiddler on the Roof’
… some of them singing and dancing, accompanied by drums, flutes, and tambourines.
Friends in the Sun
Everywhere, groups of friends are giggling and laughing as they fill the streets with colour.
Powdering Faces
Holi gives young people the opportunity to test out relationships.
Blue Man
Water Spray from Above
At an intersection, people at a window high up pour water onto the group of revellers gathered below.
Face Powder and Frivolity
Crowds in the Square
Face Powder Flying
The powder goes everywhere; …
Exchanging Face Powder
… some of it even lands on its target.
‘One of Us’
Visitors to Bhaktapur are having almost as much fun as the locals.
Unlike other Hindus festivals, there are no religious requirements around Holi; people can simply relax, celebrate, and have fun. This is probably part of what makes it one of the favourite local holidays.
It was wonderful to share in the fun.
Happy Holi!
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Photos: 12March2017
