Isca Augusta – A Roman Legionary Fortress in Caerleon, South Wales

Grass growing on the Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales

The Roman Amphitheater at Caerleon, Wales
There is something serene (and surreal!) about wandering over Roman ruins that are half submerged in grassy fields. During the Middle Ages, this amphitheatre was known as King Arthur’s Round Table, and it has since featured in a number of Arthurian legends.

The expanse of the Roman Empire always astonishes me.

From Hadrian’s Wall and the Antonine Wall in Great Britain, to the southern reaches of what is now Egypt; from the Atlantic Ocean to territories west of the Mediterranean – at its largest, the Empire ruled over 5 million square kilometres (almost 2 million square miles).

But what impresses me even more that the size of their jurisdiction is the legacy that they left behind. I’ve been lucky enough to visit a number of Ancient Roman archaeological sites across Europe and into the Middle East (eg: Roman Ruins) and I’m continually amazed by the engineering prowess that led to some of those impressive structures.

Of course, you don’t maintain a territory of that size without an army.

The Roman legionary were considered the foremost fighting force in the world in their day, with historians praising their effectiveness centuries after their time. As well as being professional heavy infantryman, legionaries were expected to acculturate the conquered population and to serve as a policing force. They also built the large public works projects, such as walls, bridges, and roads – the remnants of which can still be seen across their empire.

Roman Britain was home to three permanent legionary fortresses: the best preserved of these is Isca Augusta or Isca Silurum in what is now Caerleon in South Wales. Isca was founded in 74 or 75 AD and remained the headquarters of the Legion II Augusta until at least 300 AD. It remained relatively undisturbed under the fields and town of Caerleon until full-scale excavations began in 1926. Today, the on-site National Roman Legion Museum displays some of the finds.

My husband and I visited this site many years ago, and marvelled at the immense natatio, or open-air swimming pool, and the only Roman legionary barracks still on view in Europe.

Join us for a short tour of the museum, the baths, and the grounds of the fort itself.

The Roman Empire under the Emperor Hadrian

Portrait: Model of a Roman Centurion, National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales

A Roman Centurion
Meet Rufinius Primus, a Centurion from the late first century AD. His effigy takes pride of place in the National Roman Legion Museum in Caerleon, Wales, and his mark is on some of the building stones recovered at the site. His magnificent transverse-crested helmet is one of the signs of his rank.

Rufinius Primus
Unlike legionary soldiers, Rufinius wears a mail shirt (lorica hamata). Centurions carried a vine-stick (vitis): as a symbol of authority, and to mete out corporal punishment.

A Legionary Soldier
Soldiers in the early Roman Empire wore red or undyed (off-white) woolen tunics under their armour; red was associated with blood and courage.

Legionary Shoulders
Legionary soldiers usually wore overlapping-plated body armour (lorica segmentata).

A Legionary Helmet
Equipment – especially helmets – was extremely variable, and was often handed down through families. This helmet, with the nose guard, is a style found all across the Empire.

Pottery Jug
Exhibits in the museum give a glimpse into everyday life.

Brass Pot

Roman Coins

Men in Stone
Some of the recovered items have been eroded by time.

Roman Lettering
Other stonework is like new.

Mosaic Floor Tiles
The mosaic floors typical of the era feature beautiful motifs. This 3rd century AD example is said to be from the Legion headquarters.

The Barracks
These are the only visible remains of Roman Legionary Barracks in Europe. Each of the barracks at Caerleon housed 80-100 men and featured a veranda, red-tiled roof, and greenish glass windows. Four of the original 60 housing blocks remain.

The Neighbours
Imagine having a priceless archaeological ruin in your backyard!

Exploring Caerleon
The misty rain keeps everything green!

Excavated Ruins
At the original ground level, you get a better sense of how things once were.

Entrance to the Amphitheatre

Serving Woman
A modern depiction of a server from the Roman occupation.

Roman Bath
The recovered remains of the Roman baths were fascinating: in use from around 74 AD to 287 AD, the complex contains chambers for hot and cold baths, exercise rooms, and this open-air swimming pool. The changing rooms were warmed by an underfloor heating system and lead pipes were used to transport water.

Another Roman Helmet
The enclosed bathhouse has a number of items that were found in the vicinity on display, including grooming implements and even this remarkable helmet.