Rocky Shore
The shoreline is as wild at Hot Springs Cove in Maquinna Marine Provincial Park as is it around the rest of Clayoquot Sound, BC.
Once upon a time, if you came upon Hot Springs Cove very quietly, “hippies” could be spotted under the full-moon, frolicking nude, like faeries in the woods. Isolated and wild, the cove shelters geothermal hot springs, where the waters – naturally heated to a glorious 50°C – are pumped out at a rate of over five-litres-per-second.
These hot springs, at Sharp Point on the Openit Peninsula on the rugged west coast of British Columbia’s Vancouver Island, have always been isolated. There are some small un-incorporated communities in the area, but the only access is by boat or seaplane. Traditionally Hesquiaht (Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations) territory, most of the peninsula is now part of the Maquinna Marine Provincial Park. The park, which is named for 18th century First Nations Chief Maquinna and his descendants, includes a number of Nuu-chah-nulth First Nations cultural heritage sites.
Isolated though the hot springs may be, they are far from deserted. This popular tourist attraction is only an hour and a half north-west of Tofino by motor boat, or 15 minutes by sea plane, and a number of tour companies offer daily trips: cruising the 26 nautical miles up the rugged coastline through UNESCO listed waters to the Maquinna Provincial Park and the still-popular Hot Spring Cove where people from around the world enjoy the reputedly healing waters.
Swim suits – as the Provincial Parks site makes clear – are no longer optional.
If you set off early enough (which we didn’t) there is a chance of spotting bears. The area is also home to cougar, mink and wolf – none of which we were likely to spot from our noisy, but comfortable, 30-ft aluminum cabin cruiser. Bald eagles and tufted puffins are regularly spotted and the waters are said to be full of Gray whales, orcas, and humpbacks, as well as the more common Stellar and California sea lions, dolphins and porpoises.
We packed our swimmers, towels, and some rugged water-proof shoes for the rocks, and set off.
Cleaning Fresh Fish
Tour boats and fishing boats keep the working dock down from our hotel busy. Tofino is a working town: mining, logging and, of course, fishing. The young man’s tee shirt is a reminder that we are in the Pacific Rim, and therefore in tsunami territory. I remember watching the news about the Great Alaskan Earthquake of 1964, which resulted in 131 deaths up and down this sparsely populated coastline.
Boats on the Harbour
Our boat, Close Encounters II, awaits…
Tofino Docks
… to take us out of Tofino Harbour …
Tofino Waters
… and into the Clayoquot Sound Biosphere Reserve.
Window on the Waters
Even from inside the boat, there is a good view of the magnificent coastline.
Tofino Waters
I prefer to be out in the fresh air, leaning over the rails of the boat, watching the waters go past.
Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus Leucocephalus)
If you watch carefully, you can spot Bald Eagles in the trees…
Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus Leucocephalus)
… or soaring in the air.
Skipper
Our skipper and guide keeps up a running commentary on the area, and answers any questions.
Clayoquot Sound Waters
Water, trees, mountains… and just a touch of snow in the distance.
Motors
Even with a pair of big motors…
Travelling North
… it’s about an hour and a half to Government Dock at Hot Springs Cove, …
Nasal Opening – Humpback Whale
… especially when we slow down for animal sightings, like this massive humpback whale, hiding in the navy waters.
Bald Eagle (Haliaeetus Leucocephalus) with Fish
Hot Springs Cove
We cruise past where the hot springs empty into the ocean. Unlike the old days, swim suits are no longer optional.
Changing Rooms
Aside from toilets and some changing cubicles, the actual hot spring area has been left completely undeveloped. It is, however, easily accessible from Government Dock via the well-maintained 1.2 km boardwalk.
Das Boot
There are some small communities around the area – locals get in and out by boat.
Government Dock
Our boat ties up at Government Dock for a couple of hours…
Into the Woods
… so that we can make the 30 minute walk through the Temperate Rainforest (Coastal Western Hemlock) to the hot springs.
Stump
The coastal regions of the park are home to Western Hemlock, Western Red Cedar, Amabilis Fir, Western Yellow Cedar, Sitka Spruce, Pine, Douglas Fir, Yew and Red Alder. To me, it’s just “woods”.
Boardwalk
The 1.2 km boardwalk from the dock to the hot springs is maintained with the help of planks sponsored by boats who have anchored in the cove.
Rainforest Ferns
Steam Rising
Rainwater seeps about 5 kilometres into the faults in the ancient igneous and metamorphic rocks, and is thermally heated to over 109°C before being forced back to the surface, and flowing through the rain forest …
Hot Springs Falls
… and cascading down a small cliff into a series of five natural layered rock pools: …
Nature’s Spa
… each one slightly cooler than the one above it.
Knotty Trunk
Too soon we have to make our way back to the the boat, …
Proposal
… pausing to admire an ingenious proposal. (I hope she said “Yes.”)
Coast
We head back south, rugged coastline to the east of us, nothing but water to the west between us and Japan.
Whale and Rock
We come across a number of humpback whales – who disguise themselves as barnacled rocks in the wild waters.
Rhinoceros Auklet (Cerorhinca Monocerata)
All types of sea birds fish in the rich waters.
North American River Otter (Lontra Canadensis)
A lazy otter welcomes us back to Tofino waters …
Back in Tofino
… where we dock, early evening, in time for dinner.
A walk in the woods, time on the ocean and a soak in a natural spa –
You couldn’t ask for a better day out!
Until next time –
Safe Sailing!
Great memories & beautiful photo’s
Thanks! Great day out. 😀
Great descriptive blog of the area. Nice photos too.
Thanks, David! Nice to have your visit. 😀