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On the River
Snow-capped mountains in the background, a forest dominated by drought-tolerant pinyon pines and juniper trees in the foreground, and mountain waters at our feet: this is the beautiful Eastern Sierras during a less fiery season.
For the last three weeks, fires have been raging across the Western States of the USA: in Oregon, California, and Washington millions of acres of land have been razed, more than 30 people have been killed, and thousands of homes have been lost.
I’ve been watching in horror as the images coming out of the conflagrations remind me of what we endured here in Australia at the beginning of this year, and may well be facing again soon.
It has also been personalised for me, as at least one friend was among the tens of thousands of people under evacuation orders in California. Fortunately for her, the winds shifted in time, her house was saved, and she and her animals were able to return to her home in the hills outside of Coleville, CA. But, the Slink Fire – last reported at 26,752 acres – was within two miles of the front door of her house: a place I once stayed.
It was mid-summer when I visited many years ago: July, which is rated as the hottest – but one of “the most pleasant months in Mono County”. The moisture from the winter snows had not yet been sucked out of this end of the Antelope Valley: the grass was green and the mountain flowers were out.
On our first day in the vicinity, we went on several short drives and medium hikes. We drove
into the Stanislaus National Forest, about an hour south of Coleville. There we hiked up into the Sonora Pass (elevation 9628 (2935 metres)) and onto a portion of the fabled Pacific Crest Trail in search of views and wildflowers. We drove back north in the late afternoon to explore some local mining history at the Golden Gate Stamp Mine, and then enjoyed evening views over the Eastern Sierras.
Fortunately for me, I was a bit fitter then than I am today: even the passes in California are higher than Australia’s tallest mountain! The Sonora Pass Pacific Crest Trail climbs 1,500 feet (457 metres) in the first two miles (3.2 km) before levelling out and traversing the flank of Leavitt Peak (11,569 ft – 3526 m), the highest mountain in the area. So, I used the wildflowers as a good excuse to stop and catch my breath!
Do join me:
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Appaloosa
Not far from here, there are bands of wild horses roaming in the mountains. This beauty in the lush Antelope Valley, however, is not one of those!
Side note: California has not one but three localities called “Antelope Valley”! This one, high in the Eastern Sierra Nevada Mountains, stretches from Mono County, where we are here, into neighbouring Nevada.
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View over the West Walker River
Our first stop is at a vantage point, where there are views over the farms and ranches in the Antelope Valley, and over the West Walker River as it flows towards Nevada.
Silver Lupine – Lupinus Albifrons
It is here that we are treated to our first wildflowers: the showy white-leaf bush lupine, or evergreen lupine, is native to California and Oregon.
Hairy Mule’s Ear – Wyethia Molliss
Named for their long, hairy leaves that resemble the ears of the work animals commonly used in early mining here, hairy mule’s ears are members of the sunflower family.
Mule’s Ears on the Track
Clumps of plants find a home on the dry and rocky earth …
Pine Forest
… and the tall, straight pines stretch out around us.
Small Waterfall
The waters that start with snow-melts high in the mountains rush down noisily over massive boulders in the many creeks.
Into the Woods
Our pathway takes up up over more boulders …
Alpine Meadow
… and into clearings …
Lemmon’s Rubberweed – Hymenoxys Lemmonii
… of fallen logs and alpine flowers. Also known as Lemmon’s bitterweed, Lemmon’s rubberweed is a member of the daisy family native to the western United States.
Mountain Coyote Mint – Monardella Odoratissima
As we walk up the Sonora Pass Trail, we find more unique wildflowers. Mountain beebalm or mountain pennyroyal is a perennial which grows in mountain forests and sagebrush scrub.
Skyrocket – Ipomopsis Aggregata
My favourite of the wildflowers here is a member of the phlox family commonly known as scarlet trumpet or skyrocket. Apparently it is one of the most common western wildflowers, but we didn’t see that many.
Indian Paintbrush – Castilleja
Mules Ears on the Ridge
A Walker on the Track
White Prickly Poppy – Argemone Albiflora
Another of my favourites was the widely-distributed American-native bluestem prickly poppy.
Glacial Waters
There are a number of glaciers high in these mountains, contributing rich green colours to some of the creek pools.
Post and Bush
The eastern Sierra Nevada mountains and the Great Basin are in a rain shadow, which is largely responsible for the arid climate. Winters might be cold and wet, but summers are typically hot and dry.
Forest Floor
Pine needles and pine cones litter the ground underfoot.
Golden Gate Mine
Later the same day, just a short drive out of Walker, we visited the Golden Gate Mine.
Golden Gate Mine Detail
In surprisingly good condition, this stamp mill operated from 1903 to 1939.
Golden Gate Stamp Mine
The ten-stamp mill pulverised the ore with a deafening noise that could be heard for miles.
“Joshua Hendy Iron Works”
The Joshua Hendy Iron Works was an American engineering company that was once a world leader in mining equipment.
Leaving One’s Mark
No matter where you are in the world, you find the marks of those who have gone before!
Strange Pines on the Ridge
Our last stop of the day was on a ridge nearby, …
Windswept Trees
… where the cross-winds strip the trees of moisture, and the updrafts stole my favourite fedora.
Rocks on the Ridge
Mosses and lichens colour the rocks, …
Nature’s Sculpture
… old trees are left like skeletons against the blue skies, …
Overlooking the Antelope Valley
… and the views go on forever.
Endless views …
… and endless walking possibilities!
Not today, unfortunately with ongoing fires and compromised air quality. I do wish our leaders would learn from the current catastrophic blazes and make some positive changes for the future!
I’m not holding my breath.
[…] How lucky was I to have a photography-friend with not one, but two bases in this rugged and gorgeous area! Like me, she is a fan of mountain walks and flowers, and we had timed my trip to line up with the best of the mountain blooms (see: Greener Pastures and Wildflowers). […]