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Ponies in the Rain
The Ghorepani Circuit is rocky and steep; unfortunately for us, it was also wet! (iPhone6)
“Life is a journey, not a destination.”
– Ralph Waldo Emerson, Self-Reliance
They say that getting there is half the fun and that the journey is more important than the destination.
That may well be true, but it helps to keep the destination in mind when you need the motivation to keep going on a hard slog!
We were walking around the Ghorepani Circuit in the Annapurna region of the Himalaya. This typically five-day trek is one of the easiest that Nepal has to offer.
Cautionary note: ‘easiest’ does not mean easy! I had walked the circuit before when I was younger and fitter (see: Heaven and Hard Work), but had clearly forgotten how hard it was.
I was struggling.
Mind you, it is normal for me to have difficulty on even a slight incline – and then make it up on the flats or downhill. Unfortunately, in the Himalaya, there are no flats! What was more alarming was that my husband, who was usually a slow but strong and steady walker, was also battling. Fortunately for us both, most of the other walkers in our small group – coordinated by photographer Gavin Gough under the local guidance of Angfula Sherpa – were in our general age-bracket, and no one was in a hurry.
Our walk was made more challenging and uncomfortable by a drizzling mist – or actual rain – across most of those first two days. Many times, I was so tired, wet, and uncomfortable that I relied on my old iPhone6 rather than pulling my cameras out from under their water-proof covers.
But, Nepal has to be one of my favourite places on the planet, and a hike in the Himalaya is worth the wet, the cold, and the fatigue.
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Preparing the Bags – Nayapul (2070m)
Spare a thought for the porters! As heavy as my cameras and day-pack felt, it is nothing compared to the bundle of overnight bags that the porters carry for us along the same route. Still, conditions have improved markedly, and everyone with us was equipped with proper clothing and footwear. (iPhone6)
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Toddler in the Doorway
This is one of the most popular trekking routes, and the locals are used to tourists. Even so, people watch for their doorways and windows as we pass.
Modi River
I had clear memories of the stretch alongside the river: that’s how I realised we had done the circuit the other way around last time!
The First of Many Steps!
It is always reassuring to know you are on the right track. Mind you, from this year, international visitors will not be allowed to trek without a licenced porter or guide (see: No More Solo Treks). (iPhone6)
The Group
Our trekking registration cards – complete with photos – had been duly stamped, so our little group of six visitors and two Nepali Sherpas was ready to enter the Conservation Area.
Waterfall on the Bhurung(di) River
Rivers criss-cross and tumble: fresh, foaming mountain water is everywhere.
Buildings in the Rice
The Annapurna Conservation Area was established in 1985 and seeks to balance the needs of humans – especially those who have lived here for generations – with environmental protections.
Buildings in the Terraces
Homes and gardens cling to the steep and terraced mountainside …
Rocky Valley
… and rivers rush through the rocky valley below.
Shelter on a Hill
A Wet Walk
Spring is ‘pre-monsoon’ season, and it is not meant to be rainy!
Clinging to the Hillside
Small villages like Tikhedhunga (1520m) dot our path. The infrastructure and accommodation is vastly improved since I was here last. (iPhone6)
Prayer Flags
A bridge takes us across the Bhurung Khola (River) … (iPhone6)
Over the Bhurungdi River
… and gives us a great view of the waterfalls far below. (iPhone6)
Goat
We pass plenty of livestock as we continue to make our way to our first overnight stop. (iPhone6)
Breakfast
After a welcome sleep in Ulleri (2020m), we set off early. Locals are still eating their morning breakfast and drinking their morning coffee.
White Bricks and Blue Doors
Since my first trip to Nepal, I have associated this blue with the region: it is the most common paint colour and found everywhere.
Buffalo Hoofs
We come across a group of villagers butchering and distributing parts of a slaughtered buffalo. A plastic sheet serves as an abattoir.
Blue Roofs
The path continues to rise to Banthanti …
School Children – Banthanti (2210m)
… where the children are setting off for school.
Rhododendron Arboreum
Our path takes us through a forest of oak and rhododendron. Native to the High Himalayas, the rhododendron is Nepal’s national flower.
Another Hill – Another Guesthouse
Small Waterfall – Large Boulders
Another Small Waterfall
I lost count of the waterfalls – large and small – that we passed.
Pebbles in the River
The waters are crystal clear.
The Little Hamlet of Nangge Thanti (2430m)
Always Up!
Houses in the Mists
Rough Shale Steps
Thank heavens for my hiking pole. By this stage, I could barely lift my feet!
Welcome to Ghorepani (2860m)
This is a scene I remember from the last trip: traders have long watered their ponies in Ghore (horse) Pani (water).
As we – thankfully – reached our evening accommodation and dried our socks around the fireplace, I still had the destination in mind: the next day we would climb Poon Hill (Watch this space!), from whence, if the weather cooperated, we would have stunning views over the Annapurna Range.
Once I was showered (the availability of hot running water is another improvement in the region since my last visit), and seated with a glass of wine and a bowl of surprisingly-good pasta, I was happy.
For all my grumbling along the way, it was a beautiful walk.
I’d say: “I’d do it again!” but I’m truly not sure I could.
Photos: 19-20March2017
Nice set of pictures Ursula. Can’t believe it was 6 years ago! So much has happened since. If possible, could you send me a copy of the group shot? Thanks, Kevin.
Done! It’s always great to have you on board.