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Oil Lamps and a Peacock Feather
On the night of the Māgha Pūjā full moon, a Tibetan monk and a Buddhist devotee light oil lamps against the darkness over Boudha Stupa in Kathmandu, Nepal.
Candlelight is a powerful symbol in many spiritual practices around the world.
In Christianity, the candle stands for light and the spirit of truth in the darkness of life; in Hinduism, light is a strong symbol of hope and prosperity; in Buddhism, burning candles evoke the state of impermanence and change, and represent the enlightenment of the Buddha. In some meditation practices, candle flames are used to focus attention and quiet the mind.
Candlelight is calming by its very nature. Even in secular communities, candles are lit to set an atmosphere of quiet. I always think of them this time of year as I contemplate life, while one calendar year slips into the next.
Some years ago, I was in Nepal as part of a photographic group with travel photographer Gavin Gough and photojournalist Jack Kurtz. Our principal accommodation was within a short walk of the UNESCO-listed Boudhanath (or Bouddha Stupa), one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. I took the opportunity to visit this magnificent place many times during my stay (e.g.: Prayers in the Eyes of the Buddha and Light a Candle) and never ceased to marvel at it – or at the devotion of the many pilgrims who visited at all hours of the day and night.
Our trip to Nepal was timed to take in Holi, the joyful Hindu festival of colours, which takes place on the full-moon evening of the month of Phalguna or Phalgun on the Hindu calendar (see: Joy among the Ruins).
Full moons are celebrated across many religious traditions, and that particular full moon also marked Māgha Pūjā, the second most important festival on the Theravada Buddhist calendar, and Chötrul Düchen, one of the four major observances on the Tibetan Buddhist calendar. In both cases, the dates are said to correspond with significant events in the life of the Buddha, and the rituals involve the lighting of lamps.
So, naturally, Buddhist pilgrims had come from all over to circumambulate the sacred stupa, pay their respects, offer up prayers, and light oil lamps – all under the watchful eyes of Boudhanath.
Join me in some quiet reflection as we end a year that has been extremely challenging for most of us.
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Boudhanath in the Last Sun
The eyes of the Boudha Stupa are watchful as the narrow laneways darken in the afternoon light.
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Filling Oil Lamps
In the approach to the temple entrance, trestle tables are full of burning lamps that people have lit on their way in.
Lamp Seller
People are happy to take a moment out to smile for the visitors.
Tending the Oil Lamps
The attendants keep an eye on the process, moving spent lamps for refilling.
Prayers
Once you light your lamp, you can make your prayers – for yourself or for others.
Crowd around the Stupa
In the early evening, the grounds are already crowded. Pilgrims to the stupa typically circumambulate clockwise three times while praying and chanting. Each circuit is roughly 150 metres (164 yards).
Bonfire
Sparks fly from a bonfire outside one of the side temples.
Profile in Candle Light
Although candle light plays havoc with camera settings, I love the soft glow is casts on people’s faces.
Two Women in Candle Light
Lights on the Stupa
As darkness envelopes us, the lights come on around the 36 metre-high (118 ft) stupa.
Woman Lighting Lamps
There is a steady hum of noise from the chanting pilgrims around the stupa, but the mood is quiet.
Couple Lighting Lamps
Dad Lighting Lamps
Everyone is warmly dressed against the cold of an early spring night.
Friends around the Flames
Buddhist Monk Lighting Candles
Candlelit Smile
No one seems remotely disturbed by the presence of me and my cameras.
A Peacock Feather in the Oil
The peacock represents purity and long life or immortality in Buddhism. The feathers are often used in purification ceremonies.
Lighting Lamps
Lights in his Eyes
Namaste Prayers
The Eyes of the Bouddha
There is soft illumination on the stupa, putting a mesmerising glow in those iconic eyes.
Meeting the Monk
A woman namastes one of the many monks in the surrounds. After living in Thailand for so long, I don’t pass one without doing the same.
Boudhanath under Lights
The stupa is quite beautiful with its coloured garlands and soft floodlights …
Full Moon over Boudhanath
… and the Māgha Pūjā moon rises in the background.
This year’s December full moon has just passed, and January 2021 is upon us. May you light a candle against the darkness –
Happy New Year.
Pictures: 12March2017
Happy days. Can we wind the clock back?
Mr Gough!
Delightful to see you here. Indeed, those were happier days.
I hope you are well, and stay safe and healthy.
Thanks Ursula! Fond memories of a wonderful trip with Gavin and Jack!
Thanks for your visit, Nick! I hope you guys are well.