“Fort Khejarla offers guests an enlivening experience.” India

Portrait of a Rajasthani Man in a colourful Turban, Khejarla India

Portrait of a Man in a Turban
Textured walls and colourful turbans: you don’t need to go far in India to find a photographic subject. (Khejarla, Rajasthan)

Trip Advisor gives it a good rating.

“Fort Khejarla offers guests an enlivening experience,”says the official website.

I still think of it as the hotel that tried to kill me.

Well, shock and asphyxiate me; “kill” might be a bit extreme.

I was looking forward to our stay at the heritage “resort”, Fort Khejarla Hotel, 85 km east of Jodhpur in Rajasthan. My husband and I had stayed in a couple of old palaces on an earlier tour through Northern India and had thoroughly enjoyed the experience. On this trip, I was travelling with a photographic group under the tutelage of photographer Karl Grobl and the watchful eye of local guide DV Singh.

The turrets of Fort Khejarla, Rajasthan

Khejarla Fort
Fairytale turrets rise up over the 400-year-old walls built by the Rajputs.
(iPhone 4S)

inner courtyard, Khejarla Fort, Rajasthan India

Inner Courtyard, Khejarla Fort
Morning light slants through the delicate arches and over the ancient crumbling red sandstone bricks (iPhone 4S).

I was thrilled with my room: cool marble floors, a four-poster bed all to myself, and even a sitting alcove, complete with velvet-covered antique furniture. I bounded out of the suite and crossed into the courtyard, where a shoemaker was selling his wares. I bought slippers for my absent husband and an embroidered silk jacket for myself before checking at the office for a hairdryer.

Back in my room after dinner, I slipped off my shoes and went to wash my face. The light switch zapped me. I tried to turn on the water at the sink: the taps shocked me. I called for a technician, who finally arrived in his black patent shoes and shiny blue pants. Of course, the electrically charged particles ignored him.

He turned on the shower water; I put my hand towards it and you could see the electricity arcing towards me. “Ah,” said the technician (translated by DV), “it’s because you have bare feet!”

They decided the mini-electric water-heater might be to blame, and installed me in the room next door. Not as nice, but less “shocking”.

Or so I thought.

While working on my computer, I noticed a funny smell – which I’d previously attributed to an oil burner left in the room – coming from the bathroom. The hair dryer which they had lent me was on fire, and it had attacked my waterproof plastic toiletry bag. Before long, toxic fumes were choking me, the fire was spreading, and I was despairing of anyone hearing my cries for help as I attempted to smother the flames with towels.

That I am still here clearly indicates I was eventually heard. The fire in my room was dealt with as I sat, like a limp, soot-blackened rag-doll, raspy-voiced and quite exhausted, in the courtyard outside my room.

The next room I was given was a palatial suite in the newer sections of the building. I retrieved what was left of my toiletries and finally got my shower and hair-wash before tumbling, completely worn out, into bed.

Of course, photo trips sleep in for no one. Bright and early the next morning, I was out in the streets of the modest surrounding community with my camera, making portraits wherever I could find them. Even with no voice, I had no trouble gaining consent from the friendly people of Khejarla.

Join me for a walk through town, and some street portraits – Indian style.

High school Girls, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

School Girls
It is early morning, and the light has not yet fully reached into the narrow streets. Young women in their pristine salwar kameez walk to school.

Child

“Kids wil be Kids”
Younger school children goof around when they see the camera, ….

Indian girl in school uniform, Khejarla India

Schoolgirl
… but without invitation, they line up against gates and doorways, …

Grinning schoolboy and girl in plaits, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Schoolchildren
… with their siblings …

Indian boy in school uniform, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Schoolboy
… or alone, looking boldly and clear-eyed at the lens.

Indian boy in school uniform, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Schoolboy
Around every new corner, the backgrounds, the light, and the colours change.

Portrait: Two Men on a Motorcycle Khejarla India

Two Men on a Motorcycle

Indian woman seated in her shop, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Shopkeeper
Shopkeepers wait for customers…

Indian man leaning on a shop counter, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Customer at the Counter
… and customers stop to chat.

Portrait of an Indian shopkeeper in pink, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Shopkeeper
Even though they know I’m not buying anything, they are generous with their smiles.

Scruffy Indian Child with Finger-Goggles, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Child with Finger-Goggles
Once the school-children have passed, the streets are the domain of the younger kids, …

Portrait of two young Indian children in the Street

Children in the Street
… with their cheeky faces and brightly coloured “civvies”.

Indian Man and Child in a doorway, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Man and Child

Veiled Indian Woman in a Doorway, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Woman in a Doorway

Green Chillies for sale, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Green Chillies
There is plenty of food available on the streets: fresh …

Street Food, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Street Food
… and freshly cooked. I have no idea what some of it is.

Two indian women in a Ribbon and Bead shop, Khejarla, Rajasthan

Ribbons and Beads

Portrait of a Khejarla Man in a colourful turban, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Khejarla Man

Three boys, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Three Amigos
Children are everywhere: I’m not sure why so many are out of school.

Indian Woman in the Street with firewood, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Woman in the Street
Everywhere, “life” happens in the dusty streets.

Boy swinging on a low Gate, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Boy at the Gate
The young ones are curious about the stranger.

two Men in a shop Doorway, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Men in the Doorway
Men take a break from their labour to check out the woman with the camera …

Two Indian men in discussion on the Stoop of a house , Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Discussion on the Stoop
… or just to chat with their friends and neighbours.

Shopkeeper with a cheroot,, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Shopkeeper

Three Men, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Three Men

Cows in the Street, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Cows in the Street
It wouldn’t be India unless there were cows in the dusty streets, …

Woman with a black bundle, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Woman with a Bundle
… women carrying things on their heads, …

Young girl carrying a toddler, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Child Minding
… or young children looking after their younger siblings.

Indian woman walking in front of an open doorway, Khejarla, Rajasthan India

Places to Go …
… things to do. Life goes on.

I enjoyed my time in the streets of Khejarla; it was engaging without being too “enlivening”.

Sign-Off-NamasteUntil next time ~

Namaste!

Pictures: 11Nobember2013

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