Feathers, Fur, and Face Paint: Jiwaka and Western Highlands, Papua New Guinea

Jiwaka Province Tribal Dancer
In the dense jungles of Papua New Guinea’s Western Highlands, tribal warriors are getting ready for a local sing sing. Tropical birds, cuscus paws, and shells feature heavily in the elaborate costumes. 

There are always dilemmas around preserving age-old cultural traditions.

One of the difficulties in safeguarding the unique practices and languages of the many tribal groups in Papua News Guinea is that their ritual dress relies heavily on indigenous birds, plants, and animals.

In times past, the people living in small, relatively isolated clusters in the Papua New Guinea Highlands painted their faces in wild colours and created fantastic headdresses and outfits to intimidate their enemies during the regular deadly skirmishes with neighbouring tribes. Today, these traditional outfits are reserved for the gatherings of dancing and singing known as sing sings. Even so, looking at the wonderfully elaborate and colourful costumes, you’d be forgiven for wondering how any birds or animals on the island survive.

I was travelling with photographer Karl Grobl from Jim Cline Photo Tours and a small group of photography enthusiasts. We had arrived in Mount Hagen for the annual Cultural Show, and were attending the newer, smaller Paiya Village Mini Cultural Show as a bit of a “warm up”. Because the Paiya Village Show is small, and is only ticketed by prior arrangement, it allowed us much greater access to the tribal people who had travelled in – some of them, great distances – as they painstakingly created their extravagant costumes.

With the surfeit of colours, at first I didn’t realise that many of the complex feathered headdresses (bilas) I saw included whole birds. And, with the preponderance of shell necklaces, I didn’t even see the tiny, clawed feet of the slow-moving marsupial cuscus forming the top layer of beads! Hopefully, the rest of the animal was put to good use.

Given the threat that many species are under in Papua New Guinea – especially particular parrots and birds of paradise – it is fortunate that the feathers are so expensive. It takes feathers from multiple birds to craft just one of these headdresses, but rather than making new ones for each occasion, many people attempt to deconstruct the creations and to store the feathers until the next use. To assist in this, the Wildlife Conservation Society of Papua New Guinea has created Bilas Protection Kits which they are trying to distribute as broadly as possible. Other people are working on more sustainable ways of sourcing feathers, including the use of introduced species and dying chicken feathers.

Knowing this made me feel better about enjoying the wild and wonderful adornments sported by the people of the Western Highlands and Jiwaka Provinces as they got ready for their sing sing in Paiya Village.

Man in a Feathered Headdress
We arrived in Paiya Village early: it was dark in the jungle, but already hot. The ‘ferocious’ intent of the costuming is belied by this elder’s twinkling smile and diminutive stature. Of course, because of my cultural background, I don’t feel threatened by someone whose bird wings create a profile resembling a gremlin, and whose red nose reminds me of a circus clown.

Woman in Red Feathers
These people are so comfortable within themselves – and with the camera; I, on the other hand, am distressed by the betel damage to everyone’s teeth!

Long Feathers
The headdresses (bilas) feature feathers that are extremely long.

Woman in Red Feathers

Shake your Tail Feathers!
Painstakingly crimped leaves make the tail-feathers of the costume.

Tribal Dancers – Jiwaka Province
Wide belts of beaten bark are heavily adorned with more shells, and draped strings in front make a sort of apron.

Jiwaka Shell Necklace
We are a long way from the sea, but shells are so central to Papua New Guinean culture that they were once the unit of barter. The name of the contemporary local currency, kina, is a coastal language name for the precious pearl shell that was once used for trade all across the country.

Birds of Paradise
The more you look, the more birds you see! Some of the more favoured ones come only from specific regions of the country and are very expensive – which is a good incentive to care for the headdresses carefully.

A Milliner’s Dream
Each confection is more wonderful than the last!

Tribal Warrior
Fur, feathers, and felt: tribal costumes incorporate the lot! 

Headdress (Bila) Extraordinaire!
In recent years, headdresses have have been incorporated into more modern practices and meanings, and utilise some non-traditional materials.

Jiwaka Woman
You have to be very careful with your posture and movements when wearing your bila.

Preparation
In a another area, a different tribal group are getting ready.

Making his Costume
Affixing the leaves and feathers is a painstaking process …

Man in a Mirror
… and the men are very focussed on their task.

Western Highland Warrior
The head coverings that form the base of these headdresses are stitched in the same way as the ubiquitous bilum bags, using something that looks like a tatting hook.

Young Woman in Beads and Shells

Heading into the Corral
The dancers we have been watching are ready to head into the main fair grounds and meet up with friends from other tribes and villages.

Old Uncle
One of the elders from the village we are in makes his way through the jungle …

The Garden Path
… and we head off in search of more dancers.

I hope these tribal groups can preserve their culture – and safeguard their flora and fauna at the same time.

Until next time,

Happy Travels!

Pictures: 18August2017