Faces in a Hamar Village (#2), Omo Valley Ethiopia

It is hot, and arid, and a long way from anywhere.

The harsh environment is at least part of the reason why the 16+ ethnic groups who live in the far reaches of Ethiopia’s Omo Valley, near the border with South Sudan, have been left alone to maintain their traditional lifestyles and cultural practices. 

One writer has called the Omo Valley a “cultural melting pot”, but this is misleading. They have not blended or melted: their cultures have stayed as sharply differentiated from ours – and from those of each other – as shards of coloured glass. While they are predominantly pastoralists, or agro-pastoralists, who value their livestock (mostly cattle, goats and sheep) above all else, each tribe has their individual traditions, clothing styles, and customs. More importantly, each ethnic group has its own defined territory in the Southern Nations, Nationalities, and Peoples Region (SNNPR) of Ethiopia and speaks its own language – with linguistic roots in one of three distinct language families.

The Hamar are among the most recognisable of these tribal groups: as I’ve said previously (A Visit to a Hamar Village), they are a tall and good-looking people. The women decorate their hair with ochre-butter, and wear shell-beaded goat-skin bibs for special occasions; the men wear distinctive feathered clay caps, and carry their small wooden stools/pillows with them as they go about their business – often with an AK47 slung over one shoulder; and all: men, women and children, wear multiple strands of colourful beads.

I visited the Hamar people on a number of occasions with photographer Ben McRae, as part of a small-group Piper Mackay Photo-Tour. These environmental portraits are from a village near the market town of Turmi where we participated in the “pay-per-click” photo-tourism common in the Omo Valley: the tribes here trade on their distinctive appearances to supplement their incomes.

In theory, this is a win-win system: we visitors pay for the privilege of making photographs. In practice, I found it extremely transactional: it was hard to have natural interactions with the local people when they were making sure we didn’t ‘sneak’ any unpaid shots of cows or fences. I felt like I was collecting ‘head shots’ rather than making connections or gaining any real insight into people’s lives. 

But, I tried.

Come meet some Hamar people.

I’ve left a lot of ‘background’ in my shots because I want to convey some of the dusty, hot  environment in which these people live. 

But, I don’t for a moment pretend I understand how they do it! I can only hope I left more than I took.

Until next time,

Happy Wandering!

Pictures: 16October2018