El Camino Inka – The Inca Trail, Day 1, Peru (Archives)

A Quechuan woman walking beside a pony, Inca Trail, Peru

A Woman and her Pony
A Quechuan woman follows the classic Inca Trail, built as a communication and pilgrimage route between the 1400s and 1500s, to take her wares into the Andes.

In Cusco, a woman having breakfast at our hotel was complaining about her muscle aches and pains. She had just returned from the Inca Trail, and when I said we were starting it the next day, she looked me up and down and said: “Well, I hope you are fit!” in portentous tones.

What had I let myself in for?

Before daybreak the next day, our group of six trekkers, thirteen porters, and two guides were on a bus to Ollantaytambo, the starting point. There, we bought the essentials from the local vendors: garish Machu Picchu sun-hats, bamboo walking sticks, and a supply of coca candies to supplement the Argentinean chocolate I had brought with me. We were already dressed in the ‘trekker uniform’: sturdy walking shoes, dun or khaki pants with multiple pockets and zips, and quick-dry shirts over colourful long-sleeved thermal tees. To complete the outfit, you need at least: a backpack, a drink carrier, a camera bag (I had my little Canon Ixus), and assorted jackets and/or jumpers, all attached somewhere on your person. We set off over the railway line and past the first checkpoint at Piscacucho, or Kilometer 82 (2709 m / 8888 ft), into the Machu Picchu National Park, swinging our sticks and smiling.

The smiles lasted until the first elevations and the midday rains took their toll.

The trek follows just a small part – 42 kilometers (26 miles) – of the much larger UNESCO-listed complex of roads built by the Inca throughout the Andes Mountains. The Qhapaq Ñan, as this system was known, is an extraordinary network built across one of the world’s most extreme geographical terrains.

Even though we only had to carry ‘day packs’: eight kilos of water, electrolyte drink, spare clothing, sun screen, bug repellent, toilet paper, snacks, cameras, and rain gear, you’d be surprised how quickly it starts to feel heavy!

That first morning we passed a number of people coming towards us along the trail. Had they decided to walk back after reaching Machu Picchu? No, they had succumbed to altitude sickness, and were being escorted off the track. What was particularly ominous was the fact that they were all younger than us – well, let’s be truthful; almost everyone on the track was younger than us. Altitude sickness, in its early stages takes the form of headaches (which we all suffered to a lesser or greater extent), vomiting and diarrhoea. That combined with somewhat primitive plumbing facilities, well, you don’t want to know…

When we walked it back in 2006, the trail was already strictly regulated. Only 500 people were on it at any one time: 200 tourists and guides, and 300 porters. Given that these people are divided across the three to four days it takes to walk, there are likely to be only 150 people in any particular section. As a consequence, we got to recognize some of the other trekkers, and even developed ‘friendly’ competitions between groups. Naturally, ours was the best group! We could dine-out on some of the stories of misfortunes that befell other travellers.

Starting at an elevation of 2500 metres, we walked a mere 14 kilometres that first day.

It only felt like 100!

Andes in the Clouds
The highest mountains outside of Asia, the Andes divide Peru from north to south, and command your attention wherever you are.

Man and woman in Machu Picchu hats, Peru

Machu Picchu Hats
My goodness we were brave! Big smiles and silly hats: we had no idea what was in store for us.

Porters Bundle the Packs
By industry standard, porters are limited to carrying 25-kilo loads. These bundles include our tents and bedrolls, a 4-kilo bag of personal belongings per tourist, and all the kitchen supplies.

Camino Inka – Inca Trail
A quick group photo at Piscacucho, Km 82, and we are off.

Urubamba River
The river we follow for much of our day is raging and swollen: flooding rains have washed out sections of the trail.

Vegetation
The Andes are subject to clear vertical climatic zones. This middle zone has a temperate and semi-humid (tierra templada) climate, which produces a lush and varied vegetation that fascinated me.

Prickly Pear – Opuntia Ficus-Indica Cactaceae
Cacti become more common as we wind upward into the higher reaches.

Urubamba Valley
Already we have climbed a long way up from the Urubamba River. You can just see the ruins in the valley, and the stone terraces and storage houses on the hillside across from us. We had seen ruined storehouses up close on Pinkuylluna at Ollantaytambo the day before (see: The Sacred Valley).

Our First Ruins
I believe these are the Qoriwayrachina (‘Where the Gold is Vented’) Ruins. The stonework is amazing!

Local Guide Elvis

Llaqtapata Terraces and Storehouses (2840 m) at Patallacta
The Inca civilization flourished between 1400 and 1533 CE and left extensive ruins behind.

Roger
One of our two guides gives us a run-down of the local history.

Blue-Team Porters
Meanwhile, the porters load up and set off again.

Village in the Green
Rainy season runs from November through to March, so in early April everything is lush and green.

Blooming Tree
The variety of plant life is amazing.

Succulents on the Embankment

‘Porters!’
The rule of the track is that you give way to porters. This provides a much appreciated excuse to pause on what feels like an unremittingly upward climb.

Angel’s Trumpets
Brugmansia flowers are beautiful but potentially dangerous, causing serious mental and physical reactions – or death. Shamen in the Amazon use them in controlled doses.