Colours and Characters in the Streets and Ghats of Varanasi (5), India

Old woman selling flowers, Varanasi, India

Woman Selling Flowers
The heady smell of jasmine garlands in the heat, the wild colours of everything in sight, and the crush of people all around: that is India!

India is a real experience in sensory overload.

That is true of all the places I’ve visited in the country, but especially true in Varanasi.

Varanasi – previously known as Benares, Banaras, and Kashi – is considered the spiritual capital of India. It is one of the world’s oldest continually inhabited cities, and has been an important centre of Hindu devotion and pilgrimage since ancient times (e.g.: The City of Varanasi). According to Hindu stories, the city was founded by the Shiva, ‘The Auspicious One’, one of the Hindu trinity – the Trimurti. Today, many of the the temples around the city are devoted to Shiva. The city’s location on the left bank of the Ganges, the most sacred river is in Hindu mythology, also makes it a central place for pilgrimage, death, and mourning traditions.

Varanasi is a densely packed metropolis of well over a million residents, and attracts about 2.5 million pilgrims annually. In this holy city full of temples, much of what those people are engaged in is an expression of their (predominantly) Hindu faith. That means that people selling all manners of religious paraphernalia – like colourful flowers, tika powders, and sacred strings – are everywhere. And, for the most part, all these people are willing to share the life that is lived in the streets with strangers like me, and with my cameras.

The city is a hot mess of colour and colourful characters – and a joy to explore.

Zebu cow, Varanasi Ghats, India

Cow on the Ghats
You won’t go far in India without crossing paths with one – or several – of the zebu cattle that wander freely.

Hindu paraphernalia, Varanasi Ghats, India

Still Life Found: Paraphernalia
These brass pots are kumbhs, which are used to collect water from the Mother Ganga, the sacred river. We also see bowls for mixing, jars of tika powder, flowers for offerings, and combs and mirrors so that everything goes together as it should.

Man in a red and yellow scarf, Varanasi Ghats, India

Man in a Scarf
Yellow is the colour of Lord Vishnu and red is the colour of positive concepts.

Man in a red and yellow tilaka, Varanasi Ghats, India

Man in a Tilaka
Unlike a bindi, which might be paste or a jewel, a tilaka is always paste or powder, and is usually applied for religious or spiritual reasons.

Portrait of two men, Varanasi Ghats, India

Men on the Ghats

Marigolds and other flowers in a woven basket, Varanasi Ghats, India

Marigolds and other Flowers
The offerings of flowers to the Gods signify respect and worship. Marigolds represent the sun and symbolise brightness and positive energy.

Marigolds and other flowers on a diya, Varanasi Ghats, India

Floating Candles
Diyas are small lamps with a candle surrounded by flowers that are lit for floating as a tribute to the Ganges.

Man

Preparing Offerings
Everywhere I look on the ghats of Varanasi, offerings are being carefully prepared.

Red and yellow threads, Varanasi Ghats, India

More Paraphernalia
A kautuka is a woven red-yellow coloured ritual protection thread. On the ghats there are plenty of priests offering to weave the threads together around your wrist for you and give you a blessing.

Seated sadhu in front of religious posters, Varanasi Ghats, India

Sadhu with Religious Posters
I have remarked many times …

Sadhu with tilaka and a topknot, Varanasi Ghats, India

Sadhu in a Topknot
… on how unique and different the various sadhus are!

Brass bowls of beads and tilaka powder, Varanasi, India

Beads and Saffron Powder
On the streets leading towards the ghats and the sacred river, colour is everywhere.

Bowls of rings for sale, Varanasi, India

Rings
Brass, copper, and other semi-precious metals are laid out for sale in the street; …

Hands around the jewellery in a street market, Varanasi, India

Hands around the Jewellery
… visitors to the city all want to take home a souvenir of their pilgrimage.

Shells and prayer beads for sale, Varanasi, India

Shells and Prayer Beads
The shankha, or conch, is a symbol of purity, brilliance and auspiciousness, and has a significant place in the aratis (see: Life and Death on the Ganges) that are performed on the ghats.

Men at outdoor samosa stands, Varanasi, India

Cooking Samosas
Street food is fresh, tasty, and abundant.

Sadhu walking in a Varanasi street, India

Sadhu Walking
Varanasi streets are full of people, …

People walking away in a Varanasi street, India

People in the Streets
… coming and going.

Man sitting in a crowded trinket shop, Varanasi India

Trinket Shop
Crowded shops of all types line the narrow streets.

Man selling Hindu images, Varanasi India

Seller of Religious Iconography
It is impossible to count the Gods in the Hindu pantheon, but it is easy to find models of the most popular ones.

Small Ganesha statues, Varanasi India

Lord Ganesha
As the remover of obstacles, Ganesh/a is worshiped before starting anything new. Naturally, he can be bought in many colours.

Portrait: children in a Varanasi street, India

Kids in the Market
The children are beautiful – but I have to wonder where their guardians are, and what their future opportunities might be.

Sadhu in a saffron headscarf, Varanasi street, India

Sadhu in a Saffron Headscarf

Shiva

The Trishula – Shiva’s Trident

Shakti Yoni and Shiva Nandi at a temple, Varanasi street, India

Shakti Yoni and Shiva Nandi
A yoniSanskrit for womb – is a representation of the Hindu goddess Shakti. Nandi, which means “giving delight or joy,” is the sacred bull of the god Shiva. Both are common symbols in Shaivite temples.

Wall painting of Shiva and Nandi in a Varanasi street, India

Shiva and Nandi
All around the streets, images of Shiva and his faithful mount Nandi are there to remind us we are in a city that worships Shiva as the Supreme Being.

This is just a small selection of some of the colour that adorns the streets in this deeply religious city.

Until next time, 

Pictures: 10April2010 

Your email is never published or shared. Required fields are marked *

*

*